/ Sport climbing holiday in Norway

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tpriit on 23 May 2012
We are planning a sport climbing holiday and were considering Norway. I know its a wonderful country with lots of climbing but as far as I have been able to find out, most areas seem to offer trad climbing only or only a few bolted routes. There are some bolted walls, but would it be worth looking somewhere else if we are after sport climbing only?
Could anybody recommend an area in Norway that would be good for sport climbing week? Ideally it would have lots of single and multi pitch routes between 5 to 6c. We would probably stay for 8 days and drive there so could also travel reasonable distances.

Thanks a lot.
In reply to tpriit:

This would help a lot: http://tinyurl.com/82jot6u

There are great sport routes all over Norway.


Chris
tpriit on 24 May 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Thank you Chris.
Looks like I am going to have to order the book.
BruceWee - on 24 May 2012
In reply to tpriit: Just did my first session of the year in Hell near Trondheim last night. I'm a very knackered happy bunny :)

Trondheim is probably about six hours drive from Oslo. There are sport climbing places all over this area as well as some really good bouldering. Flatanger in particular seems to be getting more popular but I think that's more hard routes at the moment.

http://www.vpg.no/Avdelinger/Produkter/Klatring/F%C3%B8rere-og-b%C3%B8ker/Klatref%C3%B8rere-innland/...

Nordie_matt - on 24 May 2012
In reply to tpriit: I have that book (climb Norway) It's not really that great as the climbs are spread over a really large geographical area. If you know where you are going try and find a local guide as you will get a lot more value for money.

If you are heading to Bergen (I got return flights from Manchester Direct to Bergen for £300 for the 2 kids, the wife and I, so pretty cheap really) then I recommend getting this:

http://www.bergen-klatreklubb.no/forere/papirforer.php [also check out the rutedatabasen on the klatreklubbs website]

Much better topo's (black & white pictures as opposed to line drawings) and a wealth of lines all in close proximity to Bergen (Around 50km is the furthermost crag)

Or you can look for a different local guide, Oslosportslager is a good place to start

http://www.oslosportslager.no/sok.aspx?q=KLATREF%C3%98RER

Hope this helps.
In reply to Nordie_matt:

That last link is really useful, cheers for that.

I'll point Wilco at it as he has been asking about Norwegian guidebooks.



Chris
Nordie_matt - on 24 May 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: No problem, if you keep an eye on oslosportslager, they usually do a GOOD sale of technical clothing and hardwear twice a year - great if you want a NÝrrona jacket for about 30% off rrp :)
tpriit on 24 May 2012
Good stuff. Thanks a lot guys. I was quite pessimistic for a while but am very excited now.
Looks like this time we go to Flatanger, Trondheim and also Romsdalen area if have enough time. And may have to come back for Bergen some other time.
We have 7 days for climbing. How would you spread that time? Would Flatanger-Trondheim be good for all that?
In addition, would it be worth renting a holiday apartment for a base in Trondheim or camp closer to crags?
In reply to tpriit:

The only thing I would say is that the Trondheim area doesn't feel very 'Norwegian' - (odd thing to say I know). It is pretty flat with lots of agriculture and no mountains!


Chris
BruceWee - on 25 May 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: To a certain extent I agree but it does give you a great base to visit lots of mountainous areas. I'm a bit biased, I love the place.
BruceWee - on 25 May 2012
In reply to tpriit: Give me a shout if you are heading over here. There's a fair sized group of us climbing regularly so we can probably show you around a bit.

In the centre of Trondhiem there are apartments but I wouldn't recommend them. Very expensive and not very nice. I think most camp sites have cabins that you can stay in and wild camping is great.

I can definitely recommend the Romsdalen area. Quite apart from the climbing just the views are an experience you'll never forget. Really nice camp sites as well.
hillman - on 25 May 2012
In reply to tpriit:
> We are planning a sport climbing holiday and were considering Norway. I know its a wonderful country with lots of climbing but as far as I have been able to find out, most areas seem to offer trad climbing only or only a few bolted routes. There are some bolted walls, but would it be worth looking somewhere else if we are after sport climbing only?
> Could anybody recommend an area in Norway that would be good for sport climbing week? Ideally it would have lots of single and multi pitch routes between 5 to 6c. We would probably stay for 8 days and drive there so could also travel reasonable distances.
>
> Thanks a lot.

As you want sport climbing rather that trad and you will be driving yourself and only 8 days (which is short) you must focus! In short, choose a few areas in southern Norway and stick to them! The driving will also eat into your climbing time, espacially for those new to each area.

The most sport climbing is developed around the larger cities, but there's also good crags in som rural areas. The Climb Norway guide pics two crags in each county through Norway's 19 counties, so it will give a good start. With just 8 days I would focus on just one the areas , either Eastern Norway (Oslo++), Southern Norway (Kristiansand, Nissedal, ++) or the the Wetern part (Stavanger or Bergen). Driving to Trondheim will cost you an extra day each direction.

Being britsh you should be accustomed to unpredicable summer weather which we also have in Norway. In Norway the weather can be quite bad in one part while other areas at the same time have good weather. The high mountains inlands makes a difference, the best weather is normally in the rain shadow behind the mountains, so check the wind direction in the weather forecasts.

* If you arrive driving through Sweden:
There's good sport climbing around Oslo and the neigbouring city Drammen. There's good local climbing guides for these areas.

* If you arrive by boat from Denmark til Kristiansand:
There's crags scattered around the coastline and more inland in this area. The local guide isn't really updated, but some info in Climb Norway and online. There's also possibilites for longer moderate sport routes in Nissedal and Setesdal (there is mainly trad routes there, but some longer sport routes exist).

*if you arrive by boat from Denmark til Stavanger:
This area has it all, from bouldering, sport routes at all levels and lengths, and trad routes up 1000 meters. There's an updated climbing guide for the area, with supplementry text in English.

If you specify more on your plans/options I could give you better info!
Nj - on 25 May 2012
In reply to tpriit:
If you are after the best sport climbing, then I would not head to mid-Norway, Hell and Romsdal are perhaps a bit harder than you are after.
The best areas are around Oslo, Bergen and Stavanger really. Loads of sport crags and decent guides.
Be aware that even though it is Norway, summer can quite hot for climbing...
In reply to hillman:

> * If you arrive driving through Sweden:

you will have just driven past all the Gothenburg and Bohuslšn crags, which seems a bit of a shame too!
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tpriit on 28 May 2012
In reply to hillman:
Sorry, I should have clarified - we no longer live in the UK but in Estonia and are most likely to take the ferry to Stockholm and drive from there. We will also have three German people flying in.
I guess everything within one day drive from Stockholm would be ok - I believe that's more-less the whole southern Norway up to Flatanger? (Although 13h to Stavanger and Bergen in one go may be a bit too much.) As it is our first time climbing in Norway a bit of a sightseeing would not hurt and if there is a particularly beautiful area with good climbing between 5+ to 7- (5 to 6c french), it would be our first choice.

Nj, you say mid-norway may be a bit hard. I have seen Hell's topos and you are right - girls probably would not find enough to do there. Are there not many easier climbs in Flatanger and Romsdal either?

How are the crags near Oslo? The crags near London where we lived in the UK were good for climbing but not really a climbing destination. Is that not the case in Oslo?

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