/ Mammut Serenity for gritstone climbing?

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Timmd on 27 May 2012


Am I likely to wear through a rope like this more quickly for gritstone cragging?

I'm guessing yes, but that it could be mitigated by how I use it. Am just wondering how people have found it durability wise?

Thanks,

Tim
ericinbristol - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Timmd:

It's a gorgeous rope that will get trashed fast by grit general cragging. Why not save it for your hardest routes?
Timmd on 27 May 2012
In reply to ericinbristol:

That's what I was suspecting people might say.

I'm not sure i'll be climbing hardest routes anymore, due to elbow problems, which is kind of a release from chasing something just out of reach as well as a loss.

Anyway... i'm after a general cragging rope for going out with friends in the sunshine to help get them more into climbing outside.

Ta,

Tim
Timmd on 27 May 2012
In reply to ericinbristol:

Would you say a Mammut Galaxy would be a better rope for general gritstone cragging?

Tim
In reply to Timmd: Do you fall off much? Do you top rope? Do you have 2nds who are beginners and hang on the rope a lot? If yes, then no. If no, then yes!

Great rope and you can use it doubled as a proper double - so would work quite well on little grit crags. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3765
Timmd on 27 May 2012
In reply to TobyA:

I've never fallen off, I might be top roping, and don't really want to be the kind of person who takes people climbing and asks them not to hang on my rope if/when they're struggling, it's probably the last thing people need.

Possibly looking like a Galaxy or similar could be a better choice, the main thing is that it's suitable for a little bit of abuse so it's a more chilled time climbing.

Tim
Morgan Woods - on 28 May 2012
In reply to Timmd:

I wouldn't worry...most grit routes are too short to do any damage to a rope.
scott titt - on 28 May 2012
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to Timmd)
>
> I wouldn't worry...most grit routes are too short to do any damage to a rope.

You are wrong, very wrong.
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> I wouldn't worry...most grit routes are too short to do any damage to a rope.

Not quite sure what height of cliff has to do with it?
The Ex-Engineer - on 28 May 2012
In reply to Timmd: After trashing the sheath of a pretty new half rope at Stanage over a decade ago on a route as innocuous and easy as Flying Buttress (due to struggling second), I now try to use the cheapest ropes possible on gritstone.

IMO the easiest way to do that is to buy a SHORT rope(s). You can then obviously go for a basic rope as well to keep the cost even lower.

To my mind, it therefore depends what length of rope you are thinking of buying. If you are thinking of just getting 25-35 metres, then I think buying a top notch single like a Serenity or a Beal Joker has some merit. You can pick up 35m of Joker (9.1mm) for 82 (http://www.facewest.co.uk/Beal-Joker.html ) however that is a hard sell when you can get 30m of DMM 10mm rope for 40 (http://www.fieldandtrek.com/dmm-shorty-rope-784299 )

It is also worth noting that you have a lot of choice in the range between a Serenity and a Galaxy (or the basic Mammut Vertex). Something like 35m of dry treated rope in the range 9.5-9.8mm would be a fantastic rope for grit, but probably a bit tricky to get hold of. The closest I've found is Joe Brown selling 20m lengths of DMM 9.8mm dry for 35 http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/dmm_prodigy_98mm_dry_short_lengths so it might be possible.

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