/ uk's best e1
its bone dry just now so no greasy hand jams in the cracks so if you ever fancied doing it nows the time.
Coronation Street at Cheddar would have to be up there, on a nice day though!..
"Best E1 in the UK...... Three pebble slab"
The Grooves (Cyrn Las) sticks in my memory. Not the most technically interesting but a real stonking mountain E1 that just keeps coming. Exposure on top pitch is fantastic.
The Grooves for me too.
The best one I've done was Cenotaph Corner. 37m of continuous bodily tension, thoughtful moves, amazing protection (except for the crux! where I ended up doing it with one 5Kn metolius zero on just two lobes and the rusty peg! urgh) and in the middle of possibly the most iconic piece of rock in the UK.
Minus One Direct is pretty good.
I thought The Groove, Gogarth, The Needle, The Old Man and An Bealach Runda were better, although it is a fairly personal thing.
Where is that route?
A good route but I thought a bit overrated myself. Loads of better E1's around!
Don't know if it's really an E1 but Magical Mystery Tour is another contender.
Aviation on Dartmoor and George in Dovedale would make my longlist.
> The best one I've done was Cenotaph Corner. 37m of continuous bodily tension, thoughtful moves, amazing protection (except for the crux! where I ended up doing it with one 5Kn metolius zero on just two lobes
Wherever did you put that?!
But yes CC is up there despote it's detractors - I remebr it more than the Grooves!
Coronation Street too
Superdirect fun but a bit eliminatey
Wish I'd done more of the Scottish ones
My nominations would be central buttres scafell, the arrow, the plum, cenotaph corner, cemetery gates, superdirect, nexus, astroll stroll (maybe - we didnt finish it!). Not done the grooves or anything in scotland. Honourable mentions to moyer's buttress, debauchery and george for being the best in the peak.
This is a good thread: I'm keeping my eye on it - I've not done enough multi-pitch E1s. There is a strong vote for The Grooves I see. Any more votes for this or others?
> >......An Bealach Runda were better......
> Where is that route?
Fairhead. It is brilliant. Does it count as the UK though?
> Fairhead. It is brilliant. Does it count as the UK though?
We are The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland so yes.
I'd maybe go with The Priest on Pabbay if that counts as Britain? It can't get much wilder than that at the grade (100m abseil in, every pitch at the grade, steep and super exposed) and the climbing is of the highest quality to boot.
If it has to be on the mainland, then maybe Minus One would get my vote for the whole experience, though really it's more of just a grand mountain day than a brilliant rock route as such. Something like Cioch grooves into Arrow Route via the Cioch and up Trophy Crack is also a blindingly good journey up a huge cliff at E1 but cheating a little given that it technically invloves more than one route.
> We are The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland so yes.
In that case my vote also goes to An Bealach Runda. Or anything else that's E1 at Fairhead, what with it being the best trad crag I've ever been to.
White Slab on Cloggy should also get onto the shortlist. I'd add to the votes for The Plum, Cenotaph Corner and The Grooves.
The Black Streak, Diabaig. Perfect rock,awesome climbing and a great setting.
> My nominations would be central buttres scafell,
Only one mention of this so far? I did it the other day, so at the forefront of my mind as the best E1 ever.
Or this one.
How do you choose between sea cliffs and mountains?
dont - you just have to do both! :)
i also really enjoyed the plum, and the top pitch of gogarth is epic! hard to argue its the best in the Uk though..
personally i didn't think aviation was all that good.
suicide wall at bosigran is pretty epic too..
also that classic benchmark E1 flying buttress direct?
> suicide wall at bosigran is pretty epic too..
You mean crap!
No mention of the Old Man yet...
Gogarth (the route) is downright poor when you compare it to its neighbours.
Also Sir Plum is a fine line if you have the bottle but not the skills. Easy climbing in unforgettable positions.
No mention of Torro on Ben Nevis? I haven't done it but would like too, as it's often been cited as UK's best E1
Lundy has some excellent lines at E1 too. Satins slip being very memorable as my first lundy E1. There are plenty of others too.
Trouble with picking the best is it's almost impossible.
Looking forward to ticking a fair few of the mentioned ones this year, Have a day with cemetry gates, cenotaph corner and then left wall planned as the day of onsighting at the cromlech.
Any other lines I should cram into this experience?
> No mention of Torro on Ben Nevis? I haven't done it but would like too, as it's often been cited as UK's best E1.
If it hadn't been upgraded to E2, it would be. Maybe..
Torro is definitely a total sandbag at E1, we did it on Saturday and thought it worth E2, the crux is quite technical (though short lived) and pitch 2 is pretty bold and technical and also worth E2....excellent route though, on a par with Angel Face, Shibboleth, Steeple etc...
Anyway back to the original question, I'd go with Black Streak for a 2 pitch classic but it's not long enough so I'd say Needle, Central Buttress with Nazgul finish (logical way+way better than original), Jack the Ripper, True Moments/Free bird (I think it's E1 but high in grade) and agree Superdirect and Coronation Street pretty memorable. If you're counting Magical Mystery Tour that's the best of the lot!
Im sure there are plenty more but from the E1's I have climbed....
The Needle - Shelterstone
The Long Reach - Etive Slabs
North West Passage - Gogarth
I'll put a vote in for Astral stroll, good climbing, above the sea and a pub on the way out!!!
The Priest is good, but is it really that good? Maybe it just suffers in comparison with the neighbouring Prophecy of Drowning which is arguably the best route of any grade in the UK. Actually, forget "arguably".
It is interesting that when trying to think of truly great E1's in Scotland (obviously the best E1 in the UK will be in Scotland), there is nearly always a nearby E2 which is undeniably better (Needle/Steeple, Priest/Prophecy, Minus One/Torro, Groovin' High/Angel Face). When it comes down to it, E1 just seems to be a weak grade.
The best I have done:
Cenotaph Corner (high in grade)
Cemetery Gates (low in grade)
Nexus (high in grade)
West Flank Route (Arran) (low in grade)
What?! I found the Priest a bit ordinary (By Pabbay standards - obviously better then anything at Gogarth though)
The Paradise Regained/U-Ie combination is a big improvement on either route - though not quite Prophecy quality
Now you really are joking! Standard E2.
Would you really send an HVS climber up it?
Another mention of Debauchery? I think it might be the best Peak limestone E1, which by national standards means it's not in the running. By national standards, the rock is appalling and the setting unattractive. In comparison to Pembroke even, it's rubbish, and compared to routes on the high mountains or remote sea cliffs - especially in Scotland (which I haven't experienced much of yet admittedly) the whole of the Peak is a bit of a joke. I do of course love the Peak as it's where I climb most, but I can't pretend for a second that it has any of the best routes in the UK. Boulder problems possibly...
I disagree. I think Debauchery is great by national standards. As someone has said above, it's in an amazing situation - which is the extraordinary situation of being directly above a main road/civilization (if Matlock Bath can be described as such!), yet in an utterly different world that's many times more attractive than Avon Gorge for example. And the exposure exaggerated further by the convex nature of the crag. Also, the rock is mostly very good.
Me too. Pitch one of Prophecy is mind boggling good, but then it seemed to go off the boil for a bit whereas Priest was just good bottom to top. Uiee a total belter too, but not E1 soooo...
And I can't believe I forgot Long Reach / Pause on the Etive slabs either. They have to be in the running surely. How often do you get an 8 odd pitch route in the UK where all the pitches are immaculate and worth the grade. They are stunners.
Debauchery - yuk, wandering first pitch without a line and then a mostly traversing crux pitch, slightly polished, all above a really noisy road, the wife and I were distinctly unimpressed. Darius was far better but a bit tough for E1 ;-) (and again this fits into the average E1, classic E2 game, Gogarth/Resolution Direct is another....)
PS I agree there is a lot of great climbing in Scotland, but a few classics elsewhere - Cloggy, Pembroke, Gogarth, Lundy, Sharpnose, Pentire Head to name a few.... for the E1/E2 leader Pembroke is a world class destination....
Groovin' High- Beinn Eighe, lovely and an amazing wall to be on at a reasonable grade.
Big Top- Glen Coe, not much E1 climbing but v. enjoyable and the position made it more memorable than alot of E1s i've done.
Pause is pretty good but the Long reach was stunning, and definitely a good notch harder so has to be E2 if Pause is E1.
+ 1 for An Bealach Runda
best E1 on the best crag in the UK
> Me too. Pitch one of Prophecy is mind boggling good, but then it seemed to go off the boil for a bit whereas Priest was just good bottom to top.
Are you sure you are not confusing the two routes? I am sure you are not, but I think I could be forgiven for assuming you were.
I think the amazing think about Prophecy is that all four pitches would be classic 3 star single pitch routes in their own right. The first pitch might well be the best but the exposure on perfect rock near the lip of the arch on the second pitch is fantastic and then two brilliant pitches up a perfect line of corners in a stunning situation.
In contrast, the first pitch of the Priest is not as good as Prophecy and I remember the crux pitch lacking real line on less than perfect rock.
There is simply no contest!
Agree with coronation street! absolutely stunning route, shame its not available for more of the year!
Nah just the big routes, I think the single pitch stuff is fair. And I'd rather it erred on the side of softness when you've made a 90m ab and the easiest way out is E2!
> Nah just the big routes, I think the single pitch stuff is fair. And I'd rather it erred on the side of softness when you've made a 90m ab and the easiest way out is E2!
everything a 4star route should have.safe,steep,sustained,???
....surely the best routes are bold, balancey and intricate?
Voie Suisse is the best E1 I've done; a perfect climb in one of the most magical places in the UK.
Satan's Slip is stunning despite the mid-height ledge. Better rock and much less crowded with climbers than anything on the Barra Isles.
The Pause is probably better than either of them but it's only HVS.
Superdirect on Dinas Mot the two 5b pitches offering a great contrast.
Bishop's Rib on Chair Ladder (if done in 1 long pitch)
The Plum (if done in 1 long pitch)
Cemetary Gates (I enjoyed it more than the Corner to be honest)
Black Streak on Diabeg
The Groove (Llech Ddu),
Minus One Direct (need I say where?),
The Grooves (Cyrn Las)
I agree I was a bit disappointed with Suicide Wall on Bosigran, but I thought Thin Wall Special was pretty good fun.
> everything a 4star route should have.safe,steep,sustained,???
> ....surely the best routes are bold, balancey and intricate?
Hi Alan. Only if you're too weak to do any proper climbs.
I'll take your word for it and my hat off to it!
Still solid E2 in my opinion though.
It was actually originally given E3 (which it definitely isn't!)
I felt the grades were generally fair, but maybe that's because I too was more scared than I was pepared to admit!
The Old Man of Hoy, White Slab or Cenotaph Corner.
There's also Shrike ..... so many routes, so little time!
Difficult. Perhaps best to talk in terms of best E1 Outcrop Route / single pitch AND best multi pitch.How do you compare the experience of climbing Flying Buttress Direct with The Long Reach or The Needle? Personally the best E1's I've done were the ones I had to work hardest to collect - long walk in, sense of a real expedition, difficulty of retreat. Also ones where several of the pitches might warrant E 1 in there own right, and offered a range of climbing. Thinking about it, many are Scottish.
> There's also Shrike ..... so many routes, so little time!
Shrike is E2
> Groovin' High- Beinn Eighe, lovely and an amazing wall to be on at a reasonable grade.
Boggle on Beinn Eighe is as good as Groovin' High
Perhaps you've just convinced yourself that FB direct is not the best E1 in the country by any measure
I think my favourite E1 would be superdirect. I think the long 5b pitch is great. Runners enough but only where the route lets you have them. Sadly I've never done The Grooves on Carn Las and I doupt I'll ever be good enough again
Usually I like sea cliffs best but can't think of an E1 I've really loved. I had a horrid time on the arrow. I enjoyed Gogarth bit didn't think it was amazing.
The Plum is good but I got confused about the last hard move on the ridge, which annoyed me.
Cenotaph Corner is my top Single pitch pick. It was done with an inexperienced second and a small rack (2 quick draws a fait amount of stuff on rope, 2 cams and a few wires) which made it all the more memorable
My vote goes for any of..
Strait Gate probo the best pitch of the three, but it is a bit E2ey in my opinion
> Another mention of Debauchery? I think it might be the best Peak limestone E1, which by national standards means it's not in the running. By national standards, the rock is appalling and the setting unattractive.
I dont think Debauchery belongs on this list but thats a ridiculous thing to say. The rock and setting on the main face of High Tor is some of the best the UK has to offer. What let's it down is the line, the fixed gear and the lack of any really interesting climbing.
Darius would easily be on the list of best E2s.
Yo-Yo is fantastic,but so are all the Robin Smith routes - The Needle,The Big Top - and if Boggle is as good as Groovin'High, then the trend continues. The Long Reach and Minus One Direct are also brilliant.
The routes on Pabbay are on great rock in a fantastic situation, but for me they are not as good climbing as those above.
Great short routes - Grey Panther, The Black Streak
Lucky Strike is absolutely lovely. Get's my vote. Stunning climbing, atmospheric situation, it is probably my happiest moment on rock!
> The rock and setting on the main face of High Tor is some of the best the UK has to offer.
Needless to say I think you're insane. The idea that High Tor could even be considered alongside Scafell, Chair Ladder, Mother Carey's, and basically any proper crag in Scotland (you know what I mean) in terms of setting is obviously absurd. And that polished, dubious limestone could be considered even acceptable alongside Lewisian gneiss, gabbro, Toridonian sandstone or any of the lovely solid rough volcanics that our mountains are made of, is equally or even more silly.
Do you honestly go and climb something like Astral Stroll, and think "wow, this is up there with Peak limestone!"?
> Darius would easily be on the list of best E2s.
Well it's a long, tiring route. I guess that's what people like. Personally, I'd choose pretty much any route I've done a beautiful wild setting over Darius. And don't get me started on Scoop Wall! Talk about overrated.
Gogarth is sh!t and I haven't done The Arrow but was utterly unimpressed with St Govs. Replace those with North West Passage and Strait Gate then we'd be talking...
It would be nice if there was a 'vote' feature on these boards. People could then vote on 'The Best E1 in the UK'.
I like Cemetery Gates more than Cenotaph Corner, but there are so many cracking E1s that naming 'the best' is impossible for me.
> Well [darius is] a long, tiring route. I guess that's what people like. Personally, I'd choose pretty much any route I've done a beautiful wild setting over Darius. And don't get me started on Scoop Wall! Talk about overrated.
The climbing on Darius and scoop wall is exceptional in my opinion, both have climbing as good as any Ive done on any other route. Granted the scenery isn't exactly top notch.
Is in mine, is on here, and felt like it to me :-)
(Routes that I've done, that are getting mentions here, but that I didn't think were that amazing: Debauchery, Plum, Superdirect. And the Castell Helen routes have fantastic positions on the top pitches, but the lines are all rather indistinct/interchageable. Surely a real classic has to have a logical and inescapable-at-the-grade line?)
Am I the only one who thinks Long Reach is slightly dangerously down-graded? Pitch 4 is very serious with the hardest moves way above poor protection, not to mention it has 5 x 5b pitches. When I did it a party behind got rescued off it from the Pause by another team, which is alledgedly same grade but much more straight forward - only one 5b pitch which is well protected!
Fantastic climbing regardless.
The Pause is still just HVS in my book, but if it is given E1, then you are probably correct to think The Long Reach should be given a higher grade. Having five 5b pitches for me just makes it a sustained E1, and the boldness of routes on the slabs can't be compared to boldness on other crags, as all you have to do if you come off, is run!
I see True Moments/Freebird gets E2 these days. Not really justified IMHO.
But then again, Cemetery Gates will always be definitive HVS to me, so what do I know?
I think the Long Reach is E2 and the Pause E1, which is one of my suggestions for best E1. Others are:
The Needle, especially if you partner is leading in the 4's.
Yo yo I am surprised gets 4 stars, as it's dirty and wet, great climbing (especially the start!) and great line.
Top pitch of Jack the Ripper was brilliant.
Grey Panther, for a single pitch, is excellently sustained for 40ish m.
My favourites were Baker's Door, Pembroke and Indy 500, lundy
sure there are climbs in better positions but the climbing and all round experience amazing on both
I csnt believe that people just drive straight past chepstow heading to devon, cornwall or pembroke when the best stuff is at wintours leap, nutters.
I have just got back from the Lakes where I followed my mate up Central Buttress at Scarfell Crag, E1 5b. It was superb. Very exposed, with each pitch having its own unique quality. Amazing views of the Lakes from the belays. It has my vote anyway!
The best E1 I've done is The Big Top on Aonach Dubh which I think is something special. Plenty of routes have brilliant climbing - Torro and Yo-Yo, for example - but the position on that route is just amazing.
More votes for Jack the Ripper, Coronation Street, Superdirect, Magical Mystery Tour.
Bishop's Rib is very good, but the best (second) pitch, although amazing is in isolation only about VS, so don't think it's quite up there.
Another vote for An Bealach Runda, proper E1 adventure!
> More votes for Jack the Ripper, Coronation Street, Superdirect, Magical Mystery Tour.
> Bishop's Rib is very good, but the best (second) pitch, although amazing is in isolation only about VS, so don't think it's quite up there.
Yup, the long second pitch is almost disappointingly easy, though wonderfully good.
That looks utterly brilliant as a modern way of doing it (since the chockstone tragedy).
I guess that another very good modern combo at VS standard would be to do Botterill's Slab and then traverse right onto Jeffcoat's Ledge and do the original finish of Central Buttress.
Good though it is, I suspect that CC is only really world famous in the UK :-)
Old Man of Hoy
are all pretty fun
Magical Mystery Tour should also have been there of course, but as a solo. it must be a nightmare roped.
> Magical Mystery Tour should also have been there of course, but as a solo. it must be a nightmare roped.
MMT as an E1, even without ropes surely VS at most?
Having done well over 500 E1s in the UK I can remember great experiences on many but the one that always comes to mind as one of the best mountaineering experiences of my long climbing career is The Needle on the Shelterstone in 1979. Good rock on a remote crag with 9 big and varied pitches takes some beating. Apart from the clean grey rock on the crag the surrounding mountainside was dazzling white with strong early June sunshine reflecting off the still deep snow. We didn't see another party all day. Brilliant.
The Strand is pretty good. So is Nexus but Yo Yo and The Needle are better.
It's a better route than cem gates or superdirect...
I reckon Central Buttress Scafell, but I've only done two E1's so I'm also influenced by other peoples opinions over the years.
Is that the UK's best E1? 'Fraid I missed that one!
Yoyo - Glen Coe - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=162
Superdirect - Dinas Mot - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=3261
Coronation Street - Cheddar Gorge South - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36044
"Three pebble slab" - Froggatt - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10925
The Grooves - Cyrn Las - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29137
Cenotaph Corner - Dinas Y Gromlech - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=3195
Minus One Direct - Ben Nevis - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=522
Gogarth - Gogarth North Stack (Main Cliff) - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4297
The Groove - Lech Ddu - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29159
The Needle - Shelterstone Crag - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7496
An Bealach Rúnda - Fair Head - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=38806
East Face Original Route - Old Man of Hoy - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1
Rock Idol - Mother Carey's Kitchen, Pembroke - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24974
Magical Mystery Tour - Berry Head (The Old Redoubt) - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35091
Aviation - Hay Tor - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26081
George - Tissigton Spires - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=20401
Central Buttress - Scafell Crag - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6984
Cemetary Gates - Dinas Y Gromlech - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=3202
The Arrow - St. Govan's Head - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24790
The Plum - Craig Bwlch Y Moch, Tremadog - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2490
Nexus - Dinas Mot - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=3301
Astrol Stroll - Carn Gloose: Cave Zawn, Cornwall - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45171
Moyers Buttress - Gardoms Edge - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11147
Debauchery - High Tor - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=15587
North West Passage - Gogarth South Stack (Castell Helen) - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4367
The Priest - Pabbay - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67069
White Slab - Clogwyn Du'r Arddu - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2208
The Black Streak - Diabaig - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=3162
Suicide Wall - Bosigran - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=840
Flying Buttress Direct - Stanage Popular End - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10372
Unicorn - Stob Coire nan Lochan - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7881
Sirplum - Plum Buttress, Chee Dale - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12158
Torro - Ben Nevis - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=481
Satan's Slip - Lundy - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=31091
Grey Panther - Kilt Rock, Staffin, Skye - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=5469
The Long Reach - Beinn Trilleachan (Etive Slabs) - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=455
North West Passage - Gogarth South Stack (Castell Helen) - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4367
Prophecy of Drowning - Pabbay - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67068
Barbarian - Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2639
West Flank Route - Cir Mhor (South Face), Arran - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2093
Groovin' High - Beinn Eighe - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=99748
The Big Top - Aanoch Dubh (West face) - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=168
Voie Suisse - Gist Ddu - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=105962
Bishop's Rib - Chair Ladder - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1996
Shrike - Clogwyn Du'r Arddu - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2130
Boggle - Beinn Eighe - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=99821
Lucky Strike - Rusty Walls - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24596
The Strait Gate - Mother Carey's Kitchen - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24976
Baker's Door - Bosherston Head - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24649
Indy 500 - Lundy - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=31096
Wurlitzer - Wintour's Leap - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35959
Dragon - Carnmore Crag - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1673
Jack the Ripper - Stac Pollaidh - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7800
Rock Dancer - Carn Kenidjack - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=43085
Left Unconquerable - Stanage Plantation - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10175
Spring Squill - Pabbay - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=68392
Wishful Thinking - The Castle, Pembrokeshire - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46780
The Strand - Gogarth North Stack - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4327
Sheltered Wall - Sheep's Tor - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32689
Mars - Subluminal - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=14367
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