/ Best placed for relaxed easy trad in Ogwen

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Oujmik - on 29 May 2012
Hi all, will be off to Ogwen soon for a week walking and scrambling and wanted to throw in a bit of easy trad for good measure. I've got the Ogwen guidebook, but there is so much choice I thought I'd ask for some pointers.

I've only just started leading with a couple of Mods in the Peak District, but I've been scrambling for a while and have done a couple of sport leads and a fair bit indoors, crucial fact is that my second is pretty nervous so I don;t want to be pushing my ability/nerve, I also don't want loads of other groups snapping at our heels. Ultimately I'd like to be able to do easy mountain routes like those on the East Face of Tryfan but I currently have virtually zero multipitch experience.

So, I'm looking for a quietish crag with shortish non-commiting routes at M, Diff or VDiff. If they are multipitch the belays need to be really good with spacious stances as my second will not appreciate being left perched halfway up a face while I mess around with gear!

I'd been looking at Tryfan Bach, or possibly some of the shorter routes on Carnedd y Filast, or Idwal Slabs but the descent and the busy-ness put me off?

Any recommendations or general tips?
Rampikino - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:

IIRC Carnedd y Filiast is a bit of a beast to get to.

Gribin Facet is quiet and has a handful of easier routes, though is a bit limited. Tryfan Fach (Bach?) is very amenable.
notgnarly - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Rampikino:

We went to Carnedd y Filast a few weeks ago, we were practicing moving together as a 3 in big boots so really appreciated being the only people on the crag. Rock is amazingly sticky.

The walk in wasn't too bad, though it is quite steep and there's some large rock scree (talus) to scramble up at the base of the crag.
davidbeynon - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Rampikino:

It's not so bad. Half an hour of beasting up hill is virtually nothing for a mountain crag, and once you are there you get it to yourself.
Ramblin dave - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:
The Sub-Cneifion Rib is a good alternative to Idwal Slabs. It's VDiff, so it's at the upper end of what you're after, but it's generally escapable with good gear and big party ledges for the belays.

And then you can continue onto the Cneifion Arete, which is a pitch or two of joyously juggy diff (more big belay ledges) followed by some easy scrambling, followed by a couple of protectable grade 2/3ish steps followed by more easy scrambling.
adamki - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:
tryfan bach and idawl slabs are probs best for learning multi pitch. also routes like Rowan route and direct route on milestone buttress (direct route is an awesome VD) but expect these routes to all be very busy.. lots of outdoor groups and slow beginners.

Filast is generally a lot quieter, but many of the routes are friction slabs which dont have much gear or obvious places to belay.
Simon Caldwell - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:
I wouldn't recommend Carnedd y Filiast. The approach is easy (despite some comments here!) but protection is spaced so not an ideal introduction.

How about Tryfan West Face? Lots of Mods and a few Diff/VDiff.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16585
Notch Arete is brilliant - it starts high up so best approached by one of the other routes.
IainRUK - on 29 May 2012
In reply to davidbeynon: Regardless the routes are pretty serious and run out...

Tryfan Bach is far more user friendly..

After that there are some great routes on the milestone, but you need to be able to do the abseil. If not Gribin Facet.

Owen Meany on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:

I'm the worst climber in the world and I found Tryfan Bach very user friendly. There are a number of routes around the Mod/Diff/V Diff level and most are fairly short (albeit some can be split into two pitches)so not too much scary/panic potential!

And when we were there a family of goats trip-trapped up a Severe, making me feel totally inadequate :-)

OM
David Hooper - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik: tryfan Bach,bochlywd buttress,milestone buttress and gribin facet should all give lots of quality easier routes. Subalpine Cneifion rib although nominally a VD and a beautiful route may freak you out a bit,it's delicate balancy and the gear ain't always where you want it - a confident approach pays off here. Equally don't underestimate tryfan east face or ideal slabs,the descent from the slabs can be problematic if you don't know it. Craig caseg fraith the pale long outcrop behind Williams campsite is cracking well protected single pitch and a good place to puch your grade into S and V'S with about a 30 second walk in.
bowls - on 29 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:

There are a few routes on Alphabet Slab, Glyder Fach and Mod/Diff plus there are a few V Diffs around - Chasm and East Gully Arete plus many of the harder scrambles around here too. Usually fairly quite too.
Oujmik - on 30 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik: Thanks, lots of good tips there. Looks like I'll be making Tryfan Bach my first stop, maybe have a look at the crags by the campsite too. I'll check out the others when I' in the area and see if they appeal.

I had been toying with Cneifion Arete as a roped scramble anyway, just not sure how we'd find it as we don't have much experience beyond grade 1.
tompilgrem - on 30 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:
Slab route on the Gribin Facet may be a good choice, with the alternate (more direct) start at VD, well protected, then a Diff romp following the polish to the top! There's many ledges you can split the slab pitch into on big ledges, think the guidebook runs it as 3 but I've always done it as one long pitch!
Ramblin dave - on 30 May 2012
In reply to Oujmik:
> (In reply to Oujmik)
> I had been toying with Cneifion Arete as a roped scramble anyway, just not sure how we'd find it as we don't have much experience beyond grade 1.

It's great!

Apart from the diff bit at the beginning, which you can pitch (one pitch to a massive ledge followed by a very short pitch if you don't fancy soloing the awkward but not very exposed chimney) it's mostly grade one apart from a slightly tricky step in the middle, which you can stick a rope on for if you want (my gf was a bit nervy about it, so we just used a direct belay around a rock to make sure noone would fall too far).
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Oujmik - on 11 Jun 2012
In reply to Oujmik: Thanks for all replies so far, trip is drawing close now - hopefully it won;t be a wash out! Does anyone have any experience of the Panting Buttress? (listed under Gribin Facet in Ogwen guide, has a few single pitches which sound okay).

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