/ Portugal in August?
Cabo sao Vincente at Sagres is so twisty-turny you'll find somewhere in the shade or breeze or both. Some very memorable routes, with proper big seas under them. Sort of Pembroke with bolts, but trad too.
Ingrina for DWS, is just East along the coast. Nice, but steep - too steep for me really: I ran out of routes in fairly short order.
Places like Rocha da Pena are mentally hot at anything other than first thing in the morning. The Jingo Wobbly guide is very flattering for this place. Definitely a 'local' crag and 'incidental' rather than a 'destination' crag.
No idea about anything further North - Sintra and what have you
Thanks, so they're both right in the south - if we were based somewhere around there do you reckon there'd be enough to keep us busy for maybe 5-6 days of actual climbing? Ideally with lots of routes around 6c-7b?
Well, at those grades you'd have a blast at Ingrina. That's all documented in the DWS book.
Sagres - not sure. there was talk of a guide but last time I went you had to resort to the new routes book in the Dromedario cafe in Sagres, with tracing paper and/or a digital camera.
There are some very steep areas with a fair bit at that grade, but I'm not sure when the sun gets on them. If you take some trad gear then there's a whole host of additional opportunities.
the guy who, I believe, runs the Mile End wall put up the majority of routes and would be able to give you the definitive answer. Alternatively, Geeze of this parish should be able to give you a bit more info and tell you the latest on the guide.
The beach and restaurant at Ingina are nice by the way.
OK, thanks again, will look those two up.
Do you mean the Mile End wall in London??
I do indeed. The guy there has apparently been going to the Sagres area for years.
I'm afraid I don't recall the name, but if you get in touch with Geeze he might be able to point you in the right direction if the Mile End connection doesn't lead anywhere.
OK ta, I did try to contact Geeze but not heard back, will give the Mile End wall a call.
Got a quick reply from Pete at www.havefuninthesun.co.uk:
You can climb here in August but it is Hot,Sagres is your best bet as there is a lot to do.The best thing to do is climb the west coast in the morning and the south coast in the afternoon,you will be in the shade all day and the breeze off the sea will keep you cool.
Most routes at Sagres are reached by abseil so make sure you get the grade right as no one is coming to get you.!!
You have a crag that is called Armazan nova,all over hanging 6a-8a,be careful here as the bolts have been known to snap.
Ingrina or Ponte garcia.
The sea at the moment is very cold but it should be ok in August..?
There are two inland crags well worth a look but i would climb them from 5 oclock till dark as there will be shaded sectors.Far to hot in day.
Roche da pena and a new crag (no name yet) that is just out side albufeira on the way to Gale.
The new crag is small but great climbing and the climbs are all hard.
There is a topo for Pena at the crag,no topo for Gale at the moment and for sagres go in to the DROMADARIO bar and ask the girl for topo book,you can check most the stuff i have mentioned.
While in Sagres you can boulder on Beliche beach,bottom of stairs small cave and walk across the beach to big cave,cant mis all the chalk and you can traverse alot to.
The inland crags will be very warm so Sagres is your best option.
Here are some co-ordinates for Google Maps. Copy and paste the numbers.
37.006194,-8.927486 Sector Baleera
20+ bolted routes 25-30m 5+ to 7b mainly 5+ to mid 6's. Abseil into good ledges. closely spaced bolts.
37.00351,-8.930005 The Garden
5 bolted routes 30m 3+ to 4+ Abseil to good ledges. Separate abseil rope useful as pulled ropes tend to hang up on blocks and flakes.
37.002387,-8.932228 Navigator slab
3 bolted routes 5+ to 6a 40m Abseil to good ledge or downclimb (abseil bolts)and scramble in from 37.001582,-8.931474 mid to low tide.
2 bolted routes both two pitches 6b to 7a. 27m X 2 abseils to good ledges.
37.026485,-8.978598 Parete Riscas
11 routes 6b to 7a+ 30m Abseil to good ledges. Rock is much better than it looks.
37.021151,-8.984578 Sector Corgas
20 routes 6a to 8c mainly 7 and 8's steeply OHing. Abseil in from anchors above, or abb/scramble in from fishermans path 100m further south towards the headland
37.024253,-8.98908 The Furnace
A dozen bolted lines within this area 4+ to 8a Walk in access
37.026236,-8.99371 White Slab
4 bolted routes 5 to 7a Abseil to good ledges 45m or 2 X 25m
2 bolted routes 6b to 7a Abseil to good ledge in the sea 2 X 30m
37.028647,-8.99095 The Mirror
4 bolted routes 6a to 7a Abseil to good ledge 45m or 2 X 30; or 3 bolt hanging stance
37.030163,-8.98672 Armação Nova
20+ bolted routes in various states. 10m to 70m. Mainly walk in with wade at low tide or abseil for Parete Grande at far end.
As you wander around you'll find a number of other bolted areas but these ones will get you going. There are 700+ trad routes (you get bored counting, naming and grading after after seventeen years) if you have the gear with you.
Excellent stuff, thanks Andy.
700 routes! I knew you'd been busy, but not that busy! Good effort!
I've just been told it's more like twenty four years, so I've been a bit of a slacker really.
I've not been for a couple of years, but we used to go in the winter every year (Vale do Lobo). The trouble is, that for the first 15 of those I didn't know about Rocha da Pena and the one time I went to Sagres, the waves were breaking over the cliff tops, which put me off a bit!
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