/ Warm up routine?
hope this helps
hope it goes well
This warm-up routine is seemingly sufficient up to E9:
A human shoulder is not really 'designed' to go above shoulder height. So a 'rotation' is over-extension and generally not a good idea tbh.
> A human shoulder is not really 'designed' to go above shoulder height. So a 'rotation' is over-extension and generally not a good idea tbh.
So getting up form the ground has the shoulder above your head ?
I do some easy circuits (f4/5) then I fail on the hard stuff.
I don't really want any pump in the first 2 warm up routes but the last warm up routes need to get increasingly pumpy. I think a lot of people 'save themselves' to much in the warm up then get a flash pump in by jumping in to a hard route.
>I need more of a prolonged warm-up if I plan to go for onsights than if I am redpointing (ideally 5 routes before a hard onsight attempt and 3 before redpointing). If I'm attempting a redpoint project,
Yeah I'm the same. If i plan on onsighting something at my limit then i need to prepare myself for whatever moves i might come across, where as for a redpoint i only need to be warmed up for the moves on that route, which is much simpler (especially due to muscle memory).
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