/ Warm up routine?

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lancsclimber - on 04 Jun 2012
Now what are peoples theories/ideas on warming up? I'm interested in seeing a correlation between the types of warm up and the session quality you have/grade you climb. does anybody warm up sufficiently?! The reason i ask is i have often seen people turn up and start cranking away nothing not even a rotation of the shoulder and still climb fairly strong.
james.london on 04 Jun 2012 - 2.25.166.136 whois?
In reply to lancsclimber: heyy, when i climbed (now easing back into it) i gerally started on joint rotations rotating key joints like elbows,wrists, and knees, etc, then i would do a light jog on the spot to get the blood going, after this i would do muscle stretches from neck down, and then after this i would do dynamic stretches example : walking in a cat motion on hands and feet for 1 minute forwards then backwards, after that do a few side ward cat walk steps and the same the opposite way, then i would do a traverse around the room no higher then i can reach , and work my way around the wall, then get into a small route then climb properly , i tend to do balancing exercises like put one of my hands behind my back and use the other for climbing and balance, using my nose touching the wall to make sure im balanced, this helped alot .. i was climbing upto 6a comfortably pushing 6b i rekon on bouldering
indoors!
hope this helps
cliff shasby - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to lancsclimber: it may depend on your job too,if ive been working hard all day and go to the wall,i warm up/stretch minimally but if ive not done much that day i'll warm up more,maybe its a case of listening to your body.
james.london on 04 Jun 2012 - 2.25.166.136 whois?
In reply to cliff shasby: yes true, but should lightly stretch no matter what to prevent injury, to many go on "cold" then tear muscles so best to get some blood going, and lightly stretch or warm up, generally spend 20- 30 mins warming up and i see a huge difference in how and knowing what i should work on
lancsclimber - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to cliff shasby: Cheers guys recently i have stopped the routine of increasing heart beat and then stretching etc then going onto grades of an easy grad etc! I've been experimenting with mainly focusing on the movement of the hips and shoulders (dynamically) with little or no pulse raising. Switching it around still and trying to find a good combination for now still in an experimental phase. Besides looking a bit funny warming up the hips and getting the fluid moving in the large joints i can honestly say my climbing has improved and i feel movement in both every day life and climbing has greatly improved.Warm up last for a max of 5 mins, please note i haven't yet used this in terms on a strength training session i do realise that i would need a more efficient warm up of the fingers/wrists.
james.london on 04 Jun 2012 - 2.25.166.136 whois?
In reply to lancsclimber: yes warm up the fingers and wrists and knees .. i also find doing really easy climbs do it as slow as possible thing about every detail and knowing where every part of my body goes, i find it fun like that!
hope it goes well
thebigfriendlymoose - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to lancsclimber:

This warm-up routine is seemingly sufficient up to E9:

http://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=71
Tiberius - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to lancsclimber:
> ...not even a rotation of the shoulder and still climb fairly strong.

A human shoulder is not really 'designed' to go above shoulder height. So a 'rotation' is over-extension and generally not a good idea tbh.
Scott_vzr on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to Tiberius:
> (In reply to lancsclimber)
> [...]
>
> A human shoulder is not really 'designed' to go above shoulder height. So a 'rotation' is over-extension and generally not a good idea tbh.

So getting up form the ground has the shoulder above your head ?

Cave days..........
mgco3 - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to lancsclimber: A jimmy riddle, scratch my arse, burp then fart and I am warmed up ready for anything..
bouldery bits - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to lancsclimber:

I do some easy circuits (f4/5) then I fail on the hard stuff.
mike1979 - on 05 Jun 2012
In reply to lancsclimber: I don't bother with any stretching. I just start with a pretty easy route climbing slowly and stretching a bit as I go. Then I work up through the grades finishing with a route that gives me a good pump. I need more of a prolonged warm-up if I plan to go for onsights than if I am redpointing (ideally 5 routes before a hard onsight attempt and 3 before redpointing). If I'm attempting a redpoint project, then the last warm-up route is normally climbing bolt to bolt and cleaning the route.

I don't really want any pump in the first 2 warm up routes but the last warm up routes need to get increasingly pumpy. I think a lot of people 'save themselves' to much in the warm up then get a flash pump in by jumping in to a hard route.
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_MJC_ - on 05 Jun 2012
In reply to mike1979:
>I need more of a prolonged warm-up if I plan to go for onsights than if I am redpointing (ideally 5 routes before a hard onsight attempt and 3 before redpointing). If I'm attempting a redpoint project,

Yeah I'm the same. If i plan on onsighting something at my limit then i need to prepare myself for whatever moves i might come across, where as for a redpoint i only need to be warmed up for the moves on that route, which is much simpler (especially due to muscle memory).

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