/ Creatures of habit - peak recommendations!

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jessyb - on 08 Jun 2012
This isn't such a lazy question as it might seem ... I can google but I'm interested in & would be grateful for, your opinions.

We always end up at the same places when we're in the peak. I don't know how it happens but it does & I'd like to mix it up a bit.

I always end up at Stanage or Froggat or Burbage, camp at Edale at Upper Booth (a way from Stanage I know but i like it), going to one of the 2 outside cafes and boozing at the Ramblers Inn. These are all brilliant but ... what other crags / cafes / pubs / campsites should I experience before I shuffle off?

Need some easier vdiffy & some e1y type grades & a campsite for a little camper van.
galpinos - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Go West....... to the Roaches!
mkean - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:
Gardoms is good, Ramshaw is definitely worth a visit and the Roaches are worth a cursory look :-)

Campsites, this is based on experiences in a tent:

North Lees - Good and close to Stanage
Hardhurst Farm - Good and near a pub
Laneside - Noisy, overpriced, beauracratic
Eric Byrne memorial campsite - Basic, cheap and with free mud.
Roaches camping - About as basic as it is possible to get but very close to the excellent tearoom just up the road which does an excellent Staffordshire oatcake.
Dave Garnett - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Given your name you should try Dovedale and Beeston Tor (not to mention Cheedale) loads of localish campsites (Hulme End, for instance, has a popular campsite and pub). There are often camper vans parked just below Beeston Tor, but I'm not sure of the arrangements.
jessyb - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to mkean:

Thanks for the suggestions. Never even HEARD of Ramshaw. Will check it out in the book tonight. Not sure if I've been to Gardoms.....

I HAVE been to the Roaches - but didn't think to include it under the peak district. Probably says a lot about my idea of geography (and therefore why I camp in Edale and climb at Burbage). But I'm going there in a few weeks & I'll check out the tea room!

Looked at North Lees - not sure if they take camper vans though it looks lovely.

How about any campsites in the peak where you can actually have a fire? Or crags or pubs famous from the climbing literature? Or places to wild camp, or whack the camper out of the way (& still maybe walk to a pub & back - naturally).

:)
mkean - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:
Her indoors mentioned something about a campsite near one of the limestone crags that supposedly allowed fires but I don't know which one or where it is.

Ramshaw is definitely worth a visit and would be at number 1 or 2 in my list of "peak crags for sadists" as I can't decide whether it is more or less evil than Curbar! Lovely climbing though :-)

Ramblin dave - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey: I'm in kind of a similar situation, although I've been to a couple more Peak crags (Bamford, Birchen, Gardoms). If it ever stops raining for more than a day or two I'm hoping to head up to some moorland grit - Kinder or Dovestones or similar.
jessyb - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Awesome idea! 2 other places I've not tried.
althesin on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:
Have to recommend :http://www.newhousefarm.co.uk/Camping.html
because it allows fires AND it's got a little crag!
It's near Dovedale, not so handy for the rest of the Peak.
jessyb - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:
The name's not related to a love for LImestone! It freaks me out a bit in this country! Maybe I should man up. Hulme End campsite looks really good though. I'll check out the crags. Not sure if they're 'too ard' for me. Could send my climbing buddy up 1st but I've still got to get up there. :)
Monk - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Do you always go to the popular bits of Stanage? A visit to some of the less frequented areas can feel like a real breath of fresh air sometimes.

Gardoms and Curbar are both excellent crags, although you have to work a little harder to both find and climb the routes compared to Stanage, Froggatt and Burbage North. I really enjoy the quarries too - Millstone is great, and has a few lower grade climbs, but Lawrencefield sounds ideal for your grade selection. It is a bit of a suntrap, but that shouldn't be a problem at the moment...
Dave 88 - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Shirley you've been to Millstone? And there's Lawrencefield right across the road.
PebblePusher - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
> (In reply to limey)
>
> Shirley you've been to Millstone? And there's Lawrencefield right across the road.

Another vote for Millstone, one of my favourite places in the peak. I didn't check you profile out but if you climb HVS there is sooo much to go at it's unreal. Great Portland Street comes highly recommended, still one of my favourite routes to date.

Svelt is good fun as well and a soft touch at HVS!
GrahamD - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Loads of E1 options but beware - a lot of the ideas above are not really VD friendly options - especially Limestone and Millstone on grit !

If you haven't been, then Roaches should be high on your list, with camping near Hen Cloud and the delightful Roaches Tea Room opposite for breakfast.
victorclimber - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey: Upper Tor .Nether Tor,Dovestones ..
Dave 88 - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to GrahamD:

Haha yeah true, Millstone is rubbish for lower grades. Brixton Road, "the best easy route at the quarry". Kind of a "best pint that's been pissed in" statement.
jessyb - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to Dave 88:

Don't call me shirley!

Good point on the grades! That's maybe why I've not yet made it to some of these places. That & habit. But, you've all inspired me .. I'm going to definitely explore strange new crags, seek out new campsites and boldy send my climbing buddy up first if it looks a bit scary.

Thank you.
Simon - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

If you camp at Edale isn't the bloomin obvious stood right in front of you?

Grab the new BMC guide & head up Kinder - I promise it's worth the effort & is much better than the boring Stanage experience...
EZ on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Absolutely The Roaches.

Camping:
Reg Day
Homestead Farm,
Upper Hulme,
Leek,
Staffordshire,
ST13 8TY.
01538 300419

Tearooms:
http://www.roachestearooms.co.uk/breakfast_menu.html

Pub:
http://www.yeolderockinn.co.uk/homepage.html
------------
Lower Tier:

Slabs:
Chalkstorm E3 5c (soft with a headgame, an easy top rope and well worthwhile if you don't want to lead it)
Elegy E2 5c (On the lighter side and the run out at the top is like being branded with excitement)
Hawkwing E1 5b (How far do you want me to traverse? On that?!)

History:
Valkyrie VS 4c (Tough at the grade but must do material whatever grade above it you climb - Best on halves with one kept solely to belay the second from above on the second pitch, ie don't put it into any runners)

Fun:
Raven Rock Gully D (Hard at this traditional feeling grade but such entertainment squeezing out of the top:-)
Prow corner VD (Clean rock and good moves)
Prow Corner Cracks HVD (Right next door and a good next route for someone who felt good on the last one)
----------
Upper Tier (2 minutes up the steps):

Cracks:
The Sloth HVS 5b (What stonking fun but save some grunt for the end)
Saul's Crack HVS 5b (The polish in the crack just makes the route better hahahahaha)

Mixed ground:
Maud's Garden VD (Mild but with a bold start if you're novice. Bags of exposure for the grade on the head wall)
Black Velvet HVD 4a (Bang on for the grade, but steep and a sense of surprise at yourself if it is what you climb at. Great fun with a deep corner onto a ramp to a corner crack to a short section of slab and nothing in 24m to stop you from knowing how high you are. Brilliant)
Pedestal Route HVD 4a (If you want lunch and nobody's queuing for it then there is no better place for a sandwich than on the Pedestal)
Right Route VD (Originally known as route one. It's had a lot of traffic because it's a lot of route. Good fun, single pitch it with thoughtfully used halves or belay on the whopping shelf)
----------
Skyline (10 minutes further towards the top of the hill):

Mixed ground:
Definitive Gaze E1 5c (I don't know why this isn't starred. I found it thought provoking indeed)
Safety Net E1 5b (Hard to commit to the start and belting protection for a transfer from safety to a flying crack above a short roof)

Long journeys:
Slab and Arete S 4a (Goes at severe. I know that isn't what you asked for but the protection is good, it goes with a prelude and a long traverse to an arete that has the bravery but not the difficulty at the end)
Cave Arete S 4a (Easy for the money and can be made more or less exciting by staying farther right)

Basically mate... get yourself to The Roaches as soon as your camper will get you there. It is a big crag with a big feel that has history, height, delicate routes and routes of thunder at all grades, with essentially quite different feeling crags very close.

Hen Cloud still has nesting so I imagine that the major 30m buttress is OOB.

You're also right next to Ramshaw, Back Forest and The Five Clouds.
Gordon Stainforth - on 08 Jun 2012
In reply to Dave 88:

Actually, Brixton Road is quite good/fun at its grade and deserves its one star.
Tom V - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Chew Valley is looking very fashionable (compared to what it was).

Plenty of V.Diffs around and the Wimberry HVS's might suit an E1 leader.

Camping at Wellihole ( a few hundred yards past the Clarence)
Good breakfasts at Country Kitchen and beer at the King Bill.
LakesWinter on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to Tom V: If you're going to Chew Valley then you might as well go to the Dovestones too (different place entirely from Dovestones Tor in the east btw). Loads of good, easy climbs there and a few harder ones too.

Curbar has stacks of good routes but they're almost all hard work, try PMC1 and go from there. Birchen is a great place for leading Severe type routes and has a few good hard HVS/E1 type routes too. Plus it's right next to the Eric Byne campsite.
Bulls Crack - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:

Dovedale/the Manifold etc - camp at Alstonfield or similar. Some lovely pubs and interesting climbing.
bone - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to limey:
"... and boldy send my climbing buddy up first if it looks a bit scary." Haha I like it! Another vote for Roaches & Clouds.

Dave 88 - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Sorry Gordon, but it wasn't for me. No point trying to drag lower grade routes out of Millstone in my humble opinion, better to just go elsewhere. Pulpit Groove across the road at Lawrencefield, on the other hand, is one of the best VDiffs I've done.
Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to Dave 88:

Well, I don't disagree with that. It is surely futile to go to Millstone for purpose of climbing lower grades. Don't remember much about Pulpit Groove but I'm sure you're right.
Duncan Bourne - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to EZ:
In addition to your excellent write up for the Roaches...

Further climbing on nearby Newstones, Baldstones and Gradbach Hill

History: Bored of climbing then a visit to the Lud's Church ravine, supposed meeting place of Sir Gawain & the Green Knight or the dedications to dog and master on the Catstone at the far end of Basck Forest, or sit in the princess of Tek's seat at the top of Tek Crack.

Pubs: The Lazy Trout near Titsworth Reservoir has a beer garden with one of the best views of the Roaches. Real ale is plentiful at the Winking man (also meeting place for the Peak BMC on the odd Wednesday night). For that old world pub that time forgot experience there is the Quiet Woman at Earl Sterndale a short walk from Alderley Cliff (if you fancy a bit of non-bolted limestone near to the Roaches, excellent routes just mind they don't fall on you.) and for the Royston Vasey experience there is the Royal Cottage (near the Winkingman Pub, see if you can spot it on the main road). Other nearby pubs that may be worth a visit (though I haven't been to them in a while) are The Three Horseshoes (carvery), The Travellers Rest (now the Knights Table), and the Mermaid away on the top of the hill on the other side of the Buxton road from the Roaches.

Gearshops: Jo Royles in Buxton is the best
ads.ukclimbing.com
EZ on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Don't forget caving supplies in Buxton about 150m from Jo Royle. They are considered by many to be the best caving shop in Britain and are good for rope, technical devices, helmets and lighting. I am sure that there are other crossovers with climbing. They are a small shop that it is good to know about.
http://www.caving-supplies.co.uk/

Also, I can heartily recommend the Knights Table at The Traveller's Rest (About 3 - 4 miles toward Buxton from Ramshaw in the village of Flash). They have the whole place tastefully but prolifically decked out with medieval and Arthurian stuff. The Landlady and Landlord are very pleasant. The food is good honest pub fare that is certainly not nuclearwaved from frozen. If there were a facility to vote for pubs on here, I'd give them a big fat 5 :-)

And I'd forgotten about Lud's Church. I haven't been for a year or more. What a fantastic (in every sense of the word) place that is. Wow. If only history, etiquette and damp from the micro-climate that it contains didn't stop us from climbing the north wall of the chasm.

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