/ bouldering in west midlands?

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rydott123 - on 09 Jun 2012
hey, just wondering if anyone on this site is from west midland area and knows any good outdoor bouldering spots i can try out this summer?
without having to travel all the way to wales! lol
james.slater - on 09 Jun 2012
In reply to rydott123:
The huntsham rocks near symonds yat in the wye valley, not been there myself, but apparently its awesome!
ERU - on 09 Jun 2012
rydott123 - on 10 Jun 2012
In reply to vertigo714:
may have to do some research on it then!!
iv got a dislocated knee at the minute anyway so wont be for a good couple months until i can go. hopefully the weathers better by then! lol
Mark Kemball - on 10 Jun 2012
rydott123 - on 10 Jun 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

this place looks amazing! how much of it is bouldering though? looks mostly rope climbing
In reply to rydott123: Depends where you are, but Southstone might be worth a look http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1066 There is a lot of lower rock beyond the "route sector", particularly to the left, and when I was last there, tree clearance had made it all a lot more open. For example there is nothing currently on this buttress: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3bhSo6922y4/TRo43YX4i-I/AAAAAAAACk8/msi4IzCZlng/s1600/Southstone4.JPG

A few more pics: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.fi/2010/12/southstone-rock-local-cliff-for-local.html

With a pad, some brushes and some secateurs to clear the brambles back, I reckon local boulders could find some pretty sweet problems there.
Mark Kemball - on 11 Jun 2012
In reply to rydott123: Not actually been there, but it has a good reputation and there certainly seems to be a fair few problems on the logbook page. It now has its own guide (+ free DVD in the version I looked at a couple of years ago).
rydott123 - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

definately worth checking out then! cheers dude
rydott123 - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to TobyA:
im in wolverhampton area mate. not much around here close by.

need to find some fun spots for the summer!
In reply to rydott123:

> im in wolverhampton area mate.

Better luck next time then. ;)

More seriously probably the Shropshire crags might be more accessible for you, but Southstone might be worth a visit one day. It's a very pretty area and lots of nice pubs for lunch etc.

Mark Kemball - on 15 Jun 2012
In reply to rydott123: I'm originally from Wolvo, so I'm afraid there's not a lot closer than Shropshire. There is alot more at Kinver edge than is mentioned on UKC, but to be fair, it's not up to much - a nice place for a stroll though. I also once went to investigate the Wren's nest - some fairly easy slabs, but I remember it for the broken glass all round - but that was 30 odd years ago, things might have improved, perhaps worth a visit. Don't forget though, if you time it right for the traffic, you can get to the Roaches fairly quickly.
rydott123 - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: where abouts at kinver did you find?
i tried out the tomb crag there by the rock houses but it was so crumbly it was barely climbable. i think wrens nest is all blocked off now mate, lived there when i was a nipper.
Mark Kemball - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to rydott123: There's some old rock houses (more like caves) below the escarpment about halfway along. It's been years since I was there, so they might not be worth the trouble of a visit.
Andy Clarke - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to rydott123: I think the nearest venue is Brocton on the edge of Cannock Chase. However, I haven't been for a long time and it looks like a fair bit might have fallen down over the last winter. For high quality, if you're prepared to drive further you've got the very good Grinshill and Nescliffe - although I seem to find everything hard for the grade here. I guess I just don't get on well with sandstone. You're getting close to Wales, but you don't have to cross the border! There is an excellent guide to Shropshire Bouldering by Stuart Cathcart but I don't know if it's still available. Of course, if you're prepared to go a bit further you've got the Staffordshire grit, the most beautiful rock in the world.
saffy - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to Andy Clarke: after the main overhang has fallen down I don't even bother going there any more, and I only live 5 mins down the road, never mind traveling from wolves!
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Paulos - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to Andy Clarke:
Think you can still buy from High Sports, Shrewsbury. Shropshire is closest decent bouldering, followed by Churnet Valley, which is a bit further away but not as good as Shropshire imo.

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