/ Anyone being to Frankenjura?
I just came back from a trip to Costa Blanca and although I know the areas are somewhat different I was wondering if its worth a trip?
I climb Sport at 6a and climb VS trad, not an amazing climber but looking to push myself over this summer.
If you need somewhere to climb in midsummer then maybe. Other than that I think there are better areas at that grade.
It has got a lot better in the 18 years I've been going but there's still not a huge amount of well bolted climbs in the lower grades.
I love the place and have been there maybe 15 times but that's mainly cos I've got family connections (and it's near the far superior granite climbing in the Fichtergebirge (runs for cover))
cheers for the reply, would you recommend anywhere that is better for the grades I climb at and is within a days drive from the South of the UK?
I agree. It's a lovely place, and there's a vast amount of really excellent well protected climbing from about 6b upwards, but as is typical for limestone there isn't that much good easy climbing.
If you're pushing your limit at sport 6a (UIAA VI) then you need to be aware that very few routes at that grade in the 'jura are bolted in a manner that you would recognise as "sport climbing". The prevailing ethos/bolting approach on easier tends more towards "why would anybody fall off this? Better put enough bolts in that they just about shouldn't deck from the crux though", and carrying a few supplementary slings & nuts is generally good idea.
As the others have said, the Franken isn´t really the best place for a 6a climber (especially if you have to work or dog the routes at that grade), there are plenty of easier routes but they tend to be dotted all over the place, some are actually even well bolted but these are even more sporadic. If you can get strong and into the 6b+ region then you´d get more out of the trip. It´s also a style of climbing that takes a bit of getting used to so worth spending a bit longer there, the usual visitor gets spanked for the first 3 days and if you have to drop into the 5´s then the Franken is really a bit challenging!
For a shortish trip I´d think about going to Belgium, places like Dave and Bees will get you a bit more accustomed to the non-Costas style and bolting. And near to England as well.
Hi, I agree with the other posters that the focus of climbing in the Frankenjura is at 6a/b and above. Most of the routes put up in the last 15 years (and therefore with a better standard of bolting) seem to be at that level.
However, there are literally thousands of routes, and therefore there are also plenty of safe, well protected sports routes available at lower grades. Obviously, some areas are better for that than others, but I am sure you could climb for days e.g. in the Trubach valley without running out of routes of the kind you are looking for.
Ha! I was up that way 4 weeks ago scraping the mud and moss out of a new trad crad, another esoteric delight in the Bayerisch Wald.
I´ll mail you next time I´m up your way.
Let us know if your over our way and it stops raining.
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