/ Anyone being to Frankenjura?

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
STWright - on 12 Jun 2012
Just wondering if anyone has being to Frankenjura lately?

I just came back from a trip to Costa Blanca and although I know the areas are somewhat different I was wondering if its worth a trip?

I climb Sport at 6a and climb VS trad, not an amazing climber but looking to push myself over this summer.

Cheers Si.
TheGeneralist - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to STWright:
If you need somewhere to climb in midsummer then maybe. Other than that I think there are better areas at that grade.
It has got a lot better in the 18 years I've been going but there's still not a huge amount of well bolted climbs in the lower grades.
I love the place and have been there maybe 15 times but that's mainly cos I've got family connections (and it's near the far superior granite climbing in the Fichtergebirge (runs for cover))
Joughton on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to STWright: Possibly not the best place to go for the grades you're after, simply because there are far better places to go. The routes at 6aish and below are often not fully bolt protected, so what you think is going to be a 6a turns out to be a pretty run-out route above threads which seemed pretty knackered! Also the routes can be a little short and uninspiring... despite that it is a very nice setting and the climbing is usually pretty good. If you do go just remember to pack some stuff for the mosquitos!
STWright - on 12 Jun 2012
What is at Fichtergebirge? Anything closer to my grade?

Cheers Si

STWright - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Joughton:

cheers for the reply, would you recommend anywhere that is better for the grades I climb at and is within a days drive from the South of the UK?

Cheers Si
AlanLittle - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to TheGeneralist:
> not a huge amount of well bolted climbs in the lower grades.

I agree. It's a lovely place, and there's a vast amount of really excellent well protected climbing from about 6b upwards, but as is typical for limestone there isn't that much good easy climbing.

If you're pushing your limit at sport 6a (UIAA VI) then you need to be aware that very few routes at that grade in the 'jura are bolted in a manner that you would recognise as "sport climbing". The prevailing ethos/bolting approach on easier tends more towards "why would anybody fall off this? Better put enough bolts in that they just about shouldn't deck from the crux though", and carrying a few supplementary slings & nuts is generally good idea.
jimtitt - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to STWright:

As the others have said, the Franken isnt really the best place for a 6a climber (especially if you have to work or dog the routes at that grade), there are plenty of easier routes but they tend to be dotted all over the place, some are actually even well bolted but these are even more sporadic. If you can get strong and into the 6b+ region then youd get more out of the trip. Its also a style of climbing that takes a bit of getting used to so worth spending a bit longer there, the usual visitor gets spanked for the first 3 days and if you have to drop into the 5s then the Franken is really a bit challenging!

For a shortish trip Id think about going to Belgium, places like Dave and Bees will get you a bit more accustomed to the non-Costas style and bolting. And near to England as well.
mike1979 - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to STWright: In reply to STWright: The Fichtelgebirge has nice short granit routes with a good proportion in the lower grades. There is probably enough there for a few days but it's not really a big climbing area. The routes are in the Panico guide Ostbayern, but you can also see the topos by clicking on the overview map on this website:

cb294 - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to STWright:

Hi, I agree with the other posters that the focus of climbing in the Frankenjura is at 6a/b and above. Most of the routes put up in the last 15 years (and therefore with a better standard of bolting) seem to be at that level.

However, there are literally thousands of routes, and therefore there are also plenty of safe, well protected sports routes available at lower grades. Obviously, some areas are better for that than others, but I am sure you could climb for days e.g. in the Trubach valley without running out of routes of the kind you are looking for.


nicg - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to mike1979: Fichtelgebirge makes a fun day out if your fingers need a rest from the pockets in the Jura, but I warn you its hit or miss... Have visited a lot of the crags there over the last ten years, some are well bolted and soft graded esp around Cham, others are a bit spaced and felt stiff to me. The new guide is good, but sometimes oversells the crags. I went about four weeks back and I guess we were the first party at that crag this year as you could see the bolts under a nice thick blanket of moss.. Agree with the others, Frankenjura is a fantastic place but better from 6b upwards.
jimtitt - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to nicg:
Ha! I was up that way 4 weeks ago scraping the mud and moss out of a new trad crad, another esoteric delight in the Bayerisch Wald.
Ill mail you next time Im up your way.

nicg - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to jimtitt: Would be good to catch up. Pulled a tendon pretty bad last month so Im off the steep stuff which is a bit of a problem as Im rubbish when it get vertical..

Let us know if your over our way and it stops raining.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.