/ Orpierre advice

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BGG - on 16 Jun 2012
Hi,

going to Orpierre in July and was looking for a bit of advice about getting around and travel.

Can anyone recommend a good hostel nearby or other cheap place to stay?

Also we're flying to Marseille. What's the travel like? Are we likely to need to hire a car or can we get to the area and then around sufficiently well without one?

Thanks.
JLS on 16 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:

Orpierre crags will be pretty darn hot in July but not withstanding are all very accessible by walking from the village.

There are some accommodation ideas on this link...

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/crags/falesia.html?idfalesia=038

The guys that produce the local guide book also rent out (or did) a couple of nice gites.
Gite Vertige sport.

There is a hostely type gite in the next valley about 10km away so realistically you'd need a car for that. I'm pretty sure you can get to within about 12km of Orpierre by train but would need to hitch/taxi the last bit up the valley.
JLS on 16 Jun 2012
In reply to JLS:

Train Marselle to Laragne then 13km to Orpierre....
earlsdonwhu - on 16 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG: Camping Prince of Orange.... got chalets/ mobile homes etc. Pool onsite. Can walk to crags.
Enty - on 16 Jun 2012
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to JLS)
>
> Train Marselle to Laragne then 13km to Orpierre....

And there's a shuttle bus every 20 minutes from the airport to the station - 8

E

BGG - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:

OK thanks for all the advice all.

On the heat point is there somewhere else anyone would recommend in that region that might work better at that time of year given we're flying to Marseille - even if that means hiring a car.

Both of us are outdoor novices who lead about 6a+/6b indoors but somewhere with some low grades to get started would be ideal...

Thanks again for the help everyone.
Enty - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:

We're close to Buis les Baronnies and we always manage to find shady crags and climb all summer. You'll need a car though - about 1h30 from Marseille airport. You could combine with Orp as it's only an hour drive over the hill from Buis.

Malaucene, Groseau - In Shade until 3pm. Best selection of 6's in the area and a few good 5's.

Ubrieux - great in the morning - hot after lunch, lots of good slabby routes for novices from F4 to 6c.

North face of The Dentelles at Gigondas - good selection of grades in a fantastic spot.

North Face St Leger - limited low grades but a handful of 6a's and 6b's - worth 1 day even if you only go there for a swim! (which is where we are going shortly for a climbing/swimming/father's day picnic!!)

Cheers

E
cragspud - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG: Hi an Enty says, Buis is a good option as there are shaded areas. Watch out for St Leger though as if your are high up when the sun comes round you will cook. Hire a car and then you have options. If it is too hot in Provence, form there you can go up to Briancon (another 2 hours) where it will be cooler, but all will be hot and you will end up just climbing in the morning. Plenty of time for wine and cheese.
JLS on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:

It's a three hour plus drive but you could go up to Ailefroide...

One of the many crags there... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2768

I've also been to the stuff around Buis-les-Baronnies. It's nice, if you don't fancy the long drive to Ailefroide and a better bet than Orpierre for finding some shade.
silhouette - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:
> On the heat point is there somewhere else anyone would recommend in that region that might work better at that time of year given we're flying to Marseille - even if that means hiring a car.

Marseilles? There is a beautiful crag at Chateauverte (in the Rockfax Provence guidebook). You would need to research it but I would guess that some of it is in the shade some of the day. There is a municipal campsite at the little nearby town of Correns.
In reply to silhouette:
>
>
> Marseilles? There is a beautiful crag at Chateauverte (in the Rockfax Provence guidebook). You would need to research it but I would guess that some of it is in the shade some of the day. There is a municipal campsite at the little nearby town of Correns.

It is in the Cote d'Azure guide: http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/france-cote-dazur-2010/


Chris
PhilR on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG: Hi, you can probably still climb in Opierre in July, but only in the afternoon. The crags come into the shade from about 13:30. I'm there at the moment and it's about 30 degrees, so we generally chill and relax in the morning and climb from 14:00 onwards (it's light until gone 21:00). The Cascade sector gets quite a bit of shade first and the overhanging parts of Chateau Right next. But as all the other posts say, there are heaps of other areas to choose from! Have fun. Cheers, P.
PeakDJ on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:

I have climbed in Orpierre in July and August and it's absolutely fine in the shade.
BGG - on 17 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG: thanks all - really helpful. Sounds like there are loads of options there - can't wait.

Scott_vzr on 17 Jun 2012
The sector that faces the Prince Orange Campsite, has 40m 6as/bs and normally gets the wind. I was last there a while ago, ahem 1999.
Climbapedia - on 18 Jun 2012
Lots of info on the crags around Orpierre can be found here:

http://www.climbapedia.com/en/plan/

Click on the region Ceuse / Lower Durance Valley and drag the map around / zoom in as required. Also links for good places to stay in the area.

Also a couple of articles here:

http://www.climbapedia.com/en/articles/orpierre-sunny-climbing-where-the-alps-meet-the-med/

http://www.climbapedia.com/en/articles/orpierre-multi-pitch-sport-climbing/

As Enty said, heading West (from Orpierre) towards Buis would give you lots of options for shade. Drag the map across to visit that region.

Car not essential if you only go to Orpierre but would be a good idea if you want to visit other places.
BGG - on 24 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG: one final question on orpierre. My climbing partner and I currently have no rope longer than 60m. Couple of places online (e.g. climbapedia) say a 70m is needed for orpierre. Will a 60m be fine for the majority of single pitch routes below say 6b or will it massively limit our options? Thanks again for all the help.
JLS on 24 Jun 2012
In reply to BGG:

60m will be fine for most stuff there.
Climbapedia - on 24 Jun 2012
You will get away with a 60m rope but some of the best routes, especially in the 6a - 6b range need a 70m.

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