/ Orpierre advice
going to Orpierre in July and was looking for a bit of advice about getting around and travel.
Can anyone recommend a good hostel nearby or other cheap place to stay?
Also we're flying to Marseille. What's the travel like? Are we likely to need to hire a car or can we get to the area and then around sufficiently well without one?
Orpierre crags will be pretty darn hot in July but not withstanding are all very accessible by walking from the village.
There are some accommodation ideas on this link...
The guys that produce the local guide book also rent out (or did) a couple of nice gites.
Gite Vertige sport.
There is a hostely type gite in the next valley about 10km away so realistically you'd need a car for that. I'm pretty sure you can get to within about 12km of Orpierre by train but would need to hitch/taxi the last bit up the valley.
Train Marselle to Laragne then 13km to Orpierre....
> Train Marselle to Laragne then 13km to Orpierre....
And there's a shuttle bus every 20 minutes from the airport to the station - 8€
OK thanks for all the advice all.
On the heat point is there somewhere else anyone would recommend in that region that might work better at that time of year given we're flying to Marseille - even if that means hiring a car.
Both of us are outdoor novices who lead about 6a+/6b indoors but somewhere with some low grades to get started would be ideal...
Thanks again for the help everyone.
We're close to Buis les Baronnies and we always manage to find shady crags and climb all summer. You'll need a car though - about 1h30 from Marseille airport. You could combine with Orp as it's only an hour drive over the hill from Buis.
Malaucene, Groseau - In Shade until 3pm. Best selection of 6's in the area and a few good 5's.
Ubrieux - great in the morning - hot after lunch, lots of good slabby routes for novices from F4 to 6c.
North face of The Dentelles at Gigondas - good selection of grades in a fantastic spot.
North Face St Leger - limited low grades but a handful of 6a's and 6b's - worth 1 day even if you only go there for a swim! (which is where we are going shortly for a climbing/swimming/father's day picnic!!)
It's a three hour plus drive but you could go up to Ailefroide...
One of the many crags there... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2768
I've also been to the stuff around Buis-les-Baronnies. It's nice, if you don't fancy the long drive to Ailefroide and a better bet than Orpierre for finding some shade.
Marseilles? There is a beautiful crag at Chateauverte (in the Rockfax Provence guidebook). You would need to research it but I would guess that some of it is in the shade some of the day. There is a municipal campsite at the little nearby town of Correns.
> Marseilles? There is a beautiful crag at Chateauverte (in the Rockfax Provence guidebook). You would need to research it but I would guess that some of it is in the shade some of the day. There is a municipal campsite at the little nearby town of Correns.
It is in the Cote d'Azure guide: http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/france-cote-dazur-2010/
I have climbed in Orpierre in July and August and it's absolutely fine in the shade.
Click on the region Ceuse / Lower Durance Valley and drag the map around / zoom in as required. Also links for good places to stay in the area.
Also a couple of articles here:
As Enty said, heading West (from Orpierre) towards Buis would give you lots of options for shade. Drag the map across to visit that region.
Car not essential if you only go to Orpierre but would be a good idea if you want to visit other places.
60m will be fine for most stuff there.
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