/ UKC fit club 275
It’s been great to see people achieving their goals. Joughton’s E5 and Quiddity’s 8a stand out as obvious examples. Keep training hard.
I may have the chance to post, but my next planned one is 26/Aug, so see you then.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (274) thread:
Grubes – ouch, go easy then. Could you put a few days between your last boulder session and Malham? It shouldn’t hold you back on Pembroke slabs. Have a great time.
Biscuit – Good work with the diet, hope you manage to sustain that.
Quiddity – You’re probably right about doing routes quickly for a change, I expect your on sighting skills will improve a lot.
Eagle River – Sounds like a strong week.
Leon – Good training mate, and enough variety that you’ll *probably* avoid injury
The New Nick B – Cool, good luck running again.
AJM – Great stuff Andy, nice to see progression on the campus board still. Maybe Draggin’ Along will be ticked by the time I get back to fit club!
Mr Chewey – Looking forward to hearing about the Ultra!
Kevster – Hope find some inspiration in North Wales
Migs493 – Sounds like a good week. Good work packing all the extra runs in around climbing training.
Mattrm – Hope you manage to convince your wife that the diet is sustainable. Positive vibes for recovery
IainRUK – What a brilliant 10 mile time, well done. I’ve often dreamt of running 10miles in an hour but I think climbing stole all my motivation for the hard work involved.
Nomics4Sale – Don’t worry about seconding the E1, just seconding a Gogarth E1 has got to be a good experience! Well done on the 6c flash.
MNM – Looks like a good week to be but their your goals. Hope you manage to get 30miles in now.
Liam M – Good luck on 10K
Hokkyokusei – Congrats on the bonus PB! Maybe you’re concept of hard needs to increase a bit. 23:00 next?
Markez – Welcome Mark. Sounds like some useful fingerboard sessions. Do you have any goals you’re working toward?
Ian Bell – Sounds like a good training plan for Kaly.
IanT – More 6as, good news
Ayuplass – Good weight management week :P Hope you stay well and find the energy to train.
SeanKenny – Well done on the 6c onsights, solid.
Steve John B – Respect for being so disciplined with rehab.
Sankey – Good mileage. Hope you get some more climbing in.
Mr-Cowdrey – Nice set of goals there. I’ll enjoy reading as you play out your 22 week training plan! Good luck
Liz J - Not a bad 8 mile time. Surely you could fit a couple more in a week so you can be strong next Sat? Good luck anyhow.
Curious Yellow – Quiet week
Ali – Sorry to hear about all the niggles. Maybe something completely different like swimming would help with recovery (just a suggestion)?
Stone Donkey – Stanage to Curbar is bound to make you feel intimidated! Curbar’s quite a hard place, I’ve probably fallen off as many routes as I haven’t there. Great work top roping Canoe - If you can do a 6a move on toprope, surely you could lead a bit harder than VS (all the classic HVS 5as at Froggatt spring to mind) Have fun
M-Woodie Sesh, no structure but getting pumped on carious circuit combinations.
T-6.7 hilly miles in boots. Slow but included several sets of 20 press ups.
W-Boulevard E3 6a onsight (my first E3 onsight) Was a real fight after getting too pumped on the first moves. Gave me a good feel for what High Street must be like, progressing naturally toward London Wall. Didn't want to risk High St yet as I felt I would blow it
Then Flashed Tea for Two, E4 6a. Made my week, I was faffing a lot and reversed the first crux a few times, but eventually committed.
Video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsC9MICnN_w
T-Tried to train but knacered from Wed. Probably a good thing to be tired from outdoor climbing
F-Run, 5.4km in 21:30. Fasted run in a long time, makes a change from plodding around in boots :P
S-Derby bouldering, good session
S-plan to do press ups.
Now a couple of bouldering sessions planned, then I've got to get myself outdoors for a last effort before I leave for a month.
So happy with T4T. My 3rd E4 flash, but much more convincing than my other two. I think it deserves the grade.
Not much to report this week, as I've only actually climbed twice, but I was in the YCS National Finals yesterday so it's a big post!
Mon - revision
Tue - Maths exam
Wed - Physics exam - no more exams! Went out for a bit to celebrate then headed to the wall to do some last minute route training because my endurance was a little low after a bit of a training lay off.
Thurs - rest, chilled at home and enjoyed the freedom of no exams!
Fri - Tried to get myself psyched, headed up to Edinburgh.
Sat - YCS Final, Ratho. At first I was quite intimidated by the size of the comp walls, but looking at my routes I saw that they seemed to suit me quite well - nothing too steep, and quite technical. To start we did the first two boulders, which nearly everyone flashed. I then had an hour long wait before I could get on my first route, and watching various people all fall off at the same point got me pretty nervous. It turned out to be a 7a, which I got fairly easily but I arrived at the top pretty pumped. A mix up then lead to us doing the hardest route straight after. I climbed well, made it further than anyone else in my half of the category, then slipped off the last hold, which was painfully annoying. Even so it was great to have the crowd behind me and for about an hour, I was first in the rankings. Then I went on to the last problem, and the other half of my category went onto the last route. Due to getting the sequence mixed up, I performed poorly on the boulder relative to how I did on the route, and the last route recieved two flashes, dropping me down the rankings. In the end I finished in 7th out of 33, which I was fairly happy with but only one point off sixth, and four points off fourth place (I got 387 out of 400) which left me frustrated at not topping that crux route.
So in the past couple of months I feel like I've achieved most of my mid-to-long term goals - onsight E5, climbed 7c and achieve top six in a national competition (seventh is close enough). Also, looking over the results I realised if it had been based purely on routes I would have finished third which is a nice thought, and gives me a bit of confidence for the BLCC's in October.
Sorry for the essay! Jake
Nicely done. Once you committed it looked like you went for it with conviction. However get a sober mate to film it next time i felt ill watching some of that due to the waving about ;0)
Hope your trip goes well.
Not much to report for me this week. Toning up is still going well.I've run every day bar 1 and for up to 40 mins this time. I seem to stagnate for a few days and then suddenly drop. Finally got a reading in the 11%'s today. It was 11.9% but it's still an 11.
I've climbed a few routes with work up to 6a+ with no elbow problems so that's got to be good. I was really worried at the start of the week as it didn't seem to be showing any improvement but it's feeling much better now.
I go back to the UK on Thursday for the best part of 2 weeks and will aim to run every day and keep on with watching the quality of what i eat. I have one day free to go tradding in the Lakes ( weather permitting ) and may get a couple of visits in to climb rochdale.
I aim to be in the 10%'s when i get back.
Amazing result Jake, well done. Often when people step up a level they can get a rude awakening. Going from being the best ( or one of the best ) in your age group regionally it can be really hard to take it to national level and discover you're maybe not as good as you thought. You obviously are that good :0)
Pat on the back well deserved. Just the exam results to wait for now :0(
Rested all week, just some stretching and all the little niggles in the legs disappeared - just this sore heal I've had for a few weeks now.
Friday - Gentle swim and stretching session at the hotel pre ultra.
Saturday - Ultra Run. 5hr first 40k, 7hrs to halfway pitstop at 32 miles. On target for 17hrs. Had a good feed, changed socks, trainers etc and then ran really well to 43 miles. Tom who I'd ran with a bit, turned up at a water station looking well rough, so I lent him my stashed poles and walked with him for a couple of hours. Knew this would blow my target but it was the right thing to do. Left ankle swole due to calf guard and Tom stuck by me, the camaraderie over the event was amazing. We hobbled together after that till the finish line. Gritty lad.
Sunday - Finished in 20hrs 26min, so well happy with that. Full respect to the winner - 10hrs 10min!!!
Chuffed to bits to be honest - felt a fraud as an ultra runner, as walked the latter part but ran the first 43 miles (except the hills as per plan) and felt really with it from 32 to 40. 'Time on feet' training served me well but I needed runner's quads, not mountain legs. No injuries to report, just achy feet, so it's time to focus on other stuff.
Need to set some goals for the next 6 months now but I'll think about that in the week.
Fit Club really helped, much appreciated and thanks to everyone who posts.
In reply to Daniel Heath: good effort on Tea for Two, I've been wanting to do it for ages but I don't think I'm brave enough to commit to a 6a move with the only decent gear a few metres beneath my feet.
In reply to biscuit: cheers mate, it certainly felt like a step up fromn the regionals, especially with how much better everyone was at bouldering than me! We'll have to see how the Bouldering Championships turn out in a couple of weeks to see if I'm as bad as I think I am! Hopefully the problems will be a little less thuggy and a little more technical.
Nice to see you even analyse all the results looking for positives - thoroughness like that will bring the placings you want.
A good week all round so far eh?
MCC Tues: Volume/quality of bouldering poor for me and traverses too straight-forward. A lack of other facilities to train what I want. Got in on some top roping but uncomfortable and not a lot done. Poor.
Fingerboard session A Thu: Strong.
Fingerboard session B Sat: Strong.
Next week: Same plan. Need to see if fingerboard sessions - as they are now - are too easy.
Right now, the fingerboard and other things are more interesting than climbing so...
STG: Keep climbing.
MTG: Indoor lead 7b+.
LTG: Climb real rock.
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
M - 6.23m treadmill, 0ft.
Injured my ankle on Monday. I'm a bit unsure exactly how I have done it. Saw my physio on Thursday and have another appointment next Tuesday. A bit gutted because I have races coming up and a BG support next weekend. I'm walking without pain now today so hopefully will be ok for next weekend.
m: steady 10 mile road run then 31 miles on the road bike.
t: rest.. strangely not motivation... worrying.. had physio, good massage. 3rd rest day in 111 days.. can't keep backing off like this...
w: 10 mile run with 15 mins of speed reps, then 31 miles on the road bike.
t: Fell run, 11 miles, 1000m, ascent, Wyddfa.
f: 6.5 mile run, 4 x 4 min hill reps in that.
s: 12 mile trail run, 500m ascent.
s: Kinder Trog. 16 mile fell race. 2 mile warm up. 8th 1:59, felt good.
UKC won't let me post only capitals so i'll have to say something else too. I couldn't walk for 2 days after mine.
Great effort and just reward for what you put into it.
Thanks for the socks advice, they and the vaseline worked brilliantly. A small blister appeared on each foot due to wading through foot deep water in places but I had the best feet I saw during the latter stages of the event.
Hilly Twin Skin socks and a tub of vaseline. Work of the gods.
Don't know about just reward - I could/should/wish I'd trained more, having said that, there were some seriously under prepared people.
So kudos to some of the chaps above - E4, national comp and an ultra - all excellent efforts.
STG: Good routes in Pembroke (or wherever) next weekend.
General goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap.
T: Laps at WW. 3m30s on, 3m30s - 4m30s off. 4th lap managed about 2m40. 5th lap managed about 2m30s. Felt knackered and like I'm going backwards on this exercise.
W: Swimming with my gf, in the outside pool on a summer's evening. Ace!
T: Knackered, rest.
F: Knackered, more rest.
S: Planned to go to the wall, sacked it off (see previous two days).
S: 9.5 mile walk on South Downs with my cousin, training for his DofE next week. Super-relaxing.
I guess every so often you should plan in an easy week right? Well I guess my body ordered it for this week, so I submitted and took it relatively easy. Shoulder feeling a bit tweaky so have been doing lots of exercises for that.
Hope to be back on it this week, got a couple of wall sessions planned and a weekend in Pembroke if the weather plays ball...
Awesome effort on the ultra. Sounds emotional. I bet you're happy to have stuck with your chum as he could return the favour later on.
Great news Jake! It looks like you've improved really fast, and your performance curve hasn't plateaued yet. Looking forward to watching your progress in the future.
About Tea for Two I guess I've just gotta say go for it.
With an attentive belayer you won't hit the ground and the fall is clean.
As soon as I found a crucial hold (that I was blind to miss) it was solid, and I think if my feet had slipped at any point I would have held it.
So you're risk analysis looks like: Tiny chance of falling x Small to no chance of serious injury.
Go for it :P
> Thanks Dan
> Nicely done. Once you committed it looked like you went for it with conviction. However get a sober mate to film it next time i felt ill watching some of that due to the waving about ;0)
It's funny you say that, we did take beer to the crag!
I think it was the midges though, which I can't blame him for itching.
I have loads of gratitude for my belayer who stood in his shorts being eaten. I would have been getting pretty angry!
Ditto from me - well done guys!
- Strength/power training indoors to complement outdoor rock miles
- Pocket focus on fingerboard
- 10% body fat (racing weight)
- Bike odometer record - 613km
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - before October sport trip
- Maintain fitness and sport head
- Tick some more of the pyramid, including trying at least one 7c+ [done: 1 7c+]
<MTG> - 2012
- Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 7/8 x 7b, 2/4 x 7b+, 1/2 x 7c, 1/1 x 7c+)
- 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 6x E2 onsight]
- 7a+ onsight
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
Only had one real climbing session out this week which was an evening out on Wednesday night. Put the clips in Dragging' Along (solo self belay whilst waiting for my partner to show!).
- First redpoint, not powered up enough, fell off the crux move. Tried it a few more times and did the move, felt better warmed up.
- Second redpoint, got through the crux, past the lip, couldn't quite get foot settled and right hand settled, popped for the hold at the end of the crux, missed, fell off.
- Third redpoint, got through the crux, got foot settled, had crimp properly, hit better holds, and then promptly fell off in a fit of over excitement. NOOOO! Screams of rage.
- Fourth redpoint, got through the crux, made the nightmare clip at the lip, pulled onto the headwall, got to the good holds at the end of the crux, and this time wobbled my way up the "easy bit" to the chains. YYFY!!!
- since my partner had ticked too we bailed down the road to the pub. By the time we had bought our pints it was pissing it down - very fortuitous timing!
The upcoming closure was preying on my mind a bit by this point too, and the failing so high up was starting to frustrate, so I think it was the right time for so many reasons :) 5 sessions, and this was 11th redpoint in the end.
After that I gleefully leapt off the training/dieting bandwagon and have had about 4 days of eating too much, drinking too much and not training. Awesome fun :)
So what next for me then..... This week I'm hoping to get up onto Sunset Buttress, which I've never been to before, and try a nice looking 7a+ there. This side of the road closes this coming weekend so no time to start anything big, just going to chill, have a look at this route, see what it's like. Then evening sessions after that will switch focus to the other side of the road. My friend fancies heading up to Heart Leaf and doing some of the cool exposed stuff up there - there's a 7c which gets good reviews so I might try that.
In general I want to plug away at the pyramid really. Then start getting some of the ground work done for next years 8a pyramid. Would be good to do some routes that aren't "boulder start, resistance/easier top", something more sustained or with a high crux perhaps would be good for me I reckon, if perhaps a bit more frustrating. Also going to try and spend more weekends focusing on the trad rather than sport climbing at weekends - got some trips coming up which I'm well psyched for.
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Trad road trip goal not no happening as off to the Alps for some multipitch.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep
Lazy for me this week.
M - Trip to the Biscuit Factory 20 ish V1-V3. Around a dozen of the V3-V5 problems. Spent a while working on that must have been cV5 but didn't manage it.
S - Castle routes. Tired, hungover and hay fever so rubbish session!
Not enough climbing at present. Job hunting and thats taking a lot of time. Hopefully Pembroke next weekend.
Right, second half starting. Come on England!
Well done on the E3 and E4. Joughton - congrats on the comp. Mrchewy - WOOO!!! So glad you did it. The feeling of 'I'm not an ultra runner really' is similar to what I felt. Glad there's no injury worries.
Thanks for the stats Dan. Hope you enjoy your trip away.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, DQS week avg 20 or better - TICK
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - No idea, scales haven't surfaced yet - will buy some new ones this week.
M - F - Knee rehab
S - DIY (10 hours sanding floors)
S - 2 hours at climbing wall
Diet Quality Scores
M - 18
T - 20
W - 21
T - 21
F - 20
S - n/a
S - 21 (might be 23 if I get peckish tho)
Avg - 20+
Got a solid 6a onsight with no beta. Pretty sure that's a first at a climbing wall for me. Wouldn't say I cruised it but it really wasn't mega hard. But then I can generally top-rope 6a outdoors, so that's not surprising. Next time I'm at the wall doing routes, need to get on some 6bs. But bearing in mind it's been a year+ since I last did routes at the wall, that might not be soon. Diet is going well, no idea what my weight is however, I do feel like I'm loosing weight tho. Really need to find/buy some scales. Well I hope I am. If I get on the scales and I'm not very close to/under 12st I will be gutted. Steady progress I think. Going to keep it up till the Alps and see how it's going then, if I'm around 11st, I'll probably leave off it for a while. Much better week this week than the last few weeks. Went out climbing on Wednesday, but got rained off. Going to the Eden Project in Cornwall next weekend to see Frank Turner play. Don't think I'll get any walking training in for the Alps, so that's gonna be painful.
Good scores !
I'm back on the DQS after reading your post a couple of weeks back. It really helps keep you focused i find. It's harder than it looks.
Where's the diet score from?
Sounds interesting, wouldn't mind a read.
YYFY Andy!! Get in. Half a grade to the treasure. :-)
Great work Andy, looks like you made pretty swift work of it.
Racing Weight by Matt Fitzgerald. Basically food is split up in to categorys, 'good' and 'bad'. The good stuff gets you points and the bad takes points away. If you just ate all good you'd get 29 points. The idea is to improve the quality by getting as close to 20 as possible. If you eat too much of stuff that's good for you, that does eventually go negative. First two portions of whole grain are +2 each, but the 3rd is +1.
Good - Fruit, Veg, Lean Protein, Low fat dairy, Essential fats, Whole Grain
Bad - Sweet, Refined grain, fatty protein, full fat diary
This is how yesterday worked out:
Low Fat Yoghurt (low fat dairy) - +1
Fruit - +2
2 eggs - +2 (first two eggs of the day count as lean protein.)
2 small wholemeal rolls - +4 (2 portions I reckon)
Salad - +2
Tuna - +2 (fish = essential fats)
Chilli - with lean mince so +3 (lean protein)
Brown rice - +1
Sweetcorn - +2
Low fat yogurt - +1
Fruit - +2
So that's 22 points there. It's working ok atm. Pretty easy to follow once you get into it. And you can fill yourself up on fruit and veg quite easily. The book is good, well worth a read if you can get hold of a copy.
Nice one Andy, great news. Hope you enjoyed the binging :0)
It i saimed at endurance athletes but for the the DQS section was worth the money alone.
I'm not keeping a score as such this time round but i know what's 'in' and what's not and it really helps your will power. I've not been dieting just improved the quality of my diet and doing some running and it's working.
Nice effort on the E3 & E4 ticks.
My week started slowly and to be honest although I was heading for N Wales at the end of the week I was really pessimistic about the chances of getting anything decent done.
M - Weights
T - 1 Hr Pilates, 1.5 Hr Bouldering
W - Run 40 mins, Routes outdoors - frustrating couldn't get started on a 7a and fluffed an onsight on 6c (got the RP second go)
T - Weights - too tired to focus on the session
F - Couple of problems outdoors up to 6b
S - Bouldering at Porth Ysgo couple of worked 6b's, Trad at Tremadog first E2 this year. Very relaxed and felt easy.
S - 2nd E2 of the year (on slate) again very relaxed and very satisfying.
Good end to an indifferent week and it would appear that all the training is working. Hopefully the weather will improve and I can get out on rock this week!
Biscuit: I certainly did! Nice dinner with Ali on Thursday. Went to the Lakes at the weekend, spent lots of time drinking and catching up with friends, and did a nice low level walk (to a pub!) and spent a few hours checking out Hodge Close and the new dry tooling crag in the pissing rain. Put on about a kilo, which feels like a very good trade for the amount of food and drink I packed in!
Back on the bandwagon this week though, get back down to fighting weight in preparation for the next siege...;)
Yes, I think you're right!
t: Digging 2hrs burying a cat :(
w: Road running 5.25 km
t: Trail running 5 km
s: Cycling 17.67 km
Won't be posting next week as I'll be circumnavigating The Lakes on foot :)
Congratulations Andy! Awesome effort. I for one appreciate the value in building a decent pyramid but perhaps you should keep cracking on - given your current form and how you were looking on RHM (ie. not that far off doing it), it seems like with some effort you could do it this autumn/winter rather than next year?
Enjoy chilling out for now anyway.
That's a 7c+ right? Nice one. 8a next then? Well done, great effort.
Not much done this last week - mostly mucking around but lots of time spent contemplating what a new training plan for getting stronger is likely to look like. Really enjoyable weekend but quite low motivation. Bit aimless. Weight is ballooning alarmingly. Need to pull my finger out and get back on it really.
For anyone bored on a monday morning and looking to kill some time, I have written a little bit about my fighting torque experience:
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Learn to drive
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.
Contemplate 8a+ pyramid
M: Castle - boulder. ticked some resistant problems on the mezz and in the pen around V4/5. More time working on the hard V5s in there.
T: Biscuit factory. Threshold boulder session. More attempts on comp V6 - no discernible progress. specific muscles needed for this starting to tire quite early on. Picked a yellow (v6-8?) and started trying to string moves together - managed to do perhaps half the moves, perhaps one or two moves at a time. Really psyched for it, it's a very cool problem.
W: Castle - Lead, easyish session. finished up with laps up the 6b on 17.5 - getting quite pumped on this currently. Short weights sesh. Beastmaker - pulley session. Experimenting with assistance needed for various max hangs (ie. 1 rep at 3-5 seconds)
T: Deadlifts - first time doing these, mostly focussing on drilling technique. Pyramid set up to 40kg. Beastmaker - max hangs.
S: Cuttings. warmed up on too many cooks, the sod, and mindmeld. bolt to bolt and 2 redpoint goes on nightmare scenario. Got some good links and took a couple of good lobs off the crux. It's been a while since I've done something quite as sustained as this - two consecutive clips worth of crux climbing where I have to make some quite low percentage crux moves to get quite high on the bolt before I can take a hand off to clip. I seem to be ok now at psyching up to do one clip worth of crux climbing above a big lob but two in a row is proving quite a mental challenge. Psyched for it now.
S: Cuttings. Finger feeling a bit tweaky from NS and conditions generally not that great. Had a dog up Breathing Method to see what it was like. Couldn't even pull on on the crux. Some very powerful moves off VERY poor holds. Worryingly, the infamous mono is like the best hold on it. Conditions not helping - want to have another look when it's in better nick - but I need to be a LOT stronger for this to be a feasible proposition. Stripped clips out, had a look at Unknown Arete, which is a bit one star, but after two blown redpoints I seem to have found some psyche for it - it's got good rock and quite nice moves. keen to get it done next visit.
Dan, thanks for the comments and thread. Have a good trip.
STG: Lead E1, RP 7a+, hard circuit at Ingleton
MTG: do trek
LTG: onsight 6c/6c+ in November
Tues: Trollers Gill, TR Angel Dust 7a+. Got a sequence which I think will work for me.
Wed: 5 mile trail run White Coppice
Thurs: Ingleton bouldering, getting closer to doing the hard circuit
Sat: 10 mile trail run Forest of Bowland.
Sun: Ingleton wall for routes. Onsight up to 6c+ and 7a with a gazillion rests.
Weather this weekend scuppered outdoor climbing plans. How much rain?? Hummph.
Awesome effort Dan. Really inspiring. That's a cool tick!
Hey. Your BG support next weekend, that's not for Rob in Matlock is it? I'm planning to be around for his final leg next weekend. Not exactly support, I'm not up to that, more cheerleader. Thought I'd check whether he's your BG man too...
Gotta say, that's hugely impressive. I can't imagine how it would be to do an ultra, well done. Even more impressive cos you're not in bits apart from achy feet!
And a fantastic way to start your trip away, having had some amazing ticks just before you go! Sets you up really well mentally.
> Your BG support next weekend, that's not for Rob in Matlock is it?
No, not Rob. Might see you and your lot though......
Ours is a 6.30pm'ish start on Saturday, clockwise.
I might end up as Cheerleader if I can't sort my ankle.
Supposed to be doing leg 3, and then thought I might reverse leg 5 to run the last bit also. I might rest all week because I desperately want to run leg 3.
Fingers crossed your ankle is sorted in time. Is leg 3 Dunmail Raise to Wasdale? Rob's allowing 6 hours for that one. Looks like a big one!
Thanks, yes - it is a tough leg.
We recced it at the start of May in about 6h 45mins. So should be a bit quicker now we know it.
I had originally thought I would do 2 legs but having run leg 3 that is definitely enough!
> For anyone bored on a monday morning and looking to kill some time, I have written a little bit about my fighting torque experience:
Love the flowchart on there Nick :p
Erm well 1 leg is more than enough! Maybe see you out there. Hope the weather is ok for it, Rob's done a lot of training it would be so disappointing for him to have to call it off cos of the weather. Anyway, not going to tempt fate by entertaining that thought!
Great article, thanks for writing that. It's cool to read the progression of the mental burden leading to the last day of the trip syndrome, when it suddenly felt easy.
Gets me a little psysched for a hard redpoint, although probably in the distant future.
Thanks Nick - I have to say though that's a lot more flattering assessment of my work on RHM than I would have given ;)!
Turns out Charles was on Circus Circus yesterday so we might be changing the north slope projecting arena to the lion rock/remnant area. Keen to do CC and VotB, but if somehow I finish those in super quick time I'll give it another look. It would be amazing to do this year but would require a FT-length siege I suspect and I'm not sure I've got the mental stamina for that right now...!
Liked your writing by the way, could definitely relate to a lot of those feelings!
That's right yes - thanks!
How the hell do people do the Spartathlon?!
Quiddity - loved the blog. Great piece of writing there. I really ought to do a similar plan for my goals, rather than setting them and just kinda hoping that I get the time out on rock to do it all.
Mrchewy - :D Really glad you did it. Been really hoping you'd get it done.
AJM - I got the impression it was a big thing, but didn't know the route or grade, so had to check. Dead impressive I have to say 7c+, that's pretty mega.
MASSIVE week for the fit club. Huge congrats to Andy (AJM), Jake and MrChewy.
Looking forward to reading the Fighting Torque essay, I'll wait till I'm back at work tomorrow for that one :-)
In comparison, my climbing week was pathetic. Went indoor bouldering on Monday when, considering the threatening skies didn't actually rain until 10pm, I could've got outdoors. Then instead of a routes session indoors on wed I had to go back to the bouldering wall that I'd left my jumper at on monday. Dick. However, I did tick off the 7c+ circuit thing (went from feeling impossible the first session to getting round it on my 4th session). Under no impression that I'm a 7c+ climber but it's always nice to piece things together that felt hard initially.
My run of non-climbing weekends is over so I have the potential to get outdoors both of the next weekends and I'm off for the whole week in between so if I don't come back with some decent 7b/7b+ ticks by fitclub week 277 either it's been raining constantly or I'm terrible at climbing.
Seriously, well done. My, non technical, climbing advice - forget the pyramid for a bit and pick a soft touch and your style 8a and get it done! You'll get sandbagged many times in your climbing career, so you may as well have it your way for once!
Not the milestone that 8a is, unless of course you convert to yank and call it 5.13a ;)
mrchewy, once I'm done with the grades I'll see if I can pass them on second hand ;)
It's ALL about flow charts. Flow charts and spreadsheets :-D
Have a great time in the US Dan.
Congrats again Andy. I have some catching up to do before our next sport trip.
I'm back from honeymoon now, had a great time at both wedding and honeymoon, and will now be trying to hit the training again and climbing regularly, so will post properly again from next week. Some friends are in the Pass this weekend I might have a date with Foil on Sunday if weather, partners and psyche all combine the right way.
Have put on about 2 pounds over honeymoon which isn't bad considering how much I ate and drank. There was a good 1.5 knuckle edge above the bathroom door in our suite so I did a lot of hangs and chin-ups!
Cheers Si! Who knows if Nick gets his way it might involve even more catching up. Just remind yourself that if a weak punter like me can do it, so can you ;)
When is the next one anyway - you any interest in Nov or are you out of holiday
So GUCR next year?
I'm staring at horrific bruising on my lower shins this arvo, so waiting for the sports physio to ring back. Tops of feet are swollen badly, so icing well, compression and hoping there's no serious damage. Good to know you're running again.
I had no understanding of what you went through and even after 70 miles, I'm sure I still have very little. THAT was a top effort Nick. Every time I went for a pee (lots), I thought of you and your 70 or 80 haha. Odd the things that come to mind .
T: Climbing at fairy cave quarry. 2xE1 + 1xE2 onsight, then returned to Lead an E4 which i had previoisly top roped about a year ago. Did it clean with no falls!! Was pretty happy with that.
W: Short weight sessio to determine the weights and reps for the new programme starting next week.
S: 25mile march with the cadets. Training for an Event we have in 3weeks in Holland.
S: 15mile march.
Overall, pretty happy with the lazy week. Now to organise all my free weekends to get climbing and achieve these goals of mine. Also, working out my strengths and weaknesses for training.
Bit of a busy week, and hence a quiet one exercise wise!
M - nothing
T - helped out at orienteering race - jogged about 6km ish at slow pace
W - nothing
T - woke up in pain - neck and upper back hurting a lot. Had an appointment booked with osteo who suggested not climbing :o( Not happy bunny. However, took running stuff to work and ran park race in the evening (5.3km, 34mins) which didn't seem to agrevate it at all
F - had planned to do a climbing session, but back still feeling painful so went for a short (30min) run instead
S - nothing - well unless you count Boris Biking round London :o)
S - 11mile walk, 2 pub stops, 1 bowl of chips!
So I seem to be breaking myself more each week, though not sure exactly how! Have got a doc's appointment booked tomorrow so hoping to get a referral to physio for my elbow, and back at this rate as well! Though I don't want to aggrevate niggles, this resting isn't really helping towards my short term goals.
Congrats on the E4!
Proper achievement that, good one. Before, I'd have thought 'wow' but now I know what everyone goes through, I can be truly sincere in saying 'I'm impressed'.
There's been some amazing stuff this week gone on by the climbers... another E4! Fit club is rocking!
It was a great experience that was full of highs and lows and i'd love to do another one one day. I've always been naturally better at running than climbing but my motivation is very much in climbing at the moment.
Not as tough as you may think due to the kinder terrain under foot. That much tarmac bashing must be like purgatory.
Probably too soon for planning another one but it's a lovely run through a beautiful place.
Well done on the E4.
Are you off for the niemeggen marches ? Great event that.
Weight loss is going well, using my continuing lack of appetite to get back on a diet again
Mon - rest
Tues - 20 min circuit & 30 min bouldering
Weds - nowt
Thurs - 20 min circuit AM Leeds wall PM - led new 4+ and 5
Fri - nowt
Sat - 1 hour bouldering & auto belay laps
Sun - 15 mile MTB ride over salter fell, forest of Bowland
not a brilliant week, but not the worst either. Lost 3 lb
"but it's a lovely run through a beautiful place."
I know what you mean there - we had a proper steep hill to climb after the halfway stop, hands on grass stuff, it topped out at what was a Roman beacon point about Vindolanda. I just took a moment to soak it all in, it was some view from up there, escarpments running off into the distance and typical British rolling hillside. Then it was a grass ridge run for a while - best bit of the whole race for me, everything just all cemented together well.
Having said that, running through some of the villages and towns on the way like Hexham - some top architecture.
It's talk like that that will make people think you enjoyed it ;0)
Once was enough for me. It was pretty cool though. It seems to have got massive, i just googled it. It was 20 yrs ago that i did it though. Oh dear now i feel old !
Quiet week recovering from Skye.
T: Road bike 10 miles after work
S: Ran 4.6 miles off road (9 min pace)
S: 2 hours @ Matrix, up to Font 6a+
STG: Running and limestone trad to get ready for Dolomites/Alps trip
MTG: < 50 min 10 k
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5
Will keep you posted re Siurana yes. Ceuse definitely in the calendar, psyched for it already!
Better week getting back into some gentle running
Sunday - 5 mile trail/hill run
Tuesday - 5 mile trail/ hill run
Wednesday - 4 mile trail run
Sunday - 10 mile trail/ hill run
Hilly 5k hill race this tomorrow. Hoping to get close to 21mins. Hard course on Tarmac.
Need to think about some medium to long term goals
Medium - 2 more Scottish hill racing 'long classics' hill races this season.
Long term - Tranter's round and possibly Mullardoch round next summer!
Nice to see people getting out there and putting the effort in, where to go next?
Had to sack off the north wales trip as the weather was forecast to be too poor to warrant the journey etc. Ended up getting a few hours in at Brean, no ticks to remark on, though did work a sequence for chilula that I can do without simply campusing the pockets (which I can hardly do).
Besides the nice afternoon outside on sunday, I climbed 3 times indoors. Which felt physical, so must be doing some work!
This coming week: indoors once, try to get a run/other exercise in and then aim to get away trad climbing at the weekend. Looking to get on some E's as its been a while since I've trad climbed now. Good to get back on it.
STG: E3 (time for tea?) and 7c (Hall of mirrors)
MTG: get on 7c+ & 8a, Get steady at E2
LTG: Tick 8a
Cheers Dan, YEah it was a stupid idea but agree to meet a mate at the works and not seen her in ages so was a good laugh (plus got new shoes in the sale)
STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
This weeks goals:
Pembroke - Tick What an awesome place wow! Gun fire explosions, The night firing was brilliant looked like fire works from the campsite
Sea cliffs (obv) Tick hanging belays, Waves splashing
HVS - Fail did not climb harder than VS
E1 - Fail see Above
Turn 26 - Tick
Do something stupid (not the malham route) Tick went swimming in the sea was brassic! Awesome though. Such a beautiful beach just down from bosherton
T: Drove to pembroke planned to get in a route but the weather came in after we got our tents up. (good timing)
F: St Govans and St govans east. Really psyched, Warm, Sunny and first flag down. Bit breezy though
Warmed up seconding a VS. Then belayed my mate on a HVS but he backed down ran up a VDiff on second to keep blood flowing. seconded a mate on a S. Then Lead Ganymede which was awesome but my finger was not happy.
Went to St govans inn table booked for birthday meal at 7.30 eventually ate at 10 pm (f*cking starving!)
S: Saddle Head Sunny and lighter winds Lead a S and HS soloed a diff. seconded a VD. The weather came in and we headed back to camp
S: Flintsome Bay. Lead a VD. Hanging belay with belays getting splashed by waves. Awesome climbing awesome situation great. As I was about to ab in a sea hawk flew over and headed to where my mates were climbing. Fortunately not them but the guy right next to them fell and got hurt pretty bad air lifted out.
I decided to head to the beach for a swim and enjoy the sun and some beers.
Next Weeks goals:
Try and squeeze a session in before going away with work.
Pembroke is better than I could of imagined the weather was perfect. I would of liked to climb a bit harder but I was happy just ticking good looking climbs at easy grades with good mates and nice sun. Also took a random from the campsite on his first absail and seconded a VD too.
on the sunday the weather was great. It was also nice to chill on a private beach in the sun swim in clean seas and play frisbee.
Great relaxing time and great to get away with good mates.
5 days cycle commuting plus
Mon: Club run, easy mixed terrain 18k
Tue: c61k cycle, tried to push hard but legs felt tired
Wed: c25k cycle, with a few hard pushes
Fri: am 7.5k easy run, pm 45mins swim, Easy 10k run
Sun: Plattfields 10k, dnf'd at 6k with painful gut issues.
Mediocre week for running, but reasonable on the bike. A little disappointed at Plattfields as I was comfortable at sub 4min/km pace despite some rather pronounced water features upto the point where my guts gave way. I'm not too concerned though, as I think I've identified the cause, and I've seen so much improvement over the last few months of structured training that I see it as a matter of time before the target times fall unless I get lazy or do something stupid.
I probably won't post next week as I'm away on holiday (cycling around Northern France following the start of Le Tour), and when I get back it will be Ripon Triathlon. After that, it will be a case of picking some targets and races for the rest of the year.
Thanks again Daniel, hope your trip goes well!
STG: Climb more consistently at 6a , climb onsight 5+ on a range of styles and boulder at V1. Start lead climbing on easy grades.
MTG: Climb at 6a+, lead on 5+ and boulder onsight at V1. Second climbing outside.
LTG: Start lead climbing outside (Vdiff / S).
VLTG: Lead climb VS
M - Rest
T - Climbing at The Cragg. Mostly pottered around on 5+s. Mostly onsight, one I had to rest and work it out, messed up the tactics on it.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Climbing at The Cragg. Again, pottered around on 5+ and improving how I climbed them. Worked a 6a, really difficult climb but linked well together.
S - Rest
Completely failed on the weeks aim of slab climbing and bouldering! This week is going to be a bit low on the climbing but hopefully, I will be able to get out at least twice.
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(4). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Fat %: 9.4%
Focus: Maintenance (2/3)
Tue: Bamford (max HVS).
Thu: ARC. Repeaters..
Fri: Stockport (max 6b+ & V4).
Sat: Horseshoe (max 6b).
Sun: Horseshoe (max 6b+).
Thanks Dan. Excellent effort on your e3 & e4. That wall at lawrencefield looks mental.
A poor week. I'm eating really badly & most of my body seems to be knackered (lots of tweaks). I'm tired because one of the kids is always up in the night & the boy always gets me out of bed by 6:30. Just felt too tired to train most of the week.
Took it very easy @ Stockport on Friday due to my right elbow flaring up, seems to have worked as it is fine now. Saturday and Sunday was spent trying to bag routes in the windows of dryness @ the Horseshoe. Shame my climbing partner gave up just as the weather was changing.
All in my heads not really been in it ths week. I really could do with some sunshine to cheer me up!!
STG: One weights session, one pull-up/press-up session, 3 core, 1 climbing specifc & (attempt) lead something of 6c/e2 or harder.
Managed a few days out climbing, mainly on the general fitness at the moment though.
T- football 2hours.
W- Evening session at Nesscliffe, bouldering.
S- 5K park run (20.14) - slow start, didn't pick up the pace early enough, but I didn't know the circuit, hoping for somewhere around the 19.30 mark next time. Gym in the evening. All body work out.
S- Watched England get beat at penalties...
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