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Topic - Accident at Limekilns 25th June

AllanT_87 - on 26 Jun 2012
My friend Jason Begg had a really bad accident at Limekilns, which has resulted in 3 broken vertebrae in his lower back. He's still in hospital just now and the likelyhood is that he'l be there for a while, so i wish him all the best and a speedy recovery! and a big thanks to all the ambulance crew for their help, and to the fellow climbers who helped transport him down!

Ive been reading a lot about accidents at Limekilns and im not taking sides in the debate, im just going to give an account of what happened and hopefully something can be learned from it.

He was leading Forbidden Colours (HVS) and felt confident enough in the gear placements to attempt the direct finnish (E1). There was 3 pieces of gear on the upper half of the route, however whilst on the overhang he slipped off, pulling every bit of protection out and hitting the deck. Hard.

The first bit of gear to rip was a pretty solid looking cam, however the rock at Limekilns is very soft, which can clearly be seen on the cam because all of the grooves on the cam are packed with soft rock! So i would be very wary of placing cams here.

Secondly, E1(5c) was pushing the grades, so a fall was always possible. Im not saying dont push your grades, but just dont trust your gear on this type of rock, especially small nuts and cams. Also a bouldering matt would have taken a lot of the impact from the fall, worth considering i'd say!

Limekilns is a great place for climbing, but there does appear to be a higher than average injury rate. It is very soft rock so please be aware of the risks if your heading out this way!

Happy climbing.
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