/ NEW REVIEW: BMC Over The Moors Guidebook
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4740
This is a brilliant guidebook..........and a great review of it.
A massive thanks to Martin and the team for all their hard work with the book and to Mick for his detailed review..
How you doing? long time no see? last time was on Windy Ledge.Drop me a line when you next "up north" and we can get out?
As per usual your eloquence on writing a fantastic review shines through
A great job!!
Yes, I have to hold my hands up, it was me who started the thread, on the grades at "the pits", mainly to promote the guide (but still think Mangled digit 6b!!!). I also checked the first ascentonists hands, and he does have 10 fingers and does not only climb there, especially as I am climbing in France with him next week, so apologies to Ian.
Thanks again for a fantastic review, its a great guide, Martin and Ian put in a fantastic amount of work( as well as the rest of the team..too numerous to mention) to produce this and should win a BMC award for long term tenacity (how are my pro's doing?)
All I can say is buy it, read it, be inspired, and then go climb it!! (then argue about the grades in the pub!!)
ps your picture of the spanner is upside down!!!
> ps your picture of the spanner is upside down!!!
No it isn't: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21913923@N03/3312631606/
Hasn't the spanner gone?
> Brilliant review.
> Hasn't the spanner gone?
I believe it finally broke off a couple of years ago but has since been replaced.
Mick Ryan's just emailed me to say that this was up. They've laid it out beautifully - which is fitting, as this guidebook is a visual feast. I shudder at the amount of work; I'd have given up the ghost and collapsed in a peat hag, long ago.
Grades... who knows? I've got little fingers (no jokes please!) so Mangled Digit was probably easier for me. I remember looking at aforesaid appendages, bloody and blue with cold and thinking the route was well named!
Would be great to meet up when properly 'oop North. I'm making a flying visit over the next two days to attend Graham Rawcliffe's funeral. Just knowing that Kinder's up there, somewhere in the clouds, will mean a lot to me.
That spanner - I loved it. I guess everybody did. Is it on somebody's bookshelf?
All best wishes,
Great review Mick - a trip down memory lane it seems!
With no disrespect to Grimer & the previous guides, Martin marshalled a team of unwilling, mainly ignorant climbers that were hungry for new rock - always a charm.
Many toiled up clough & down grough to reach the scrittle grit that we always had an exciting time with.
I was lucky to get Wimberry Boulders & the Grinah stones & with all of us working on them, I still don't think we did them justice!
The book stands out for itself & is a very different beast to previous volumes. It somehow seem more driven, more strived & with each page I have to check to see if there is peat under my fingernails.
I had two pretty bad falls off Kinder Northern Edges during the guide work - & had pretty bad journeys back from them - but in the wild open & hobbling down the clough - I wouldn't have missed it for the world...
You've caught the essence of it in a way which I think I've failed to do. (But, at least, I tried!) I spent 10 days in France with it, looking at it, reading it every day, yes, unashamedly wandering back down memory lane. Ironically, given that it's a visual feast, there's something going on beneath the surface, something tremendously important. So many people have given their all for this - and it comes across.
I'm sorry about your falls. I'm at an age where I dread deck-outs, just because I begrudge the recovery time (maybe not much time left). But the enforced contemplation makes you a different person. There's no doubt about that. Just a hard way to do it...
No probs Mick. Thanks for writing a great review, I enjoyed reading it, and no editing was needed as it was so well written, which is always a bonus :) Sorry I didn't email to say it was up, I thought I'd said I was working on it today. Need to find you something else to review now, perhaps...
The spanner has been replaced pointing the other way. A suitable change: v for victory perhaps or maybe a gesture to the those spurning adventure, climbing the same old climbs on the same old polished sections of the most popular bits of the eastern edges.
Keen observers will note that the guide is not strictly speaking finished yet. Several web guides are too be uploaded including the less well trodden areas like the Tameside death traps, the looser summer climbing on Dovestone main, Torside Clough, etc. As the cheif of this set of heroic climbing contributers Martin said, there are no mistakes in it whatsoever ;-) Someone else once said "It's not esoteric, it's effort."
I wonder if there is a prize for most cake eaten in the production of a guide book I am pretty sure this would win, mmm cake :)
But seriously ... how did sweatyman and riccochet wall both get HVS ... at least a grade between the two of them ...
Not enough pictures of cake in the actual book itself (plenty of Kocsis's developing bald patch though...).
I will say I wass a little disappointed by the lack of many historical photos in the book, will have to flick through my old editions instead.
'wass' (sic) that picture of madmen not not historical enough. Every time I see that photo my palms get a little sweaty.
Also the pictures of the FA of bloodrush and appointment with death were both photos of historic momments, no?
Maybe Sweatyman is a very easy HVS and Riccochet a very hard one and as the HVS grade is very wide there is a normal full grade or a week of cake consumption between them ;-)
This must be the best guide book in the last 25 years for the Chew Valley, Kinder, Bleaklow and those other quallity moorland areas :-)
I'm so glad I was never brain washed that Stanage, Burbage and a few of the other Eastern crags are the only places to climb on grit, hopefully Yorkshire grit will also remain of the radar of all the Stanage sheep and quiet days can still be had climbing 3 star routes without another sole in sight.
On the same subject I cannot understand how cool mans wall (sweatyman direct finish) gets VS and sweatyman gets HVS when they share a crux and cool man wall has one more 5a (hard 4c) move at the top.
Anyway shooters nab is a rubbish crag which no one should visit. There are no 3 star classics with no polish and no cues .... Also there is not a LGP waiting for some very good climbers waiting to be climbed. ;o)
Dont worry Craig, we did our level best to publicise the fewer midges, different crag aspects (shade and shelter) and great climbing in a different place... in the less well know southern areas of the Froggatt guide: numbers increased but crowds never came. At least the small subset of UK climbers who are looking for good varied climbing, and are not locals, can now better see what the fuss we made was all about on the moors.
In reply to grubes.
Ive done neither yet and Lynn only did the VS...well let you know.
Awesome guidebook and a fantastic review :-)
> You've caught the essence of it in a way which I think I've failed to do. (But, at least, I tried!)
>Ironically, given that it's a visual feast, there's something going on beneath the surface, something tremendously important. So many people have given their all for this - and it comes across.
I think you nailed that last point Mick!!
I wonder what the average production time of a guide book is? This one was certainly a mammoth undertaking for all involved with many frustrating days spent trying to get "the shot".
Might something to do with the time trying to get your good side Marcus. Photoshop can do wonders but... ;-)
This has got to be the first time a review has made me want to go out and buy a guide that I am never likely to use. Fantastic, you have got me itching to go north again.
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