/ Driving to the Dolomites, places to break the journey & climb?

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The Ivanator - on 29 Jun 2012
Taking a road trip to the Dolomites in 3 weeks time, crossing via the tunnel then heading South. Can anyone suggest places that don't require a huge detour where we could break the journey and get a climb in?
As we'll be getting some adventurous long routes in the Dolomites some stress free single pitch sport would be great, something with good climbing in the F5 - F6b range. Any pointers on budget accomodation campsites nearby would be appreciated too.

Ivan
scott titt - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
Avoid the French Auto route tolls and go via Belgium (lots of crags, Dave, Beeze, Dame Joanne and others, or if you must Freyr). On to Germany passing Eifel (pretty but not inspiring) and then the Frankenjura (N and S) for stress free sport in your grades probably the S. Passing lots of new stuff round Rosenheim on to Austria and some pleasant stuff in the Karwendal (some easy multi pitch sport near the top of the ski lift!) and then to the Dolomites (the cheaper way is via one of the Tauern passes) or speed down the Brenner and turn left.
The Ivanator - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to scott titt: Thanks Scott, that's loads of good suggestions to look into.
alexcollins123 - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator: Just a quick thing having driven back from there last week, Germany is FULL of roadworks at the moment. Mostly motorway widening with contraflow (80kph) so don't expect to be driving anywhere fast!
Dave Ferguson - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
We stopped at Sudpfalz in germany, lovely sandstone towers, an idyllic spot with a great campsite.
ross - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator: Hi Ivan, I've climbed at Pfaltz before on my way to the Dolomites. It's pretty good, but not as good as Berdorf which has cheap camping nearby and the opportunity for cheap fuel in Luxembourg. I think there's a Berdorf guide online, if not it's pretty easy to find the climbing. It's hard to find crags in Pfaltz without a guide.
Have a great trip, Ross.
The Ivanator - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to all: Thanks for all the suggestions so far, some great pointers to research. Ivan
Stephi on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
There is pleasant sport climbing in Karwendel if you choose to drive that way. Routes at the North face of the Alpspitze are bolted and good fun (5-8 pitches):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=15975
(there are a lot more routes than shown on ukc)
and there's nice camping here: http://www.campingplatzgrainau.de/
The Ivanator - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to ross: Having looked into Berdorf a little more it certainly appeals, have found some online material, but may invest in the guidebook too.
Cheap fuel a bonus too.
In reply to The Ivanator:

Martinswand in the Vosges is worth a call, single and multipitch granite, decent municipal campsite in Munster, close to the route south, only an hour or so from the Swiss border.


Chris
The Ivanator - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Hmmm that looks good too ...perhaps a circuit, out via Berdorf to the Dolomites and back via Martinswand. I am fond of a bit of granite.
In reply to The Ivanator:

It turns out, I wrote an article about the place a few years back:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=216



Chris
ads.ukclimbing.com
The Ivanator - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Cheers Chris, we just got back from the Dolomites today after some great climbing, the Schubert Route of Friendship on Piz Ciavazes was probably the highlight, despite rain forcing an abseil retreat after 4/7 pitches, we completed all the hard bits.
We did call in at Martinswand on the way down and enjoyed a couple of routes there, a 2 pitch combo we did on the Strassburger Wall was really good - thanks for the pointer.

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