/ DMM Alloy Offset

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Chay - on 30 Jun 2012
Hi,

Been looking at the DMM Alloy offset wires, they look a very useful shape!

On a single pitch route i rack a full set of DMM wires, On a multi pitch route i rack a set of DMM wires and a set of wild country rocks.

Did you find the use for DMM Alloy offsets aswell as a normal wires? or did you buy them and not bother racking them and taking the extra weight?

Any thoughts?

Thanks, GB.
In reply to GingerBread22: I think they are brilliant, http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1066

Two full sets of nuts plus offsets sounds quite a lot though. I carry one set of Wallnuts on one krab plus the DMM alloy offsets and a collection of old RPs, brass offsets and other little 'uns on the second. This is normally more than enough. But play around, and you'll work out what you are happy with.
Chay - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to TobyA: Exactly, i'd only carry one set of wires plus the offsets and maybe a few tidlers' if i were to buy them. So it's really a choice between using a second set of wires or DMM alloy offsets that cover the most used sizes.

Not sure which way to go.
In reply to GingerBread22: Go for the offsets, they just are perfect in so many placements!
Dr.S at work - on 30 Jun 2012
TobyA
Hi Toby, does a 'half-set' (eg every other size) of offsets cover most placements?
In reply to Dr.S at work: I think there are only 6, so a half set is only 3 nuts. Maybe turning them sideways is the same as going up a size, but you probably need to check DMMs website to make certain.
Styx - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:

I think they're ace, they go in everywhere, seemingly. For multi-pitch routes in Wales I carry two sets of 1-6 wallnuts, one set of 5-11 and a set off offsets, this works very well for me.
gethin_allen on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:
depends on what you are climbing, if it's single pitch grit then you can leave most stuff at the bottom of the crag, if it's limestone then I've found the offsets reasonably useful.
EZ on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:

I climb lots of grit and I wouldn't leave the ground without my offsets. They are part of the permanent carry. I extend downwards in size with peenuts as well, but I don't place them so often and don't seem to achive the same amount of certainty of the placements (although they are obviously smaller and so are bound to feel and appear weaker)
EZ on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to TobyA:

Unless one can buy another size individually, I am sure that they are only 5. That's what I got when I bought a set.

They don't really play very well as a half set. All sizes are valuable.
Chay - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: Thanks for the responses;

I don't climb a lot on grit, generally climb a lot of mountain routes and crags in north wales, in the pass, ogwen area etc and Gogarth when i'm climbing well.

I sometimes get into position and think "I wish i had..." and not really know what i wish had, just something different from a normal wire. Thought about tricams and offsets, but don't want to commit what little money i have and buy the wrong thing.

I'm sure there's 5 in a set from what I've seen?

Starting to definitely fancy the offsets though!
Mike Redmayne - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to EZ:
Like others, I think they are great - esp the larger sizes. On multi pitch where I'm carrying two sets of wires I've taken to replacing rocks with offsets.
Ander on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:
I use my offsets all the time.
I rack either a set of wallnuts Rocks a set of rocks, along with a set of offsets, including the 3 largest brass ones.
Andrew Lodge - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: I think mine are great, use them a lot
mmmhumous on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:

Have A full set of Offsets (alloy and Brass), and they're always the first wires to go on my harness, absolutely love them. My starndard wires hardly get touched since I bought the offsets.
Hannes on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: I think they are so good that I rarely carry normal nuts anymore but just a set of offsets and small cams instead.
Purple - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: Offsets good - thoroughly reccomend them!!
Chay - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: Seems like they're highly recommended on a whole! Be my next investment :)
Tradlad - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: offsets are great - never leave the ground without them!
Ade7 on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22: I find Superlights compliment offsets really well.
jkarran - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:

I bought the HB predecessors years ago for a specific trip then left them in a box for ages. Eventually they found their way onto my rack and they're now absolutely indispensable.

jk
andic - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to GingerBread22:

They are brilliant for N Wales, they just seem to plop right in. I climb on grit mostly though and find them useful but not essential
torquil on 02 Jul 2012
Buy them you wont be disappointed, I'd take them before Walnuts if I had to choose between them.

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