/ UKC fit club week 277

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biscuit - on 08 Jul 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (276) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=511478
Posters:
Daniel Heath have a great time
Grubes hope china goes well for you
Biscuit
Quiddity I love it when a plan comes together ;0)
Eagle River did you find dry rock. The last couple of days have been nice.
Leon good work this week and thanks for the advice
AJM hope the fingers have recovered ( and your hangover has gone )
Mr Chewey hope the trip goes well. You've certainly got yourself an inspiring partner.
Kevster HOM sounds close
Migs493 don't lose heart. Get to physio and get it sorted
Mattrm life does get in the way of climbing
IainRUK great result. Trophy on the mantelpiece is what it's all about :0)
Nomics4Sale GET IT DONE ;0)
MNM wasn't the weather for a BG I don't think
Hokkyokusei good weather this weekend. Did you get it done ?
Markez sounds like you're becoming a boulderer watch out you'll be wearing a beanie soon
Ian Bell right you've committed it to public knowledge now so you've got to do it
IanT hope this week was better for you and your wife
Ayuplass slow and steady is the way. Good attitude and a good active week well done on the V3
SeanKenny - i'm still stuck trying to onsight 7a and every one goes next go. Just keep trying.
JimmyKay steady week
Sankey have a great time in the Alps
Mr-Cowdrey hope the new plan is going well
Joughton Bitterfingers sounds great
Si dH well done on Darius. No matter how long it took you, you did it
Lizj sounds suitably grim. Great effort
Ali good second half of the week
curiousyellow bloody elbows !
Eric9 points nice to see you back at it
Kevster - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Morning, Cheers Biscuit.

A really poor week! Too much food and drink and about 2 hours of climbing, which was indoors. Partly work sucking up time and partly lethargy over just getting things done.

This week needs to be better, may climb today (indoors). I think a better diet would be positive thing too. I have no posibility to climb outside over the next couple of weeks, unless miracles happen, so I think up the indoors at different walls to try and keep the ball rolling from last weekend.

Thanks, Kev

Might try the Reach or MK today, Harlow tuesday and somewhere else thursday.
markez on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Well, I went to the climbing centre on Tue, but couldn't be bothered climbing and instead bouldered a little longer. No real loss as my body isn't in good shape and I struggled to push beyond a number of seconds of work.

Anyone fancy having a go at Caldwell Burns or 123's ? I'm way off my PB's but my lazy self did my last set of 123's in 7:26 and CB 29 reps in 19:43.

The format I use for 123's are 1 pullup on an edge, 2 pushups, 3 crunches; and then 2x,3x,...,10x these and stop. CB the same but as many 5x,5x,...,5x in 20 minutes. Ready ? Go !

(I tend to do both in succession, and as I've hurt myself previously pushing it hard, I just relax through it now - though I try to keep it moving)
Joughton on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: Cheers biscuit, glad I had that day last week because this week was no where near as good.

I spent most of the week not climbing or training due to the injury I picked up last Sunday, however it started to feel better so I went out on Saturday to the Tor, full of psyche for Body Machine, only to arrive to see it seeping out of every place possible! Psyche levels suitably lowered, I tried another 7c instead which turned out to have a very reachy crux. To cheer myself up I had a go at flashing Sardine, the classic 7b+ (I didn't actually have any proper beta but I'd already climbed the section shared with Toadside). Just about scraped up it on the first go which was nice but it made my back start hurting again so I stopped climbing for the day to avoid further damage. I'm going to rest it for another week because I've got a trip to Canada on Thursday.

So this will be my last post for three weeks, hope this weather improves so all of Fit Club can achieve their summer goals!

Cheers, Jake
grubes - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> Grubes hope china goes well for you

Cheers was good.

Ate lots drank quite a bit.

M: office
T: Travel
W: meetings - two huge meals
T: Travel
F: Gym session
S: Pool and gym session
S: Travel
Si dH - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit.

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 5, eek**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon, Scoop Wall, and Darius**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - **for progress see below**

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **now need 2*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+ and 1*7c**

Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s


M: Rest
T: Fingerboard session
W: Alter Rock bouldering. Good session, no structure to it but repeated a lot of problems, did a few new ones and felt really strong.
T: Fingerboard session, focussing on one-armed hangs and lock-offs to mix things up a bit.
F: nothing - major splurge on booze and food at work bbq (indoors!)
S: nothing - recovery from night before, and a wedding (cue minor splurge on champagne and cake)
S: short bouldering & traversing session at Alter Rock. Not bad.

Pretty low intensity week really, didn't get as much done as I'd liked and my weight has gone up, I've been eating too much. Felt strong bouldering though.
I'm supposed to be doing a weekend trad climbing next week...not sure where yet, just hope I can find some dry rock! Aim will be to do at least a couple of E2s and maybe have a pop at an E3 depending on location.

Si
seankenny - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit!

Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap

M: Battered from the weekend.
T: Bouldering at WW, flashed some black problems (V2-V4 but bottom end of this for sure!), did lots of other reasonably hard stuff, good session.
W: Physio for creaky shoulder.
T: V short run (1.75m)
F: Routes at WW, did a 6c+/7a with one rest near the top, then half a 7a.
S: Chilling, tired.
S: Big wall training at the wall, just getting to grips with aiders really. Dead useful. Surprisingly hard work. Then a few routes up to about 6b before getting home. Hopefully going for a run now.

A pretty good week. My shoulder will need some work on it before I go away, just plenty of stretching and so on. Good to get some fall practice in today and Friday, and the aid climbing stuff went well. Now just got to learn jumaring, penduluming and hauling. Honestly, it's like revising for an exam or something. Except more fun :)

As for the 7a onsight, I'm not that bothered whether I get it or not, just seems the next logical step so if it happens, it happens.
leon on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:
STG: Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth.
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(5). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(92)
Fat %: 9.4%
Focus: Maintenance (3/3)

Mon: Weights. Core.
Tue: ARC. Repeaters. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Wed: Rubicon (max V6).
Thu: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Nothing.
Sun: Core.

Another quiet week due to weekend away. No real climbing, didn't get much done @ Rubicon. Tried A Bigger Tail (excellent problem) which is a V6 problem that finishes @ the first bolt of the sport route An Even

Bigger Tail. I think I will get the boulder problem with more pads and a spotter. The sport route it starts is only 2 bolts & 7b+ so I rekon I will definately try to red point this once I work the boulder problem. 1st bolt is high though, but I guess I'm allowed to use the same pads & spotters I do for the start of the sport route as I do for the boulder problem?

Next week will be another quiet week (another family weekend away). However I do have Mon/Tue booked off for climbing. Was supposed to be having a crack @ Left Wall but given the weather I'm hoping (if my partner agrees) to have a go @ Gogarth (it never rains @ Gogarth) & maybe the Strand.
JimmyKay - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

No outdoor climbing this week. Only managed 1 indoor session which was a bit half hearted. 3 running sessions though. Alcohol consumption on 4 of the 7 nights though... Not much but still far more than I'd have liked... Couldn't help it. I'm too easily convinced.

M - Nothing
T - Running session (speed session)
W - Short 2hr bouldering session
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - 5k park run. 19:59. Another slow-ish time. Was running off the back of a couple of people in a club I have run with before for pace setting. Followed them most of the way round and the clipped off them at the end when I speeded up in the final 500m. Need to stay on the back of a quicker runner next time while I'm still finding my own pace.
S - Hill training. Press-ups. Cooked a wicked lamb tangine this evening. It's still simmering in the oven, lamb is already melt in the mouth. Cannot wait to serve it up in 20mins...
JimmyKay - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

2 gym sessions = Good week!
liz j on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Hia
Well, after my 'epic mud run' last saturday, I have done 2 road runs this week.
Wed was a club run, out and back (20 mins out). Did 4.75 miles in total in just over 39 mins with a negative split on the return leg so was pretty happy with that.
Today I woke with good intentions to do a long club run at 8.30, but it was raining when I woke and didn't fancy a soaking to start the day, so went back to sleep for an hour. It was dry by 8, typical!
So, did a run on my own this afternoon, 4.5 miles in a tad under 42 mins, which I was slightly disappointed with as it felt hard at the 3 mile point!

Anyway, have another race lined up, Sturnminster Half marathon on the 29th of this month. Pretty sure I will be fine after my offroad race, and I'm not going for any records, just to get round in a reasonable time
Ian Bell - on 08 Jul 2012
hi all

Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).

MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Trad road trip goal not no happening as off to the Alps for some multipitch.

LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep

T - WW boulering. couple of blacks (V2-V4) and a white (v3-V5)
S - WW bouldring, WIBL 26 & 28
S - WW bouldering - black and WIBL 29

Was supposed to be in portland this weekend but the weather had other plans. Supposed to be there the coming weekend also so hopefully will be dryer. Will this rain ever end?!

Feeling a bit tired today so maybe an easy week in the weekdays and then hopefully 2 good days in Portland.
migs493 - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: Hi Biscuit and thanks.

Still suffering from shoulder problem. Likely to be Shoulder impingement syndrome. Recurrence of an old injury. Started doing some re-hab but still need to see a physio. Hopefully to-morrow.

Week has been a challenge with motivation to keep training but without climbing.

M - Run 30min, core stab 30min
T - Tennis 30min, core stab 30 min
W - Run 40min
T - Rest Travelling
F - Rest Travelling
S - Rest Lazy
S - Rest Lazy!!

STG - see physio and get shoulder sorted!
NMN - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for doing the stats biscuit.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).

MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon

M - 2.36m treadmill, 10.2%.
T - nothing.
W - 3.51m hills, 2,239ft.
T - nothing.
F - 4.67m hills, 2,863ft.
S - 2.56m hills, 1,378ft.
S - 4.89m hills, 3,108ft.

A good week for ascent.
Had a new knee pain at the start of the week which resulted in another physio visit. Before Skye I hadn't seen the physio for 2 years, since I have now been 4 times in 3 weeks.
AJM - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Bit better a week in terms of mojo.

Wall Tuesday, mileage on easy problems to start then tried some circuits and some harder stuff.
Wall Saturday, got on some hard stuff, didn't complete anything but pulled some hard moves. Managed the first 17 moves of the 7a circuit, again likely to be impossible to link the whole thing but that's how circuit grades go. Progress on the campus board though, managed to hit 1-3.3-5.5 a couple of times leading right hand (ie the left hand is the one which hits 5.5) and 1-4-5.5 once too, more progress. Leading left hand I'm still on 1-3.5-5 really, so lagging a bit. Did some stretching and pushups too. Need to do these more regularly.
Today I'm doing some weights and pushups and the like as my fingers are a bit shredded from the wall.

2 non-climbing weekends coming up but hopefully I've got the mojo back to keep training through. Weight was good as of this morning, under 72 for the first time in a while, although had a big dinner today.
grubes - on 09 Jul 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
Can barely be called gym sessions but a good week to say how much traveling and eating I did.

Friday was a 18 mins run and a 15 mins run plus some weights. not done any running in about 10 months so nice introduction.
Saturday was about 120m swimming, 18mins running and 10mins cycling
biscuit - on 09 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Another week of 8a level eating and drinking and v diff level exercise.

Ran every day apart from Saturday for an hour each time. I don't think it's held off the fat though. All packed and ready to return back to Spain this afternoon and i am feeling fat and bilious from booze and lard.

Raring to go and get back to it this week. Un packing tomorow and an afternoon at the pool before heading down to try my elbow on some circuits at El Torcalito. Then got a climbing day ( with no work before it this time ) sorted for Wednesday. I think one of my partners is on holiday for the next couple of weeks in the area so i should be getting out a couple of times a week at least.

My elbow seems OK with climbing ( as long as i avoid too much pinching/undercuts) but is aggravated by day to day tasks. So i am wearing an elbow strap. I tried wearing it to climb but pumped out in that arm within 5 metres so i don't think that's a goer.

My lead head has gone totally as i've not done anything hard on the sharp end for a couple of months now.I was scared at Kendal wall with a bolt every metre. I need to do some decent on-sighting over these next couple of weeks with a 'no take ' option and do some practice falling.

I think dieting will also be necessary but i am going to swap to half hour hard runs rather than 1 hr long ones when i get back. I am going to get down to 10% body fat asap.

Got my mojo back and can't wait to get back to it.
Quiddity - on 09 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Hmm damn this weather.

VSTG:
Nightmare Scenario

STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Learn to drive

MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.
Contemplate 8a+ pyramid

VLTG
8b ?!

M: Shoulder stretches. Push ups, assisted 1 arm pull ups. Attempted a beastmaker session, got halfway through the first set of max hangs but not feeling it - sacked rest of session off. Otherwise rest.
T: Shoulder stretches. Bouldering at Castle. Working V5s, threshold boulder on mezz V7. Weights sesh - inverted row, shoulder press, one arm row, DB external rotations.
W: Shoulder stretches. Routes - laps. Overcooked set 2 a bit, burned out on set 3. {6b+,6b,6b+} {6c,6b+,6b+,6b} {(6c+),(6b)} Gym - deadlifts, bicep curls, lateral DB raise, bent over DB raise, deep push ups. PM - bouldering at Arch. Pretty good session, quite powered up.
T: Shoulder stretches. Beastmaker - good session. (3 sets of max hangs each arm on 40mm edge, 20mm edge F3 o/h, 20mm edge 1/2cr and an extra set on RH 1/2cr and LH on o/h.) Otherwise rest.
F: shoulder stretches. rest
S: Portland. Rain. No climbing.
S: Portland. Easy pottering on blacknor beach (only dry rock we could find...) but fun and in the sun.

Some thoughts re. fingerboard. I'm trying to keep my sessions short (ie. 4 sets of 5 max hangs on each arm, ie. 20 hangs total.) In my last couple of sessions I've been doing 2 sets on my weakest grip type for each arm (crimping on my RH, open hand on my LH). Definitely finding I'm able to hang for significantly longer by the time I get to that last set, and feel like I am stopping the session early (ie. not only still strong but yet to peak) - anyone else got any thoughts?

Gonna try to add in a couple more sets at maybe 80% and 90% of max at the end of the warm up so that I can be fully recruited come the max hangs.
Nomics4sale - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

> Nomics4Sale GET IT DONE ;0)

Oh how I wish I had!!

Thanks Biscuit, morning all.

STG: RP 7a+, onsight E1
MTG: do trek
LTG: onsight more 6c/+'s and E1's

Mon: 6 mile run Forest of Bowland
Tues: BoulderUK, flash up to V4, and ticked a V5
Wed: nowt
Thurs: Wet and midge infested trollers with Eagle River. Failed to RP Angel Dust (7a+).
Fri: nowt
Sat: 7 mile run round Crummock then 1 km swim across and back.
Sun: 6 mile gentle walk up Blencathra

dear oh dear, failed to RP Angel Dust which is really annoying as it means I will have to go back there and spend at least one more day on it (surely not more than one!?!). I've had 3 days on it so far and really should have ticked it on the 2nd day. Ho hum. Resultant low pysche, sh*te weather and RP failure, just can't be arsed with climbing at the moment!!

Nomics4sale - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Very sensible to rest your back. Have a good trip.
Nik Jennings - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I think I know what the problem is, there is a disturbing lack of moonwalk practice in your weekly reports. Your subconscious won't let you tick a route if the resultant moonwalk will be below par...

Seriously though Nomics Angel Dust was going to be your long term worked project before going away in the Autmun wasn't it? If you're thinking you should have ticked it in 3 sessions then you should be on a 7b, which is what I said in the first place :o)
AJM - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Keep the faith!

If Nik is saying below that this was meant to be your "before autumn" project, take a step back and realise the confidence/ability/whatever improvement you've had - you're getting annoyed you haven't done it in 3 sessions! From "maybe by autumn" to "should have done it already" is a good step even if it feels frustrating right now.
mattrm - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for doing fit club biscuit.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs

DQS - over 20 apart from an 'off day' at the weekend

M - Rest
T - Excercise & Stretches
W - ITBS Stretches
T - Excercise & Stretches + 4k run
F - ITBS Stretches
S - Rest
S - Trad @ Paviland

Trad wasn't much fun all in. Paviland has too much vegtation and loose rock to be much cop. First time I've been to a Gower crag that I'm thinking I won't bother going back to it. Good if you like extreme gardening however. Still good work out. Knees didn't fall apart either. Getting psyched for the Alps now. Diet isn't doing much, but hopefully I'll be a bit closer to 12st in a fortnight. I hope.
grubes - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> dear oh dear, failed to RP Angel Dust which is really annoying as it means I will have to go back there and spend at least one more day on it (surely not more than one!?!). I've had 3 days on it so far and really should have ticked it on the 2nd day. Ho hum. Resultant low pysche, sh*te weather and RP failure, just can't be arsed with climbing at the moment!!

At least you got out climbing ... on rock.
Last night I headed to the wall and climbed like shit, plus my finger was killing even after a weeks rest. probably not going to be able to pull hard for a few more weeks ... even more sessions on jugs and slopers for me :-/

On the bright side saturday and sundays forcast are looking good.

All it proves is yuou should of gone for the lead rather than top roping it twice! There is a great quote for you from Jordan buys here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64698 "Why bother top roping it in one. Save that for the big send, you don't want to have done it twice..!"
grubes - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:
Sorry just re-read that sound like a bit of a tw*t. Just a bit pissed off with injury, jet lag and facking weather.
Sorry
Nomics4sale - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nik Jennings:

Oh yes the moonwalks and high fives are a major factor! I'd forgotten!!

I kind of thought if I can top rope it cleanly then I should be able to RP it. But on thursday I did one pathetic "take me there" at the crux... then next go had a fairly decent go but without any real conviction so failed the move. then the 3rd go my foot slipped off before the crux. All very frustrating! But I guess that's climbing... some days go well, some days don't.

(still annoyed tho!)
Nomics4sale - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

No I know what you mean! TRing it was a waste of time and pretty much everyone who I moaned to about it has said that too....

and yeah I suppose the upside is that I was out on rock, not injured and enjoying myself. Easy to forget that!

I think we're all suffering lack of pysche cos of the weather. Bright side for you is that at least the weather is shite when you're taking injury time?
grubes - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to grubes)
> Sorry just re-read that sound like a bit of a tw*t. Just a bit pissed off with injury, jet lag and facking weather.
and climbing like shit

Nomics4sale - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

> and climbing like shit

Blimey! You sound as depressed as me! It's all relative innit? Just cos you have one bad day doesn't mean the rest of your climbing days will be shite. If I look back I realise that I was truly shite a year ago, now I'm generally climbing a bit better so am just moderately shite. Can you apply the same logic and realise you are in fact a Jordan Buys in the making? (doing my best Nik jennings pysche talk here, who's probably reading this, nodding sagely in agreement .....or not!)

Nik Jennings - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I'm actually just jiggling a baby in the desperate hope that he'll fall asleep. I fear I too may have a day of disappointment ahead of me...
ads.ukclimbing.com
biscuit - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I think that you both need to realise that whilst the grades we are climbing are not world beating they are far from shit and most importantly we are all still on an upward trend with our grades.

Factor in crap conditions, which leads to sporadic time on rock, and pressure to get it that day or else it might rain again, and less than great actual climbing conditions and its no surprise that RP's are not falling.
grubes - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Nik Jennings: Try doing some more 1 armer trainging that could work.

Or at least put you in the bad books with the wife again
Nik Jennings - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:
I'm going easy on that today after I slightly strained something in my abdomen yesterday doing front levers with him strapped on my chest.

biscuit - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

Hang on, can i join the miserable group ? Just checked my body fat and despite running just about everyday on holiday i've gone up 1.6%. DISASTER !

Lettuce for lunch again then.
AJM - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

We either need the rain to go away or for the send train to pull into town!

Fit Club seems to be lacking in psyche right now.
grubes - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> Fit Club seems to be lacking in psyche right now.

sometimes you need weeks like this it makes the actual achievements feel so much better
Ali - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: Oh dear, rather a low-psyche week on here - bloomin British weather! Thanks for doing FC and keeping us going biscuit...

Didn't get a huge amount done last week, with logistics of unpacking from one weekend away and getting ready for the next!

M - nothing
T - Ran into work (5.5 miles + a slight detour trying to find my way out of Greenwich park...). Routes at the Reach in the evening - top rope and lead up to 6b+, was pretty hot and not feeling particularly strong
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - nothing (drove to Portland)
S - nothing - rainy day in Portland, which apparently has been the wettest place in the country so far this month!
S - easy routes at Blacknor (up to 5+) - got sunburnt!

Also picked up a grotty cold over the weekend so not feeling too great. However, whilst a low psyche week I am actually feeling really psyched about climbing at the moment...particularly with potential trip to Rodellar in September on the cards! Definitely need something concrete to motivate me for a summer of indoor climbing.

Now I have a vague idea of work commitments over the summer and plans for the rest of the year, I feel like I can start setting some climbing goals. I know its the wrong time of year for this, but need some motivation through the end of the year!

STG (summer/autumn) - onsight 6c, finish Want Out (7b), Empire of the Sun (7b), Something Stupid (7b)

MTG (2013) - onsight E2, 7c pyramid
Ali - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: Have also been thinking about what my main weaknesses are and what I need to focus on when training to become a better all-round climber. So over the next few months, in preparation for Rodellar (which will definitely test my weaknesses!), going to try and focus on:

- Improving all round core strength
- Endurance on steep routes
- Tufa style holds/pinches (<shudder>)
- Falling (<gulp!>)and working routes on lead

I think the last of these is going to be the hardest.... Psyched!!!

Eagle River - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Biscuit.

Goals: climb on rock, longridge 2nd 5th bit of traverse, 7b+ by the end of the year.

Last week I said:
> I have the next week off so will be on the hunt for dry rock all week.

I found some, but not much.

Mon: Kilnsey - Humid, rainy, midgey - about 4 routes 90% dry so tried 3 of them - warm up on Open Road (miles miles better than directissima) dogging the first clip to avoid the wet patch. Had 2 top ropes on Frankie comes to Kilnsey which was only wet right at the last bolt at the rest holds before a nervy rock over. Brilliant moves but really really long and run out. will definitely get back on it though as I've got a sequence sorted for all of it as my partner ticked it that day (with help from a rag i stuffed in the top holds so he could do it!). Finished off with a bolt to bolt go on comedy which was amusing (see what I did there?). Much more power endurance needed for that to be a realistic prospect.

Thurs: Trollers Gill - Humid, rainy, midgey - most of it was dry though so I did Angel Dust 2nd go once the bottom holds were dry then had a couple of goes on Haslam (7b/+) which I figured out a sequence for so will get on the RP attempts next time i'm there.
I also got to watch Nomics4Sale snatch defeat from the jaws of victory, it'll go next time for sure!

Weather groan groan etc.....



biscuit - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to biscuit) Have also been thinking about what my main weaknesses are and what I need to focus on when training to become a better all-round climber. So over the next few months, in preparation for Rodellar (which will definitely test my weaknesses!), going to try and focus on:
>
> - Improving all round core strength
> - Endurance on steep routes
> - Tufa style holds/pinches (<shudder>)
> - Falling (<gulp!>)and working routes on lead
>
> I think the last of these is going to be the hardest.... Psyched!!!

That's exactly what i am about to start working on. Living in a place full of steep limestone i have managed to avoid it for a remarkably long time and got half decent at vertical/just off vertical face routes. My target for the year though is a tufa wrestling monster route graded at 7c. It's an area i need to get better at.

I am also goint to start tomorrow on climbing with a no take option and doing some practice falling to start on my head which is in an awful place. Previously i've found the best thing to do is to tell your partner for the day that that is what you're going to do as soon as you meet up. That way you can't weedle out of it.
Eric9Points - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Mon - rest
Tues - gym, mainly upper body and stretching
Wed - run but legs still sore from Sun so only 2 miles and not much vertical ascent
Thurs - flat run - 11 miles
Fri - flat run 4 miles
Sat - rest
Sun - flat run 12.7 miles in about 1:52

Wrist now much better. Some climbing now possible, if it ever stops raining.
AJM - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Know your pain re tufa wrestling. Before my first decent length trip to somewhere like that (maybe joining Ali for a long weekend of her Rodellar trip, but thats only a short one) I'm going to have to put a lot of work in, although to be honest I'm not that sure how I would start!
biscuit - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:

To start i am thinking:

wide pinch training
lots of circuits on slopey holds
recovery training - including core for those knee bars
get on as many tufas as i can


I have a slight advantage with the last one as there are plenty around here.

It's just a totally different type of climbing and it feels like starting from scratch.
Ali - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: very true - now I just need to set up some routes partners for sessions... You're lucky having the tufas (no excuses?! ;oP) - there's a tufa route at the Reach which I'm planning to do battle with- given that its 6b+, and the previous route was graded 5+ (having being downgraded from 6a...) abnd felt more like 6b to me, I suspect I may struggle!

The lead head is definitely a weakness too - I'm ok getting on lead when I know (or am pretty sure) I can do the moves, or when I know the moves(i.e. worked it) but not when I'm working out the moves on something hard...
mattrm - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to AJM)
>
> It's just a totally different type of climbing and it feels like starting from scratch.

On the upside you'll make quick progress back up to current levels, which is always quite nice. So get on them!

IainRUK - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

m: 10.5 mile road run, slow, tired.
t: lunch 5 mile run. pm: around lake run
w: 3 6 min hill reps and 8.5 mile trail run. 30 mile road ride.
t: Moel Cynghorion fell run and 30 mile road ride
f: 5.3 mile trail run
s: 11 mile run, with 1,2,3,3,3,3,3,2,1 efforts
s: 12 mile road run
grubes - on 12 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit, AJM, Quiddity, Ali and all others interested in Endurance training:

Not sure if people have seen this?
http://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/tricks-of-the-endurance-training-trade/
Ex fit club member and wideboy TomPR has put together a blog reviewing endurance training.
its resulted in an interesing discussion from some strong people on UKB.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19955.0/all.html
AJM - on 12 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

I'd seen it, yeah - interesting stuff about differential training depending on whether you are slow or fast twitch, I just need to find out now, which I'm not sure how to do.
AJM - on 12 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:

Find out which now, that should have said!
ayuplass - on 12 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Having a bad case of 'can't be ars*d' so all I've done is

Wed - AM gym 40 mns PM 30 min run

I did lose another couple of pounds though but really need a kick up the bum to get me going again. Off to ingleton for a few days next week so hoping to get plenty of exercise done while I'm there
biscuit - on 12 Jul 2012
In reply to ayuplass:

motivation goes down as well as up - it's in the small print.

Just ride along with it and don't let the good work go undone. It sounds like you've done just that and after a few busy weeks you probably deserved a week off.

I am sure Ingleton will get you going again.
Stone_donkey - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: Haven't posted for a couple of weeks as wasn't getting much achieved indoors and feeling a bit flap (no chance of outdoor rock either). But last night did my first 'Harlow' 6b clean onsight lead . Felt controlled rather than desperate, head was all there, moves felt planned so feel well chuffed and a real confidence-booster. Was a reminder that as I think Dave Mc says - you'll only climb harder routes if you get on them. Previously I wouldn't have considered tying into the sharp end on anything more than 6a+ but now feeling a bit braver...
grubes - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to Stone_donkey: Nice one
grubes - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes: oh and her is another training video for psyche ;)
http://www.vimeo.com/45600726
Mr-Cowdrey on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit: just a flying from me.

M: Core strength training, fingerboard pyramids (1.5h)
T: nothing
W: 4x4 bouldering at the mill, then roped laps on the lead wall (2.5h)
T: Core again
F: 4x4 at TCA, the continuous boulding (3h)
S: Core and fingerboard repeaters
S: nothing.

Overall, a good week even though busy with work and cadets. Next week i'm in Nijmegen in Holland so will be unable to post. But going to try and train i the evenings for 30mins after the march. Mostly to cool down and loosen those muscles!!
Kevster - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to Stone_donkey:

Excellent! A bit of a time coming, but worth the wait I suspect. Bet you're dead chuffed. Kev
biscuit - on 14 Jul 2012
In reply to Stone_donkey:

It's a great feeling isn't it when you get the 'flow' and what should be a hard climb goes easy. Well done.

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