/ Crags for Punters in South Devon/Dartmoor?
Partly trying to get my own climbing head back and I'd quite like my daughter to get back on rock after been stuck climbing indoors for the last 6 months.
The left hand side (looking in) of Dewerstone might be suitable, lots of slabby stuff at easy grades.
Some might mention Sheepstor, which seems to suit at face value, but I find to be quite sandbaggy. With the exception of Wind Wall, which is great and probably soft but HVS, so not necessarily easy.
On the east of the moor, there are some good easy (again on paper) routes at Haytor, but Hound Tor is probably the best bet, if you can get past the in-situ top-ropers.
Many of the other tors dotted around (there are many that offer climbs) have great routes, but are often limited in number, so these are best combined with an intended walk.
The quarries in the Haytor area tend to be loose and sub-standard quality relative to their natural outcrop neighbors.
I'd also suggest a trip out to Bench Tor. There's a few easier rotes there but Oak Tree Zig-Zag is a minor classic in a delightful setting on the edge of oak woodland overlooking the Dart Valley.
Bonehill is also well worth a visit. There's an obvious 30ft slab with a fine crack running up the middle, and variations on each side. It's also a popular bouldering venue and not all of the problems are desperate.
If you do get to The Dewerstone and find the easier routes such as Mucky Gully and Agag's Slab too busy, Tower Buttress to the L of the main area has a deep chimney thru' route which will give your daughter much amusement when she watches you struggle, and The Needle at V Diff followed by Raven Face V Diff on the upper buttresses is a lovely multi-pitch outing at the grade.
Hope the weather is kind to you.
Excellent, wasn't sure whether you'd opened or not. We may well do that if the weather's pish.
Elsewhere on the site
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more