/ UKC Fit Club week 280

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Nomics4sale - on 29 Jul 2012
Starting off early today as I'm not sure what time I'll get back.

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (279) thread:


Posters last week:
mrchewy – you were in good company in Switzerland, blimey! Maximum effort all the time, it’s the way forward.
Daniel Heath – making some friends ;-) Get that first ascent done, show them how hard the limeys can climb!
grubes – well done on demon wall. Keep them coming...
IainRUK – Looking forward to hearing how you do out in the USA
AJM – Did you get to Cheddar and get back on Rave Party? Any good ticks this week?
Ian Bell – did you get outdoors? You’re doing well at the wall, just need to put in practice outdoors to get those goals done
leon – that was a good weekend at Gogarth, nice one on The Strand.
seankenny – got over your initial low? Is the three month sabbatical going well now?
Eric9Points – Can’t comment on the Steve Fallon timing for your STG tick but anyway that’s an awesome time for 22 miles with all that ascent. Nice one!
Si dH – quiet week can be a good thing.
NMN – your Snowdon result doesn’t sound too bad, at least you have analysed and learnt from it
Eagle River – knew you’d cruise Haslam. What the plan now, back to Malham?
biscuit – having a break from the booze? WTF?? How did the onsighting go?
Mr-Cowdrey – that’s a lot of marching! Any climbing this week?
markez – that all sounds a bit complicated but I hope you resolved the conundrum..
migs493 – Caving? Not sure that’s allowed in the fitclub but we’ll let you off..
Kevster – that’s a fantastic day in North Wales, some classic routes done. And it sounds like you cruised them in good style. Nice one! That will set you up well for Lundy.
JimmyKay – Good week for you, even with the low trad psyche. Sport and bouldering not a bad idea in summer.
liz j – broken toe doesn’t seem to have held you back, hope the half went well.
hokkyoksei - did you get to physio about your calf? Easy week for you while you get it sorted?
Quiddity – the start of your training period, more bouldering?
Curious Yellow – hope the elbow is getting better... keep ticking over on easy stuff in the meantime...
mattrm - brief post last week, more to come this week, all sounds very exciting!
ayuplass - busy week and inreased mojo, all good! If you go to ingleton this week give me a shout, I'm keen to get there again.

All present and correct I think apart from Iwan.
Kevster - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:


A very quiet week, after last weekend, didn't go indoors as the wall would be too hot, didn't go outdoors due to a lack of partners. Such a wasted opportunity that, had to go shopping with the GF instead as I was availible.

Hope everyone else had a more exciting weekend,

This coming week: a couple of days in and around Bristol (anyone free? daytime/evening) and at the weekend I plan on both days at the crag, That's the hope anyway!

Cheers! Kev.
mrchewy - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: Cheers!

Nowt this week, back to a maelstrom of a job in London. Will finish Wed and then local for a while with my evenings and weekends to myself.

Hope everyone did better than what we're starting with this week haha.
Sankey - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Had a great time in the Alps, got off to a flying start in the Dolomites by ticking the South face of the Tofana de Roses. Mixed weather meant the rest of the week was on shorter classic muti-pitch trad, and a bit of sport (flashed a 6b at the Cinque Torre). Weather picked up in Chamonix, ticked Domes de Miage , Chapel de le Gliere and the Midi Plan, and ended up doing Mont Blanc from Tete Rouse via the Gouter route, all in 8 days. A great holiday! Need to find some new goals to keep motivated as feeling a bit de-mob happy now...

4 weeks since last report:

T Run 4.6
W Matrix
S HS 6 pitch trad route, 1.5 hr walk in
S 20+pitch HS to 3200 m summit

M 6 pitch HVS
T Numerous pitches up to Severe at Cinque Torre
W 2 pitch HS
T Via Ferrata to 2800 m summit
F Rest
S Classic Severe trad route, then 6a x2, 6a+ and 6b Sport, all flashed/o-sighted
S Travel

M Rest
T Walk into Conscrits hut (4500 feet ascent)
W Domes de Miage (4000 feet ascent)
T 14 pitch VS rock-climb
F Easy single pitch sport in morning
S Short walk from Midi station to Cosmiques Hut
S Midi Plan + descent to Montenvers

M Walk into Tete Rouse (3500 feet ascent)
T Mont Blanc via Gouter Hut (5000 feet ascent)
S Road biked 11 miles 1000 feet
S Ran 4.6 miles

Goals: Involve Mini Mountain Marathons, a 50 min 10 km and some climbing, currently sorting events and realistic aims....
biscuit - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Cheers Nomics.

Yes i am still on the waggon. It's surprisingly hard.
Anyway, last weeks goals:

BF 12% - failed i think ? But not by much
run x4 - done
circuits x2 - done
routes x1 - 6c+ onsight attempt - done
core x3 - done 2
complexes x3 - done 2

M - Nothing
T - pissed off i did nothing yesterday so did: swimming, 30 min run, core (175), complexes, 20 min hill run.
W - Circuits at El Torcalito
T - 6 hours of driving and 6 hours doing the Camino on a very hot day. Too tired to do anything else.
F - Routes at El Chorro
S - 40 min run
S - Circuits, core (175) complexes, swim

Got all the climbing goals done. I've got the makings of a circuit at El Torcalito but it's very (too) intense, busy, warm (35 degrees plus ) and greasy. Had a session on a circuit board today which i may be able to use regularly. It's much better for training as it's in a nice cool garage and easier to make a circuit at my level. I am feeling worked after it and did 6 repeats once i'd figured it out with 2 min rests - 12 move circuit.

On sighting was good. Went to El Chorro and there have been rumours of a white Egyptian Vulture at Desplo causing it to be banned. I had been told of patrolling wardens and large signs everywhere and every crag being banned. We went for a look and saw no wardens, no signs and other people climbing who had no idea what we were talking about. We played it safe and went to another crag at the far end of Desplo. I onsighted Bee Bee a cracking 6c+ and never felt in any trouble physically. Mentally i backed off the lower crux twice and the upper crux 3 times before committing to them. Once committed the felt easy. More work needed but pleased it felt straightforward once committed as it's a good solid 6c+. Sam was very impressive for one of these wall bred kids you hear about as he on-sighted a 7b+ and made it look piss. Actually that route is now on my radar as a project. I top roped it once and felt it could go with some refinement and more fitness. However, there is a PROPER dyno at the top. I'm talking leaping for a large jug, but you have to get it in the right spot, from a ledge. Sounds alright but it's a full on both feet off leap with full commitment. Just what i need to sort my head. One to come back to for sure.

My body fat was all over the place. No booze and good discipline saw me go from 12.5% up to 14.3%. WTF ? I nearly cried. I think i may have been dehydrated again. Does that make the reading higher ? Yesterday it was 11.6% and today 12% so i will look to stay steady at 12% this week.

This week is going to be hard as my wife goes back to the UK Wed a.m. I am climbing Wed p.m. but i think that will be easy climbing with the kids. Looking to get out on Tuesday with Sam so all is not lost. Wife back on Sat so Sun will be circuits on the board or El Torcalito.

This weeks targets:

BF - average of 12%
Routes - 2 sessions, 1 hard 1 easy
circuits - 1
fingerboard PE session - 2
Core - 3
Run - 2
Complexes -3
liz j on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Provisional time for the half is 1.59:05, which I'm pretty pleased with as it was my first one!
grubes - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> grubes – well done on demon wall. Keep them coming...
Cheers, Now you need to lead it.

STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Climb E2/3
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):

This Weeks Goals:
More steep climbing - Tick Steep bouldering, trad and sport this week.

M: Pule hill. Lead 1xVS and 1x HVS
T: Rest some core and pull ups
W: Rest
T: Rest some core and pull ups
F: Rest some core and pull ups
S: Trollers Gill with Eagle river and Nomics. Lead 2x5+ 1x6a and 1x6a+ onsight. Top roped jim grin(7a) getting all the moves now to work it on lead. It will go. Tried angle upstart(7a) on top rope got to the last couple of hard moves. felt doable but at my limit.
S: ALmscliff bouldering with Nomics. Reapeated loads of problems. Also finally put that ****ing 6B to bed. YYFY

Next Weeks goals:
More sport?

Good week. I feel battered and beaten. Was nice meeting some fellow fit clubbers. getting that 6B today was great a small refinement and so easy.
AJM - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Andy - if weight and body fat are all over the shop try multiplying the two to get a "mass of fat" amount and see whether that varies as much...?
biscuit - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:

Weight was consistent enough. 1/2 a kg variation over the week.

I notice it always comes down in large amounts. Nothing will happen for a few days and then one day it suddenly drops 0.5% or more.

I'll try the " mass of fat " though - as disgusting as it sounds ;0)
NMN - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks for doing the stats Nomics4sale.
I feel better about Snowdon from IainR's comments about not being acclimatised to the heat - makes sense.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).

MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon

M - rest.
T - working away.
W - working away.
T - working away.
F - 7.48m trail run, 773ft.
S - 6.03m trail run, 698ft.
S - am: indoor routes, 5, 5 & 6a; pm: 6.02m trail run, 698ft.

Needed rest after Snowdon but then couldn't get out with working away.
Enjoyed sneaking a few indoor routes today while there with the kids for a birthday. Will have an easy week because doing Borrowdale on Saturday, where the aim is just to get round.
Daniel Heath - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I worked their bendcrete route again and quickly got all the moves, but there are 3 very low percentage moves and I probably won't be able to try it before I leave.

This week I've done some slabby sport and some trad.

Their trad was cool, like the Roaches but bigger.

I can see why gritstone is so well celebrated though. Jamming on colorado granite is painful.

I've been slacklining loads, and did a set of 21 pull ups the other day.
Stone_donkey - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Haven't posted for a couple of weeks. Not much happening and going to take a break from Fit Club for a while since my once a week session at the wall just isn't enough to be called 'training'. Going to see if I can consolidate the 6b level indoors but think with the commitment I can give it at the moment I can't see myself going much higher, and outdoors just isn't happening for one reason or another. Best of luck to those of you with more time and dedication than me - keep at it!

Kevster - give me a call if you get stuck again for partners. Sat often difficult with family taxi-ing etc but Sun's often a possibility.
ayuplass - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
ayuplass - busy week and inreased mojo, all good! If you go to ingleton this week give me a shout, I'm keen to get there again. - I was on holiday there with m mum and aunty, managed to escape for some climbing, interesting wall!
Knees still playing up so I'm stopping running/cycling and stretching everyday

Mon - pm stretching
Tues -am stretch pm Wharncliffe 2nd VS 5a which was HARSH and a HVD. wanted to have a nice easy positive leading experience as I haven't done any for over a month and I've lost my head again (if I ever had it back tbh) so I led a Diff chimney which was very nice. Partner declared it 'strenuous'. Really good evening, enjoyed it
Weds - am stretch
Thurs - am &pm stretch
Fri -am stretch
Sat - walk down the valley, knee still grinding. Pm stretch
Sun - am & pm stretch

I've developed a chest infection which is making me breathless and knackered so resting is a good idea all round
AJM - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Bit of a random up and down of a week, but overall turned out ok I think.

Monday - Circus Circus, Cheddar. Decided to do something more inspiring than Rave Party since the weather was better. Such a good route, ace fun. Got the crux sequence sorted out not too badly, and some links on the lower section - good progress for first real session on it. Should be redpointing next session after a bit more familiarisation.
Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - got told my contracts being terminated early. Downside - no work after 2 weeks time, upside - free time to plan holiday in. Anyway, got to Cheddar in the evening, but Circus Circus was occupied so I tried Cheddar Death Knell which I didn't like and am not psyched for. I think given Circus Circus shares a start with a popular 8a and 8a+ I'll have to start working on Valley of the Blind or Human Zoo to have something to do on evenings when I get to the route second. Rubbish evening really.
Thursday - was going to go to Huntsham bouldering but a bomb scare at Bristol Parkway means it took me 3 hours to get home. Nothing done.
Friday - nothing
Saturday - Cheddar with Nick and Hazel. Put the clips in House Burning Down for them, and did it in 2 later on as well. Such good moves. There was another team top roping Sing a Mean Toon, Kid for a lot of the day but when they left I managed to get a go up it on lead and another on toprope to clean the draws at the end of the day. Went well - got a sequence for the lower section relatively sorted, and worked out a sequence for the 5-slap top section. A great feeling, felt basically impossible last year and this year I managed to link to falling off the final slap in one from the base of the crux on the toprope clean. Great to feel a step change in improvement over a year. Still going to be a damned tough 7b+ though, very sustained with not many usefully placed rests.
Sunday - wet, we went to Brean, wandered over to the crag sans sacks, it was sunny but the thunderclouds were massing just out to sea. Walked back to the car, and by the time we got there it started to rain. So we went to TCA. Beasted myself on some steep problems and hit the circuits. 2 6b circuits onsight, then got 6c+ circuit in 2 (move 23 on my onsight go, spent too much time searching for a rest which never materialised), then started redpoints, got to hold 28, 27, and 32 out of 34 on my 3 redpoints. Close, pleased with it especially the last go.

- So a few good sessions. Pleased with progress on Circus Circus, keen to try and tick that one. Good to see the step change in my ability on Sing a Mean Toon, Kid, went from super low percentage individual moves off the bolt to a moderately low percentage entire sequence off the bolt
- Rolling average weight not perfect at the minute but will look pretty good once a few bad results on Mon/Tues bleed out. 72.8 at the moment but past few days have been 72.2-72.3
- Bad news on lack of work
- Better news in that I've managed to arrange 2-2.5 weeks in the Gorge du Loup with a few beast strong climbers to pass my unemployment (or at least it's first stage, although fingers crossed it won't be long!), followed by a week in Cham I already had planned with my other half. So the next week to 10 days has to be about desperate fitness training efforts, attempts at weight loss and maybe a bit of falling too.
Si dH - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM: good luck with jobs Andy. Btw I can organise the spain trip a bit if houre still lacking someone, let me know. Just havent done much with my emails this week as work has been mad.
Si dH - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Cheers Nomics.

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 3**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon, Scoop Wall, Darius and The Strand**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet - fell off Mad Dogs and Englishmen today **
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - **for progress see below**

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **now need 2*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+ and 1*7c**

Long term goals (2013): - Tick 7c in France or Spain - Multiple grit and limestone E3s

M: Nothing I dont think.
T: Bouldering at Alter rock. Got some decent mileage on the new problems, nothing too hard tho, it was very hot.
W: Good fingerboard session.
T: Did some core training while watching the footy.
F: Did a short fingerboard session. Then went for our first skiing lesson at tamworth. I was rubbish - after 3 hours I still couldnt snowplough in a straight line, whereas ruth (my wife) was coming all the way down from the top and doing proper turns! I think she liked being better than me
S: no real training but did lots of walking round town and went to a ceilidh, managed 28000 steps on my gcc pedometer. Drank and ate quite a lot too mind...
S: cheedale. Lapped the 6b on max's a couple of times to warm up then went over to 2 tier. Main aim was Mad Dogs, a classic E3. I made good progress, did the crux but then fell off crossing the roof - I realised from sitting on the rope that I needed to go much further left, and it was then ok. Bit annoying as the guidebook line is definintely wrong, but I should still have been able to work it out really. Reasonably pleased with attempt altho obv disappointed to lose the onsight. The heavens then opened before I could get on anything else.

AJM - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers buddy.

I'll send you an email, probably tomorrow now, with the addresses of the people who replied saying they were keen or wanted to be kept informed. If I forget, pester me! Hopefully Ali and I will still be in but it depends so much on when I restart work as I don't want to be taking a holiday like 2weeks in or something, doesn't look great!
Si dH - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Si dH:
PS my calves were totally bolloxed today and contributed more to me falling off than my forearms - I just had no power left in my feet to stay on the small dinks. Anyone got any training tips other than just standing the edge of a step??
AJM - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Don't know, but I'm glad it's not just me - my run of E2s in May/June were characterised more by pumped calves than pumped forearms...!
Ian Bell - on 29 Jul 2012
Goals for this year

10 more 7a (2/12)
2x7a+ (1/2)

M-F - rested. Achy elbows at the moment so decided to have a bit of a break.
S - Masson lees quarry. O/s 3x6a, TR with one rest 6c. RP 7a+ Hilti sound system. Only 7a in Rockfax which felt fair ish but will take the higher UKC grade. First ever 7a+. Good route, no hard moves but pumpy.
S - Cheedale. 3 6bs all with rests, feeling a bit lazy. Left for london mid afternoon as showery.

2 new venues this week. Masson Lees was OK at best. The easy routes are a bit chossy but a couple of OK 6as. Taller walls looked OK although not mega inspiring. Route I did was nice and crimpy. Soft for 7a+. Harpur Hill is better.

Chee dale clearly much better. Had a bit of a wander and looked at things. Didn't go to the hard stuff but still good. Plum buttress looks amazing!
Si dH - on 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Ian Bell:
Glad you enjoyed cheedale. Once you get into it youll never touch a chossy quarry again.
Next time you visit there is a nice 6b on maxs (crux crimpy start can be avoided at 6a+), a nice a 6b+ on embankment ( awkward in places tho) and another good 6b+ on 2 tier altho its a bit powerful for the grade up to the second bolt. Quite a few good 6cs around them too.
Ian Bell - on 30 Jul 2012
Sounds good Si. Yep was a bit of a result getting people to Cheedale. I was sold already, went there once for a look but not a climb years ago, but people I usually climb with thought it would be too hard for them. They all seemed enthused though so hopefully a new destination added.
seankenny - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks Mr Nomics.

Goals: 7a+/5.12a, E3/10d, El Cap.

M: Up early and drove to Portland. We went to Coastguard South, it was gopping and slimy thanks to sea mist. Did some routes up to 6b when the sun finally got on the crag, excellent crag even if I wasn't climbing very well.
T: To Battleship in the morning, routes up to 6b until the sun got on the crag, then around to Cheyne Wears where I did Julie Ocean, 6c+, wiht one hang and one fall, and retro-flashed a 6b+.
W: Knackered!
T: Drive to my mum's house in Yorkshire with my partner and her folks.
F: Great day sightseeing in Yorkshire, up to the moors and the coast. In the evening I got a few hours bouldering at the deeply esoteric Thornwick Bay. This was my old bouldering crag when I lived in Bridlington as a kid, it's a chalk cliff on Flamborough Head. Had a good session, we did some problems up to about V3/4 and a few stamina traverses. The rock is actually quite good, often very fingery but interspersed with slopers and smooth, wave-washed, sand-blasted stuff for your feet. Looked at some problems I remember finding impossible from my youth, they were indeed quite hard.
S: More seaside fun.
S: Drove back to London, then to the Westway in the afternoon. Bouldering up to about V3/4 then laps. Did my old circuit, the hardest version, laps x 4, 3m on, 3m - 3m30s off. Climbed to failure on 4th lap at 2m48s.

So, the first full week of my sabatical. It was pretty good! Climbing at Portland mid-week was ace, really felt a bit naughty being out to play when the rest of the world is at work. Wasn't climbing that well, but got into the groove on the second day. I found I'm not as fit as I'd like to be but I'm sure that will come - doing laps on Sunday I found I'm about where I was a month ago, so altho no progress, I've not gone backwards.

Just need a few more productive weeks like this and I'll be set for the States in three weeks )
Nomics4sale - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

STG: RP 7a+, Lead E1
MTG: do trek
LTG: Lead more E1s, RP 7a in a day, lead more 6c/+s

Mon: nowt
Tues: 9.5 mile run Forest of Bowland, 320m ascent
Wed: nowt
Thurs: 8.7 mile run Forest of Bowland, 560m ascent
Fri: nowt
Sat: Trollers Gill with Eagle River, grubes and others. RP angel Dust 7a+, at last!!
Sun: Almscliff bouldering, lots of problems and V4 tick.

Finally got Angel Dust done. Not particularly good style - I'd preclipped a high bolt and I was shaking like a leaf all the way up. But anyway it's done now. Not sure what I can do about the shaking like a leaf thing? I think it's cos I have been trad climbing a fair bit lately and my mindset for trad is to NOT FALL OFF. Sport climbing you are supposed to not be scared of falling, the polar opposite, and I'm not really buying into that when I'm on a sport route. Maybe I need to do some falling practice. Might get the opportunity soon as it looks like the weather is gonna crap out again.

Bouldering was good on Sunday, grubes talked me up a lot of problems which was ace and I'm chuffed to have got an outdoor V4 tick.

Got a trad day booked with Nik Jennings this week, which I was really looking forward to. But that may be rained off now.
AJM - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Nice one!

Style - don't worry too much - a tick is a tick and all it means is that you will be climbing a bit harder once you have the style tidied up a bit
Nomics4sale - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:

thanks. Yeah that's what I'm telling myself... let it go... a tick is a tick!
hokkyokusei - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> hokkyoksei - did you get to physio about your calf? Easy week for you while you get it sorted?

I didn't get to the physio, just carried on with the exercises I'd been doing and stuck to the bike, which seemed to help. Went for my first run on Sunday and, while my knees were bloody hurting, my calf managed ok.

m - cycling 5.56 km, 5.57 km
t - cycling 5.53 km, 5.59 km
w - cycling 5.53 km, 5.57 km
t - cycling 5.60 km, 5.63 km
f - cycling 5.59 km, 5.57 km
s -
s - trail running 8.33 km

First time I've managed to cycle to and from work every day so quite pleased about that.
grubes - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Oh yeah I was going to add this to my post.

Any of you having problems with injuries here is a nice blog to put it into perspective: http://robbiephillips.co.uk/natblog/?p=287

Really well written and honest. Definately worth a read imho
pebbles - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: right, I'm going to give this a try
was out on sunday at almscliff, decided to try and set some bouldering goals (if the weather cooperates)
*complete the cruxifix traverse - good one for me as I'v never completed a v4 yet
*have a proper go at the cruxifix - easy I know but for some reason it does my head in
Training goals which arent weather dependent:
*start getting up half an hour early on weekdays to do fingerboard or exercise session. Started on this one today
Nomics4sale - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to pebbles:

woo!!! welcome to the fold!!
biscuit - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Surely the 28000 steps was more to do with it than the climbing ?

My suggestion would be more dancing ;0)
Banned User 77 - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

m: am: 5.1 mile road run. pm: 6.1 mile road run
t: am: 5.1 mile road run. pm: 6.1 mile road run
w: am 5.5 mile road run. pm: 6.1 mile road run.
t: am: 5.1 mile road run. pm: 9.6 mile road/trail run.
f: am: 5.1 mile run. pm: 5 mile road race. 1st in a slow 29:00, legs tight,
s: am: 5.5 mile run. pm: 43 miles road bike. eve: 5.1 mile run
s: 14 mile run @ 6:30 min mile pace. 20 mile bike ride.
biscuit - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

I met robbie a couple of years ago in Kaly and i've followed his blog since. His stuff about himself is very personal, honest and open. Always worth a read.
Eagle River - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks Nomics and well done on Angel Dust - next project!

Goals: 7b+ by the end of the year, Hasta Luego Luca at Loja, 2nd 5th of traverse at Craig Y Longridge.

Mon: routes indoors, fell 4 times from the last couple of moves of the 7b+ I've been trying. Feels close.
Tues & Wed: elbow rehab
Thurs: indoor bouldering. Thought I'd take it easy but got easily distracted by harder problems. Did 4 V6s, two flashed. Finished with some energy left so as not to aggravate elbows
Sat: trollers gill with Grubes, Nomics and others. Did Spent Youth first lead attempt after puttin the clips in and having a top rope go. First 7b in a session in this country so happy with that.

Good week, need to keep up the elbow rehab despite finding it tedious.

biscuit - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Well done !

I still crap myself and the only thing i've found that settles my head is lots of easy mileage and raise the bar very slowly. You then get used to being above bolts in a comfortable way.

Falling practice is useful but to me it's a bit false. i can let go when i've shouted down to my belayer that i am going to. I find it very different on an onsight when i am wibbling my way into the unknown and could fall off anytime. A trusted belayer helps me a lot as does communication. Shouting 'watch me' is not a sign of weakness i do it a lot and it settles my mind a bit knowing the belayer is being extra attentive. It's also like admitting publicly you may be about to fail and it makes me grit my teeth a bit more and fight on.

On a redpoint there is always the chance you're going to fall off. Practicing the fall from the point you're worried about is helpful to minimise fear of the unknown, but you have to accept you're climbing at your limit and may fall. I tell myself that i want the route, and if i want it enough, i will do it and overcome the fear.

It may also be arousal rather than fear and that can be a good thing. Adrenalin can be useful, but shaking is a bit too much i guess. Controlled breathing works to calm me down a bit.

Why do we do it eh ?

Well done again though - no points for style only kudos for grades :0)
biscuit - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

First 7b in a session in this country so happy with that.

Just spotted that, nice one. 7b+ before the end of the year will be easy.

> Good week, need to keep up the elbow rehab despite finding it tedious.

Keep it up though it's got to be done.
Nomics4sale - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for that, some good advice. I was actually shaky even on the easy sections. oh well.
mattrm - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks for doing fit club Nomics4sale. Had a great holiday did lots of climbing.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs

16th - 21st - Rest pre trip and travelling out
S - Lagginhorn (4010m)
M - Walk up to Hosaas hut
T - Weissmeis (4023m)
W - Travel from Saas to Zermatt
T - Breithorn (4164m)
F - Rifflehorn - AD ridge on a 3000m peak
S - Rest day (raining)
S - Travel home

Great week all in. 3, 4000ers bagged and an AD route done. Will put up pics and a blog post later on. Knee held up fine, so going to get back into the fitness and weight loss. See if I can get some trad miles in at the end of the year.
biscuit - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Sounds like over arousal to me. Just too wound up about it and worried,scared etc. All negative emotions. Try and reverse it into positivity.

Yes the route is hard, but you're worked the moves and trained for it. You've picked that route because you want it. If you don't make it to the top what will happen ? Nothing that will actually affect your life or self worth. Even Nic would say well done for giving it a go. It's only climbing after all.

BTW if you manage to do that let me know how you did it.

For onsighting I generally get very wound up, scared and focus on the crux before i've even got there. I tell myself all the way up i won't make it and dither terribly at hard sections. I then either tell myself to just try it and commit ( and funnily enough normally do it ) or fall off having not really tried my best but the worst is i used to kid myself that i had tried my hardest. My most common form of self deceit is to climb level to a bolt and fail to commit to the next section hang around for ages and then 'fall' because i am too pumped. It took me ages to realise that what i was doing was making it look as if i was giving 100% whilst not doing so and making sure i 'fell' in a place i was comfortable with.

For RP'ing my nerves come from fear of failure - it's only climbing but there's a lot of me wrapped up in climbing because it's so important to me. They also come from knowing my chances of falling off are high if it's a climb that's at my limit.

I am slowly learning that committing leads to success a very high percentage of the time ( as long as you're not on something stupid hard for you ) and not committing leads to failure. I know which i'd prefer but i just need to tell my subconscious.

I also find as soon as i stop working on one aspect ( onsighting or redpointing ) i lose a lot of ground quickly.
Curious Yellow - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Hey Nomics, thanks for doing the thread and congratulations on the tick

Biscuit - elbows argh. It's tennis, caused by getting carried away on the campus board and/or pinging off a greasy crimp, no pain at the time but plenty the following morning. Bashed the elbow a couple of times and then retwanged it over the following fortnight but for the last two weeks or so have been climbing more cautiously and doing eccentrics, massage etc and it's settling down. Any tip for speeding the process up would be very welcome! Are yours still bad?

Mon - Castle. Unbearably hot.
Tues - Castle. Even hotter but a surprisingly good session ticking stuff I'd been avoiding.
Wedns - Arch. Blue circuit (20x V2-4), 9x greens (V3-5).
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cheddar. Couple of TRs on House Burning Down. Great route, keen to get back soon.
Sun - TCA Bristol. Tired. Lots of easy stuff.

Eric9Points - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Monday - gym, mainly upper body and leg stretches.
Tuesday - gym, 5k on the treadmill (it was pissing down outside)
Wed - Short run, 3.8 miles on the flat.
Thurs - began to realise I should have rested longer after last week. Knees and heels sore and feeling jaded so rested.
Fri/Sat/Sun - rest.
leon on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
STG: Nothing
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(5). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth(tick). Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(92)
Fat %: 9.4%
Focus: Strength(2/4)

Mon: Weights. Core.
Tue: Bouldering @ Newstones (max V4).
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Friend Over.
Fri: Stanage(max VS). Lawrencefield(max e1).
Sat: Family weekend away.
Sun: ARC. Repeaters.

Thanks for starting the thread Nomics. Yes, Gogarth was amazing, I love sea cliffs.

Another week light on training. At least Monday was a good session. Tuesday finished early after I ripped my skin apart trying a V7 (worked all moves except crux which was starting to yield).

Friday I went out with an old friend who has not climbed for years so we took it easy. I did try for one hard route, Cave Eliminate @ Stanage. However I wasn't convinced I had worked out the correct sequence for the V3 start, went up and down quite a few times but wasn't sure and didn't want to blow the onsight (don't think it was fear but you never know) Then over to Lawrencefield to try Suspense, only by this time my mate had decided I couldn't climb e2 & convinced me I should do Great Peter instead. Doing Great Peter convinced me I should have been on the e2.

Next week my STG is to finally do a full week of training: 3 core, 1 weights, 1 push & pull, 2 CIRVIR bouldering (providing my bouldering room doesn't flood), 1 ARC, 1 4x4.
Ali - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: Had a manic couple of weeks with work, getting in the Olympic spirit and weddings! All of which has meant not much exercise done....

Only real thing to report from last week was a good session at Westway with Quiddity. Really showed up my lack of stamina as seemed to warm up ok, try a route of two which pushed me a bit, but then had wasted forearms - they weren't feeling pumped in the normal sense, I just couldn't hold on on steep stuff! The up side of this was I got a lot of practice falling off (thanks Nick for being patient!) and was starting to get a bit less scared about falling on steep/stepped walls towards the end. Definitely think its something I need to do every tuime I do routes training, as am still not 'happy' with it, and still focusing a lot on that rather than how to climb the route most efficiently.

Elbow also seems to be a bit better, though that's maybe becuse of the enforced rest - haven't been great at doing my physio exercises as just haven't been able to find the time. Trying to perservere with neck strengthening ones though as apparently that's the root cause of my aches and pains!

Should be able to post properly next week now I'm a bit more settled work wise (though not sure how working shifts will affect ability/energy to train).
Nomics4sale - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thinking about it now, I do have a bit of history with redpointing, I fell off the first route I tried to redpoint in 2008 with pretty dire consequences (badly broken leg, protracted recovery over the next 3 years with 5 operations, 18 months off my feet blah blah blah). I think maybe that might have something to do with my shaking like a leaf thing.... No idea what I can do about it tho apart from keeping at it and taking the falls...
Kevster - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Always hypnosis if you run a blank else where.

Falling is an issue for most, full body elvis impressions are worth working hard on.
JayK - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

M- Trad at Crookrise and a few boulders at Snowden Crags. Went for a 8K run in the evening.
T- Bouldering at Brimham. Very warm conditions but it so nice being outside. Bailed when the midges got a bit too much.
W- Travelled back to Brum.
T- Nesscliffe bouldering. Failed a boulder a few times - I blame the conditions! Nice to sun bathe in though! Ran round the Orme in Llandudno (8.64K in 37:21 - so a relatively slow pace)
F- Porth Ysgo. Really recommend this place. Absolutely beautiful location. Trashed my skin though after a day at Nessy then here. Could barely pull on. Did all the classics up to v5 and got plenty of sun burn...
S- Rest day. Mainly watched the Olympics.
S- Bouldered at Pantymwyn in the evening. Did a couple of things and then fell off a couple of things. Really nice evening.

Had a classy week. Despite not really ticking any big numbers, or even getting on much hard stuff, I've really enjoyed soaking in all the sun and atmosphere of places this week. Awesome.
Quiddity - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Well done on getting the job done Nomics. Anyone can get the tick when the route feels easy and they are psyched for it - having to manually psyche up to tick a route that has become a bit of a mental block is a hard hard process but an essential part of what makes a good consistent climber, and that effort is all experience in the bank.

re. shaking like a leaf - I think this is something that will mostly come with experience. Something Steve Mac told me was that you can only get better at these situations (ie. being on lead on a hard/mentally difficult redpoint) by repeatedly putting yourself in that situation. For sure, you can prepare for it in training but at the end of the day, when the chips are down and you need to pull a top performance out of the bag - that, you can only properly prepare for from having been in a similar situation lots of times before. Think of it this way - when you are on a tense redpoint and your insides are churning and you are having to fight your body and your mind to stay in control, you are in a zone where it is possible to learn and gain experience and make progress toward being a stronger, better, braver climber.

Being comfortable with falling - oh no I said it. Yes it will help massively. As well as the more basic controlled falls at the wall (and I deffo think it is beneficial to clock up a big volume of air miles here), I really find taking falls off my redpoint projects massively useful because they transfer a lot more specifically to that situation and that route. Go to the moves on your route that make you nervous, and assuming they are safe, take the fall. If it makes you really nervous and you can't contemplate falling from there, fall from one move before, or one move before that, or one move before that. For me, if I do this, when I actually get on redpoint I am able to reassure myself that although it might still 'feel' scary, it is not 'actually' scary because I've taken the fall and it was fine. Bizarrely this then seems to make it feel less scary. It sounds like a laborious process but once you have gone through it on one or two routes, it starts to take a lot less time, and it is certainly less effort than failing on redpoint repeatedly because you won't commit to a move that you are scared of falling off.

There are a load of strategies for mentally preparing yourself for a big redpoint and dealing with over-arousal in general though. Visualisation is the biggest one. You can work on developing a pre-redpoint ritual that works for you but I generally take myself off for five minutes just before going for it - go somewhere quiet, close my eyes, listen to music, and visualise the route in detail. If you get it right, you can come back in the zone and focus on the rituals of tying in and lacing shoes etc. without coming out of the bubble. It is a really big subject and there is loads you can do to make your mental preparation more sophisticated and systematic - I seem to remember that the Goddard & Neumann book (Performance Rock Climbing) has a really good chapter on this stuff. It sounds a bit touchy-feely but I seem to remember the effects of visualisation on sport performance are one of the most reliable, widely replicated findings in sport psychology and they are well substantiated by our understanding of how the brain works.

It also costs nothing and requires no physical effort so there is no excuse for not doing it

Also, it took me ages to realise that you don't need to feel bad about feeling scared. Everyone gets scared, it's just some people have better ways of managing it.

Listen to Jerry...
Quiddity - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> Thinking about it now, I do have a bit of history with redpointing, I fell off the first route I tried to redpoint in 2008 with pretty dire consequences (badly broken leg, protracted recovery over the next 3 years with 5 operations, 18 months off my feet blah blah blah). I think maybe that might have something to do with my shaking like a leaf thing.... No idea what I can do about it tho apart from keeping at it and taking the falls...

Sorry just read this.

I can't find my copy of Performance Rock Climbing but I *think* the mental skills chapter has a section on what they call 'memory replacement' or 'memory extinction' or some such. It's an advanced visualisation technique which is used in sport psychology, basically the idea is that after a thorough analysis of what went wrong (and how it could have been avoided) to re-program your memory with repeated visualisation of the accident but with an alternative, happy ending in which you resolve the situation safely (which will be specific to your accident). The idea is that your brain doesn't know the difference between actual memory and false memory, so by establishing a more positive, constructive memory of how things would turn out next time, the power of the actual traumatic memory should be lessened and should you ever end up in a similar situation, you have associated memories about how to deal with it safely.

Espresso Lessons (Arno Ilgner) also covers similar ground but his emphasis is on rational procedures and clarity of thinking, rather than visualisation. Also recommended but be warned that Ilgner's writing style is a bit like the marmite of climbing training books.

To be honest this type of stuff, while widely used in other sports, is not covered very well in the training-for-climbing literature, so as I find it fascinating I ended up reading a lot of sport psychology books. I definitely recommend doing this if it is something you are interested in, but it can require a lot of wading through.

Good luck anyhow.
Nomics4sale - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

hmm... interesting stuff. I can see the sense in taking deliberate falls, and working up to the crux fall. I've not really thought through the psychology of it, I've been operating under the assumption that the best way to do it is to do it, if you know what I mean. I should probably read up about it... if I can summon the mental energy!!
Quiddity - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Yes, I was just reflecting that probably the easiest way (or at least the least technical way) is just to keep doing what you're doing, you are clearly getting results and are making progress? I think the more technical visualisation approaches might be useful if you feel like memories of your accident are stopping you from moving forwards, but as long as you are making progress, perhaps it is something that can be overcome just through more redpoint experience.
Quiddity - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks Nomics. Good start to training plan this week. Pleased to get HBD ticked, it's been on my list for ages and is a great route. Have at least broken the ice on seriously attempting to flash 7b+, at this point it seems like fantasy land but I guess you need to try these things for them to feel realistic.

STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:32 +1
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7b+ tick, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive
tick Nightmare Scenario and Road Rage

Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.
Contemplate 8a+ pyramid

8b ?!

Estimated move volume approx: 998 moves (47%-43%-9%-2% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh; 31:69 routes:bouldering) L forearm still a bit tweaky after thursday, think it's complaining about a sudden change in the volume of climbing I am doing, so backing off a little next week - aiming to keep total volume mostly flat.

M: Westway, routes with Ali. Mostly onsight. 12 pitches including 2x6b+, 1x6c, 1x6c dog and 1x6c+ 3rd go. PM - Castle. 21 problems total, including 1xV4 and ticked the V7 proj (! 3rd day on, 2nd session of the day WTF)
T: rest. Tried to fingerboard but sacked it after a warm up and crappy first set.
W: Arch, volume. 62 problems total. Aimed for complete green and red circuits. Completed except for a couple on each circuit. Including 5xV5, 12xV4, 17xreds (V3-5), 14xV3.
T: Gym in AM. Aiming for a light boulder in the PM but sacked it off after 32 problems (10xV1-3) Something tweaky in L forearm.
S: Cheddar. Wanted to go for the flash on House Burning Down, first serious attempt to flash 7b+. Warmed up on Rustler (6c), big mistake, got a bit of a flash pump. Went for the flash with loads of beta (good sequence, thanks Andy!), hoping to at least get to the crux but got mega flash pump on the steep bit. Rested, then fell off RPs 1 and 2 but got it last go of the day. Pretty shoddy tactics all in all but trying to be a bit more 'just-go-for-it' so overall quite happy. V pleased to get 7b+ in a day.
S: Weather bit dicey. Sacked it off in favour of a decent sesh at TCA. Did a few problems, didn't really keep track of much but managed to flash a 6C and RP a 7A+ on the mothership. Finished up getting mega pump on the 6b-6c+ circuits.

Next week:
Aim for 900 moves, 70% bouldering, . 3x bouldering sessions, 1x routes 1x beastmaker, 1x weights plus outdoors at weekend.
AJM - on 31 Jul 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

I hadn't realised you had ticked that 7A+ in the end... effort.

You'll have to visit again soon for SaMTK...
biscuit - on 01 Aug 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow

Why do you always bang bits that are already sore ?

I've had a lot of golfers and an acute injury that seems to have left me with tennis elbow.

I have found that avoiding the style of climb that aggravate whichever type you have helps to start - but i've always been able to climb as hard as i can in other styles and i think it's important not to stop totally.

Ice cubes in water have helped a lot - i think more than the weights you can do, but i did those as well to be on the safe side.

I have found day to day activities aggravate my tennis elbow. Typing ) oops ! ) using a mouse, driving and belaying. I keep my brake hand ( which is the sore one ) as straight as i can and that seems to help. ANy bend in the elbow, even if there is only a tiny loads such as holding as rope. causes it to inflame. I pull ropes through predominantly with my healthy arm and loads of other little things like that.

I was advised by my physio to get a strap as it shares the load over the other tendons. I was a bit sceptical and thought it would be a crutch that would stop the injury from healing. I then had a run of clients who were physio's, Dr's and a surgeon. They all recommended i get a strap so i did and it works. i wear it during the day and when belaying but not for climbing as i pump out on that arm after about 3 metres.

Hope that helps some but the biggest difference for me was changing the day to day activities that annoyed it.
markez on 04 Aug 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: Just ambled round the local climbing wall with a spot of bouldering and easy top-rope this week. Solved the 2 finger hang dilemma by getting stronger... fun stuff !

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