/ Worth going to Verdon...?

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RickGrundy - on 30 Jul 2012

Heading out to the Haute Provence for a couple of weeks at the end of August on a sport climbing trip.

Whilst we're in the area(ish) we are wondering about having a few days in the Verdon Gorge to do some big routes. The only problem is that we will only have a single rope (70m), and won't be able to take much in the way of a trad rack.

Is it possible to climb some of the big routes on single ropes, and are there any well enough bolted to not need any trad gear at all? Or if we can use a single rope can I manage with a limited trad rack, and what's should I take if this is the case?

We would probably not want to go much harder than around 6b+ for all day affairs.

SteveSBlake - on 30 Jul 2012
In reply to RickGrundy:

Rick, you could have a go at La Demande, walking in via the tunnels means you don't need to ab in, and you could/would only want a 'minimal' rack. Last time I did it we placed a few blue/gold camalots and a couple of small med wires.

The bottom is in the sun, (not good given it's August) but after about pitch five you are in the chimney system and out of the direct sun. You may get the benefit of an afternoon updraft

It's quite stiff at 6a+ (IMHO it's harder), and long but a great adventure. The big question would be if 35m abs would work if you bailed. I reckon you'd have to rig a couple of intermediaries.

All belays are bolted, with large ring bolts and bolts pretty much where you need them, it's polished but not excessively so.

The top half of Pilier des Ecureuils may also be out of the sun, not sure about many others.

It is very, very, hot in August.



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