/ Recommend me a Peak E3

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Cake - on 06 Aug 2012
Calling all grit aficionados!

I have been bagging a few E2s in the last three years, such as Pearls (Chatsworth), Rack direct (Reecastle), The Sentinel (Burbage), Life During Wartime (Bamford. Really E2, not E3), Argus... the list goes on a little longer if you look at my logbook. I also cheated on Canoe by putting a side runner in.

Anyway, the other day I onsighted Telli E3 6a at Stanage, which I am pleased with, but it didn't feel like much of a step up and, though it had good climbing, it didn't give me that great feeling that I had conquered something good, (yes, it's only 10m high or so).

So, can you help me find the right E3 to aspire to soon? It may look as though I can only climb slabs, but I'm not known for my great footwork and I do have a bit of endurance (but I had no chance on the Rasp the other week!)

P.S. I live in Sheffield and I'm just about to have another child, so not too far please!
Jonny2vests - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Millstone has some nice E3s, Twikker - burly at times but with good rests, Time for Tea - a giveaway if you've got the head. I think Black Hawk Bastion is a good and safe E3 breakthrough route. One of my favourite Peak E3s though is not on grit - Adjudicator Wall on the Watchblock in Dovedale.
deacondeacon - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake: Looking forward to seeing the recommendations on this thread, my logbook is practically a photocopy of yours. Good luck.
jacobjlloyd - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests: Tippler direct - guaranteed to feel like a full value E3 tick.
Jeromecooper - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10053

My first E3, you@ll love it if your a slab man.
silo - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:Get your self down to cheedale and try absent friends.
Jon Read - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
Some well protected ones (apart from the first move of Asp):
The Asp, Stanage -- superb route.
Banana Wall, Wharncliffe -- good honest wall climbing
Apaloosa Sunset, 5 clouds, Roaches
San Melas, Roaches Skyline -- should both suit your slab style?
mark20 - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
You'd cruise up something like Wall End Slab Super Direct or In Off/Millsom's Direct, or my first E3 was Waterloo Sunset at Gardoms - bomber cams in the break then a slabby/arete font5+ to good holds and the top.

Or for something completely different try Jumping Jack Longland, the roof finish above Auricle at Bamford, quite steady really.
colin struthers - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to mark20: I'd second that, especially if you have a quick peek at the finishing hold (100% thank god) which makes the journey across the roof a lot less daunting.
Stanners - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to jacobjlloyd:
tippler direct is effin awesome - and pretty easy if you are tall! Defo do that!
jas wood - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake: Billy whizz, good tackle where its needed and satisfying route !
jet runners a doddle for E4 IMO
In reply to jas wood:
> (In reply to Cake) Billy whizz, good tackle where its needed and satisfying route !


... and pretty soft for E3?


Chris

Jonny2vests - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to jas wood)
> [...]
>
>
> ... and pretty soft for E3?
>
>
> Chris

I'd give it E3, but I probably did three more moves than you. Found it easier than Boulevard.

Boulevard! I recommend that.
Si dH - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
Are you interested in limestone as well, or just grit? If lime is good, id recommend absent friends as someone else said; some others at chee tor also look good, eg rave on and 42nd st. I tried mad dogs and englishman last week, fell off but if you like lime its not that desperate and is reasonably protected with some thought.
Si
Dave Garnett - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
>
> I'd give it E3, but I probably did three more moves than you.

Ditto!
Dave Garnett - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Black Grub - Beeston?


Another vote for Appaloosa Sunset (easier than San Melas, I think)
In reply to Dave Garnett and J2V:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>

True, but I bet you guys have both got skinny fingers that actually fit in the crack!


Chris

;-)
Jonny2vests - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to Cake)
> Are you interested in limestone as well, or just grit? If lime is good, id recommend absent friends as someone else said; some others at chee tor also look good, eg rave on and 42nd st. I tried mad dogs and englishman last week, fell off but if you like lime its not that desperate and is reasonably protected with some thought.
> Si

Mad Dogs, so good. There are some pretty amazing E3s on Limestone when you think about it.
madmats - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to mark20:

Personally I wouldn't recommend Waterloo sunset, felt pretty serious when I did it, with deck out potential off some tricky, thin moves.

I would, however, agree with 'Mad dogs...', also felt like a tough E3, albeit a safe one. 42nd street at Chee tor is also ace, and probably not too hard, but quite runout.

I think the best suggestion so far (that I've done) is Time for tea, absolute cracker, safe as houses, and with good scare potential.
ctodd - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Adjudicator wall.
Christheclimber - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

If you want Grit then The Asp is good at Stanage
Cake - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
Thanks all. I tried Black Hawk Bastion the other week and couldn't figure out the crux, even second go. Tippler direct does look good value, although last time I looked at it from the floor I was pretty baffled!

To the Limestone enthusiasts, I'm keen and becoming aware that at about this level, rock types are where it's at really, but I've only ever onsighted HVS or E1 on lime, although with quite a bit of sport recently.

So the Asp is a proper E3, right?
Cake - on 07 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
^...at this level, other rock types... that is
Boy - on 08 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake: I'd say The Asp is proper E3.
A couple of safe hard ones that are brilliant - Saville Street and Emerald Crack.
Easier and slightly bolder, still great - Ashes, Jelly Ache, Censor
The big 3 E3s at Almscliff are all brilliant and safe - Big Greeny, Wall of Horrors (might want a bouldering pad for the start) and Western Front.
Jon Stewart - on 08 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Exit at Rivelin is a great route. Like most grit E3s though, much nicer in good conditions. Dextrous Hare at Millstone's a good route, low in the grade but requires trust in small gear.

Another vote each also for Time for Tea, Ashes (easy but bold) and San Melas.

Of course you could always leave the rack at home at do Great Slab and Archangel - you never said well protected!
James Thacker - on 08 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake: "Mad Dogs" and "Arabia" on Crowden Clough Face - now thats a good route, easy E3 but great position.
In reply to James Thacker:
> "Arabia" on Crowden Clough Face - now thats a good route, easy E3 but great position.

Indeed, so easy for E3 its E2 5b in the new Beyond the Moors guide,


Chris
Adam Moroz - on 08 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake: I fell off waterloo sunset the other week, i was one move from reaching the good ledge, not a nice fall, i stopped about an inch from the floor jarred by back, ropes whipped up and smacked me in the nose and i also got a bit whiplashed. Nice climbing upto that point though :)
Adam Moroz - on 08 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Another vote for Apaloosa Sunset and Exit, both very good.
James Thacker - on 10 Aug 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: That's amusing. Think it might be a stiff E2 5b then, which every way you slice it it's still a great route.
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Bulls Crack - on 11 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Try Scoop Wall first - it's not be E3 but.....

Several at Chee Tor if dry/clean

Cake - on 12 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
Thanks for all the recommendations again. For anybody else who is interested, these are the routes in a list, with crags written for those I didn't know.

Twikker
Time for tea
Black Hawk Bastion
Adjudicator Wall, Dovedale
Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct
Absent Friends, Chee Dale
Asp
Banana Wall, Wharncliffe
Apaloosa Sunset, 5 Clouds
San Melas, Roaches Skyline
In Off (milllsom's)
Waterloo Sunset
Jumping Jack Longland
Tippler Direct
Billy whizz (E2)
Boulevard, Lawrencfield
Black Grub, Beeston
Mad Dogs and Englishmen, Chee Tor
42nd Street, Chee Tor
Saville Street (hard), Millstone
Emerald Crack (hard), Chatsworth
Ashes(bold), Stanage
Censor (bold), stanage
Big Greeny, Almscliff
Wall of Horrors, Almscliff
Western Front, Almscliff
Exit, Rivelin
Dextrous Hare, Millstone
Great Slab
Archangel
Arabia, Crowden clough Face (E2 5b)
Scoop Wall, Stoney (E2)

Does anyone know what the Jelly Ache that Boy recommended is? I couldn't find it on the database.

Cake
jonathan shepherd - on 12 Aug 2012

> Does anyone know what the Jelly Ache that Boy recommended is? I couldn't find it on the database.


I assume it's this one. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=38160
Adam Moroz - on 12 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake: Jelly Ache is on a lovely clump of Grit called Cocking Tor tucked away in the Amber Valley. Its very well protected.
Cake - on 12 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:
Oh yeah, I've been to Turning Stones; that was a nice edge. Thanks
3 Names - on 13 Aug 2012
In reply to Cake:

Impossible slab, stanage.

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