/ Recommend me a Peak E3
I have been bagging a few E2s in the last three years, such as Pearls (Chatsworth), Rack direct (Reecastle), The Sentinel (Burbage), Life During Wartime (Bamford. Really E2, not E3), Argus... the list goes on a little longer if you look at my logbook. I also cheated on Canoe by putting a side runner in.
Anyway, the other day I onsighted Telli E3 6a at Stanage, which I am pleased with, but it didn't feel like much of a step up and, though it had good climbing, it didn't give me that great feeling that I had conquered something good, (yes, it's only 10m high or so).
So, can you help me find the right E3 to aspire to soon? It may look as though I can only climb slabs, but I'm not known for my great footwork and I do have a bit of endurance (but I had no chance on the Rasp the other week!)
P.S. I live in Sheffield and I'm just about to have another child, so not too far please!
Millstone has some nice E3s, Twikker - burly at times but with good rests, Time for Tea - a giveaway if you've got the head. I think Black Hawk Bastion is a good and safe E3 breakthrough route. One of my favourite Peak E3s though is not on grit - Adjudicator Wall on the Watchblock in Dovedale.
Some well protected ones (apart from the first move of Asp):
The Asp, Stanage -- superb route.
Banana Wall, Wharncliffe -- good honest wall climbing
Apaloosa Sunset, 5 clouds, Roaches
San Melas, Roaches Skyline -- should both suit your slab style?
You'd cruise up something like Wall End Slab Super Direct or In Off/Millsom's Direct, or my first E3 was Waterloo Sunset at Gardoms - bomber cams in the break then a slabby/arete font5+ to good holds and the top.
Or for something completely different try Jumping Jack Longland, the roof finish above Auricle at Bamford, quite steady really.
tippler direct is effin awesome - and pretty easy if you are tall! Defo do that!
jet runners a doddle for E4 IMO
... and pretty soft for E3?
> ... and pretty soft for E3?
I'd give it E3, but I probably did three more moves than you. Found it easier than Boulevard.
Boulevard! I recommend that.
Are you interested in limestone as well, or just grit? If lime is good, id recommend absent friends as someone else said; some others at chee tor also look good, eg rave on and 42nd st. I tried mad dogs and englishman last week, fell off but if you like lime its not that desperate and is reasonably protected with some thought.
> I'd give it E3, but I probably did three more moves than you.
Black Grub - Beeston?
Another vote for Appaloosa Sunset (easier than San Melas, I think)
True, but I bet you guys have both got skinny fingers that actually fit in the crack!
> Are you interested in limestone as well, or just grit? If lime is good, id recommend absent friends as someone else said; some others at chee tor also look good, eg rave on and 42nd st. I tried mad dogs and englishman last week, fell off but if you like lime its not that desperate and is reasonably protected with some thought.
Mad Dogs, so good. There are some pretty amazing E3s on Limestone when you think about it.
Personally I wouldn't recommend Waterloo sunset, felt pretty serious when I did it, with deck out potential off some tricky, thin moves.
I would, however, agree with 'Mad dogs...', also felt like a tough E3, albeit a safe one. 42nd street at Chee tor is also ace, and probably not too hard, but quite runout.
I think the best suggestion so far (that I've done) is Time for tea, absolute cracker, safe as houses, and with good scare potential.
If you want Grit then The Asp is good at Stanage
Thanks all. I tried Black Hawk Bastion the other week and couldn't figure out the crux, even second go. Tippler direct does look good value, although last time I looked at it from the floor I was pretty baffled!
To the Limestone enthusiasts, I'm keen and becoming aware that at about this level, rock types are where it's at really, but I've only ever onsighted HVS or E1 on lime, although with quite a bit of sport recently.
So the Asp is a proper E3, right?
^...at this level, other rock types... that is
A couple of safe hard ones that are brilliant - Saville Street and Emerald Crack.
Easier and slightly bolder, still great - Ashes, Jelly Ache, Censor
The big 3 E3s at Almscliff are all brilliant and safe - Big Greeny, Wall of Horrors (might want a bouldering pad for the start) and Western Front.
Exit at Rivelin is a great route. Like most grit E3s though, much nicer in good conditions. Dextrous Hare at Millstone's a good route, low in the grade but requires trust in small gear.
Another vote each also for Time for Tea, Ashes (easy but bold) and San Melas.
Of course you could always leave the rack at home at do Great Slab and Archangel - you never said well protected!
Indeed, so easy for E3 its E2 5b in the new Beyond the Moors guide,
Another vote for Apaloosa Sunset and Exit, both very good.
Try Scoop Wall first - it's not be E3 but.....
Several at Chee Tor if dry/clean
Thanks for all the recommendations again. For anybody else who is interested, these are the routes in a list, with crags written for those I didn't know.
Time for tea
Black Hawk Bastion
Adjudicator Wall, Dovedale
Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct
Absent Friends, Chee Dale
Banana Wall, Wharncliffe
Apaloosa Sunset, 5 Clouds
San Melas, Roaches Skyline
In Off (milllsom's)
Jumping Jack Longland
Billy whizz (E2)
Black Grub, Beeston
Mad Dogs and Englishmen, Chee Tor
42nd Street, Chee Tor
Saville Street (hard), Millstone
Emerald Crack (hard), Chatsworth
Censor (bold), stanage
Big Greeny, Almscliff
Wall of Horrors, Almscliff
Western Front, Almscliff
Dextrous Hare, Millstone
Arabia, Crowden clough Face (E2 5b)
Scoop Wall, Stoney (E2)
Does anyone know what the Jelly Ache that Boy recommended is? I couldn't find it on the database.
I assume it's this one. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=38160
Oh yeah, I've been to Turning Stones; that was a nice edge. Thanks
Impossible slab, stanage.
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