/ Pex Hill Up Date

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A Crook on 15 Aug 2012
The Data Base for Pex Hill is undergoing a up date.

I have managed to compile the crag list from a number of sources now. Including a very old but quite comprehensive topo. written by Buzz and Pete if my memory serves correct.

The grades may be a bit different and may have changed and will no doubt change again once the new guide book is out.

Bouldering will appear once the new guide book appears. If you have any write them up but you will have to get the new guide book and refer to the hold numbers in there so I can check them out for duplicates.

Hopefully it will be out soon. Mark :)

Any other comments gratefully received

Cheers Ad
Styx - on 15 Aug 2012
Nice, nice. I still haven't been down to Pex despite it being on my doorstep, hopefully once my broken toe heals up I'll pop down.
tim000 - on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to Styx: might join you rob.
Styx - on 15 Aug 2012
That'd be good Tim, quite keen on an E1 there.
Dom Whillans on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:
aha, let the grading arguments commence ;o) Steve Boote is 5c now? etc etc
mark hounslea - on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook: guide is now complete and off to printers any day soon; hoping to have it out and have a book launch in sept
pneame on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:
Well that's all very disappointing. I take it that the corner on the left as you enter is the web? And it's only 5b? It was my one-and-only 5c back in the day.....
Much saddened

Unless someone's been chipping.....
mux - on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook: I will not comment :P

Dom Whillans on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to mux:
> (In reply to A Crook) I will not comment :P
that's cos you've not been there since the 90s ;o)

Richard Hession on 16 Aug 2012
In reply to mark hounslea:

Fantastic news!
Offwidth - on 16 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:

Maybe best to wait since the guide is being printed?
A Crook on 16 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:

Ok added a few eliminate sections. Add your little, 'oh not that hold but that one' problems there. If you need new sections just give me an email.

I have tried to keep the traverses and eliminates separate just for the old boys and purests that must top out.

Apologies to any one who may have had their logged route deleted. I did once press the wrong button. Mail me and will point you to the correct route.As usual with a venue like Pex some routes have 2 names. Will address this and put some AKA in the coming weeks
A Crook on 18 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:

Grades are now being adjusted to reflect the soon to be released guide book.

You will notice that some are graded trad and some bouldering. I have were possible but the vice a versa grade in the description for people who don't like using different currency.

I am sure some of you will disagree with some of the grades and feel free to vote other wise, but believe you me the great grade debate went on long into the night and in many pubs or so I am told during the writing stage.


Darrengold - on 18 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook: Thanks for taking the time to update Pex. I contacted the previous mod on numerous occasions with info but never received a reply!
Pekkie - on 19 Aug 2012
In reply to A Crook:

An excellent job, young man! The big problem with Pex is the rate at which the brambles and gorse take over - it needs regular clean-ups. A pair of secateurs and a pair of gardening gloves should be essential items in a climber's rack for climbing here.

Interestingly, you ask if the girdle traverse The Grand Tour has ever been done in one or is it just a climber's' urban myth. I seem to recall asking Joe Healey this question and he said that yes it had been done in one of those dry spells of legend. Just doing the clean, chalked sections now with minimum rests would still be a worthwhile achievement and provide a workout to bring the sweat to one's brow.
steveboote - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to Pekkie:

if 'signed' guidebooks for work done in later years bring value...who gets this one? M.'porkie' Hounslea or a 'Mr A Crook'?
Pekkie - on 21 Aug 2012
In reply to steveboote:

I hardly think that a signed guidebook to Pex is ever going to fetch anything.

Incidentally, guidebooks previous to the 1990's not mentioned by Mr A.Crook
(is this 'Adam' aka Dom's mate?)include, going back in time:
- Phil Davidson's guide included in the 1983 Lancashire Guide. This was an excellent effort by a Pex legend.
- Stu Thomas's (aka 'The Big Copper') guide included in Alan Rouse's 1976 Helsby guide. This has crosses against the routes rather than stars which we surmised at the time denoted fatalities rather than quality.
- When I started visiting the quarry in about 1974 I was show a scruffy sheet of paper with routes marked 1,2,3...etc. with no names.
- I have recently seen a copy of a typewritten guide produced in about 1970 by John Victory which includes Pex, Frogsmouth and other local crags.

With your Western Grit-style photo-guides you members of the present pampered generation don't know you're born.
A Crook on 22 Aug 2012
In reply to Pekkie:

Yes this is dom's mate. Took me a while to figure out that your were pete!

cheers for the guide list. looking around on ebay for em so i can just check of the list for the definitive data base. If any one has a copy they want to sell. let me know.

As to the person who has put in the effort hands down that is Mr Hounslea. All I did was correct what was here all ready, add what was not and adjust the grades (still in progress ) to reflect the new guide.

Off later today to take a picture of lady jane wall so bouldering can go up.

For Pisa wall you are going to have to buy the new guide I am afraid in order to get the hold numbers for the problems. (some shameless effort to promote sales)

Ta for now Ad

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