/ Training for mountaineering

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Avinash1 - on 31 Aug 2012
Sorry if this has been discussed before

Just back from my first trip to the Karakoram and I need to get stronger and fitter.

Usually, my fitness regime is cycling, occasional runs, and hiking with a full pack on and swimming. As well as visits to indoor climbing gym.

But my friends were stronger and faster.

Any tips on training? I.e what weights to lift? or is it the case of just more hiking with a pack on? And going harder than ever?

Cheers

Avi
Jon Wickham - on 31 Aug 2012
GreeenMachine - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:

Check out http://mountainathlete.com/

Their online store has quite a few training programs that cater for mountaineers.

A review of there 'work' can be found in Alpinist online:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-mountain-athlete-training

Good luck
bobbybin - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb: Why were your friends stronger and faster? Think that's a good place to start. Ur post is a bit vague.
Talius Brute - on 01 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:

Lose as much weight as possible and get some serious long day training done. Try the Mark Twight way:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/96202320/eBook-Mountaineering-Climbing-Mark-Twight-Extreme-Alpinism-COSMIC


Avinash1 - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:

Thanks. Lost 7 kgs over last month in Pakistan, so all good.

One friend is a guide and both had just come off broad peak as well as one of them off lhotse. Still though, I could hardly break trail or carry more than my personal gear which annoyed me
AlisonSmiles - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to GreeenMachine:

That was a bit of an eye opener. Wow.
ayuplass - on 02 Sep 2012
AndyC - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:

Avi! You were doing OK... no way you could compete with B & G, with them coming straight off Broadpeak, fully acclimatised to 7000+ m. Don't let it get to you.

Considering the snow conditions, you did really well to get to 6600m. Next time your confidence will be higher... which will help to take you higher.

Andy

PS - did you manage to fly out of Skardu?
almost sane - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:

From the detail you have supplied, I suspect the answer is that your friends were better acclimatised: to the altitude, to the different time zone, to the different diet, different way of life...
Avinash1 - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to AndyC:

Andy how are you? Good to hear from you,

I have links to photos etc if you email me

aujayeb@doctors.net.uk

And we did fly. Did you?
AndyC - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:
> (In reply to AndyC)
>
> And we did fly. Did you?

B*****d! We didn't want to risk missing flights from ISB so we suffered 48 hours on the KKH. Got held up for 12 long hours just before Chilas due to a mud slide blocking the road.

Will send you a mail!

ads.ukclimbing.com
Will_he_fall - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to aujayeb:

Some interesting musings about alpine training from Steve House on his training bog:

http://www.stevehouse.net/SteveHouse.net/Training_Blog/Training_Blog.html

It looks like he's writing a book called 'training for alpine climbing' which should be a good read if 'beyond the mountain' is anything to go by.

Whatever training info I read for alpine climbing the truth of it always seems to boil down to needing to train long and hard, and for me staying motivated for all the hard work always seems to be the crux of the matter.

Will

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