/ Dawsey he taught me body positioning and coordination!!!!

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Mountain Spirit - on 25 Sep 2012
Hi.

Johnny Dawes is amazing!!!!

I had a coaching session with him at The Castle where he taught me body positioning, coordination and balance!!!!

Through Johnny I learnt a lot including holding holds properly and finding the right stance for you!!!!

Today at The Castle I went from V0- to V1-V3 and attempted a V4 traverse using what him and Gaz Parry told me (movement)!!!!

Is V1-V3 somewhere between an Uk tech 6a and 6c????

Bye

Savvas
CurlyStevo - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
"V1-V3 somewhere between an Uk tech 6a and 6c"
no
CurlyStevo - on 25 Sep 2012
Mountain Spirit - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks for thar Curly!!!!

It is a bit different to what is at The Castle!!!!

ERH - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

This just shows how mucked up the trad tech grade really is.
alooker - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: I was wondering when you were going to post about this again! Congrats on the good session and continued enthusiasm, but comparing grades is a fools errand, indoor bouldering to english tech doesn't have a handy conversion as they are different things...
Mountain Spirit - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to ERH:

Hola

According to belclimb a V1 is F6c (safe E3) and a V3 is a 7b
(E5 safe).

I never knew I was that good

:-)
Mountain Spirit - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to alooker:

Hola.

I had a long rest to recuperate and just tried what Dawsey and Gaz told to do!!!!

It is stupid to compare the two!!!!
I like climbing - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Johnny Dawes was bouldering at the Castle recently wearing hush puppies ! So great....
permanenttrauma - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to I like climbing: Gaz is a legend. I probably wouldn't be the climber I am today without his help.
CurlyStevo - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to ERH)
>
> Hola
>
> According to belclimb a V1 is F6c (safe E3) and a V3 is a 7b
> (E5 safe).
>
> I never knew I was that good
>
> :-)
thats plane wrong!
CurlyStevo - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: its not stupid to compare the two for short boulder problems. at the lower end of the grades there is often a very close correlation betweek uk hardest move and v grade. comparing v grades and sport grades accross different lengths and styles of problem and sport climb is crazy though. A V1 problem near the ground with a short easy climb after could be F5+ but lots of V1 problems one after the other with no rests on a long overhang maybe F6b+ or more.

btw the castle web site grade table is pretty much the same as the other one

http://www.castle-climbing.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=58
mrchewy - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: There's a slab boulder problem at Pinnacle that's been graded V0 (5c). That's English 5c. There's one that's just V0 with no English tech reference and that's about a 4b. Having managed a couple of V2s and being not far off one V3 - I know I'm still nowhere near being a 5c climber outside, easy 5b is about my comfy limit when seconding.

Managed a V4 traverse at Mile End once - I now ignore grades when I can.
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to permanenttrauma:

Hi.

Gaz told me a lot and I am very grateful and thankful to him!!!!

He is such a genuine person!!!!
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hiya.

I was doing long traverses as Dawsey told me to do ones that I can just about do the moves!!!!

I also did them pumped!!!!
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

Hiya.

I think a lot of people have given up on grades altogether!!!!

I am just happy that I have improved!!!!
earlsdonwhu - on 26 Sep 2012
> Johnny Dawes was bouldering at the Castle recently wearing hush puppies ! So great....

It might show off his climbing prowess, but I am not so sure about his taste in footwear!

permanenttrauma - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
>
> He is such a genuine person!!!!

He's probably the nicest person in the world. Over here we refer to him in the same manner as Ace Rimmer, "What a guy!"
RockSteady on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sounds like you had a great coaching experience.

For what it's worth, I often think of sport climbs (my main area of experience) by the difficulty of boulder grade in their crux.

I think if you can boulder V3, you can do the crux on a F7a, or on a pumpy F7a+ (i.e. this will have quite a lot of V3 moves).

If you can boulder V4, you can do the crux on a lot of F7bs.

This just comes from my experience - until recently I'd not bouldered consistently harder than V3 but nevertheless ticked quite a lot of F7as.

For trad it feels to me that onsighting V2-V3 (outdoors) feels about English 6a.
Ramblin dave - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
> btw the castle web site grade table is pretty much the same as the other one
>
> http://www.castle-climbing.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=58

Although it's unusual that the Castle actually use the V grading system properly (so V0 is approximately UK 5a) rather than doing what most climbing walls do and deciding to use V grades even though they're fairly useless for beginner stuff and then having to distort the lower grades so beginners can climb V0 rather than VB-- or whatever...
mrchewy - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Ramblin dave: We have no VB or V0- or + at Pinnacle. It's just V0 and Alex often puts an English tech grade next to it, to give some idea of what to expect. It does help. Last night was the first time I'd seen a 5c next to V0, he's explained to me that ideally 5a/b would be V0.
If you've been bouldering at other walls where they don't grade properly at V0, expect a bit of a shock!
victim of mathematics - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to RockSteady:

V3 ~ English 6a ~ font6a

Ish.
i.munro - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Shouldn't that be V0 is anything from 1a to approximately 5a ?
3 Names - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi mate

You should be aware here, that bouldering V3 / english 6a / f6a etc...

Is still very far from being able to lead trad E4 6a
biscuit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/

I still think this is the best stab anyone has had at making sense of it all but there are always anomalies that don't fit.

Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

Hi.

You need to learn how to place protection, use a guide book etc and I think Plas Y Brenin is a great place to learn those things.

I think Route selection is more important than grades.

Bye

Savvas
SteveSBlake - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

If you think these two are good coaches, you really should get in touch with a bloke called Ron Burgundy, he's tryuely amazing!!!!! worth even six!!!!!!

Google him you'll find out loads about him - the original rock warrior and no slouch on the Jazz flute!!!!!!

Steve
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

Hi mate.

Maybe I cab toprope say Russerection or Great Wall after someone has lead them - then try leading them!!!!

Wow I used to be able to do Font 4+ as my highest font grade now it seems to be Font 6a!!!!

Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hi CS.

This the the table from BelClimb

http://en.belclimb.be/article-details.asp?artID=613&sid=14


3 Names - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

No! No!!! NO!!!!!
ads.ukclimbing.com
alooker - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: you're kidding, right? The scary thing is that I don't think you are, if you're the same Savvas that posts on Johnny's facebook wall etc...
deacondeacon - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Savvas it's really important that you listen to what others are trying to tell you with regards to the grading tables. Comparisons are pretty much useless. They will give you a vague idea of what to expect in difficulty if you were top-roping the route. When you're leading on self-placed gear there are many more variables that need to be taken into consideration, with much higher consequences.

why are you not on facebook anymore?

Deacon
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to deacondeacon:

Hey Deacon.

I don't really do grades anymore and I aam just happy that I am improving!!!!

I know leading is a lot more scarier!!!!

I don't think I will be doing any outdoor climbing till next year!!!!

Just indoor stuff and first aid course and hillwalking skills!!!!

I left facebook because it was getting a bit too much!!!!

I will be back on it as I have stuff from comps and lectures etcx to put on it!!!!

Bye

Savvas
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to alooker:

Yep.

Jokin

No outdoor stuff just indoor leadibg!
In reply to Mountain Spirit: You will soon need a new ! button and a new ? button on your computer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

No outdoor stuff this year neway apart from walking and first aid!!!!
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Submit to Gravity:

I'm usin my blackberry!!

As I'm on the move a lot!
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to alooker:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) you're kidding, right? The scary thing is that I don't think you are, if you're the same Savvas that posts on Johnny's facebook wall etc...

The same 1!
jkarran - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> According to belclimb a V1 is F6c (safe E3) and a V3 is a 7b
> (E5 safe).

Hmm... Some E3s are F6c. Some F6cs have no sequence harder than V1 but there'd be a lot of it and little respite. Likewise for F7b and V3 though you'd likely get a bit more rest between hard V3 sections. Safe E3 generally involves harder sections than V1. Safe E5 could be F7b.

> I never knew I was that good

V3 skills will get you up mid-high F7s with a fair bit of cherry picking, fitness and work.

jk
Mountain Spirit - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to deacondeacon:

I want to climb F7s....

Do you think I should get a beastmaker?
bouldery bits - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to deacondeacon)
>
> I want to climb F7s....
>
> Do you think I should get a beastmaker?

Probably not!
johncoxmysteriously - on 26 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to deacondeacon)
>
> I want to climb F7s....
>
> Do you think I should get a beastmaker?

Assuming you live in London, I'd say it was more important to get a car.

jcm
alooker - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: hehe!
Mountain Spirit - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to bouldery bits:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
> [...]
>
> Probably not!

Hi bouldery bits.

Don't I need to build great finger strength for it!?

I was told on another post that if I was to climb French 7s I will need to ingerboards and take energy gels!

Bye

MS
Mountain Spirit - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
> [...]
>
> Assuming you live in London, I'd say it was more important to get a car.
>
> jcm

Hiya.

Did you go to Stanley Tech?

I cannot drive due to my coordination problem thefore I have a freedom pass!

Bye

Savvas
deacondeacon - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: No worries mate, sounds like you're getting to climb lots. I'm sure you'll see improvement with so much climbing. Take it easy.
Deacon
Mountain Spirit - on 27 Sep 2012
In reply to deacondeacon:

Hey Deac.

Yes I am climbing lots dude!

Soon I will be better than MDizzle (Marcus)!

Heading to White Spider tomorrow for traversing!

I read climb and Summit magazines to!

Bye

Sav

:-)
Mountain Spirit - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) its not stupid to compare the two for short boulder problems. at the lower end of the grades there is often a very close correlation betweek uk hardest move and v grade. comparing v grades and sport grades accross different lengths and styles of problem and sport climb is crazy though. A V1 problem near the ground with a short easy climb after could be F5+ but lots of V1 problems one after the other with no rests on a long overhang maybe F6b+ or more.
>
> btw the castle web site grade table is pretty much the same as the other one
>
> http://www.castle-climbing.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=58

Hey CS.

My traverses are long and winding with some over hanging sections with dynamic moves like rockovers and dynos!

Bye

Savvas
Ianto Bach - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Left to right or right to left? Or do you go both ways?

I
nicboarder - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Is this thread for real? Jesus wept
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to nicboarder:

yes 4 real nic!

grades r fickle!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Ianto Bach:

both ways sometines!
Steve John B - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Ianto Bach:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
>
> Left to right or right to left? Or do you go both ways?
>
> I

pmsl
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Steve John B:
hahaha
Parrys_apprentice - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

This thread is either a climber's version of the turing test or a cult.
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Parrys_apprentice:

Hi

what is the turing test?
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Hi Mountain,
Turing is something I am interested in too, where can we find out more?
Stevo
ericinbristol - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Parrys_apprentice:

Smartest thing anyone has ever posted re the slightly bizarre MS
Parrys_apprentice - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Parrys_apprentice)
>
> Hi
>
> what is the turing test?

that is exactly the response I predicted, hence you fail.
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

The internet I think is the best source of info!
alooker - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit: you had me going for quite a while. Now get back under that bridge.
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

I am not a troll!

I am real!
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo)
>
> The internet I think is the best source of info!

Better than what?

Grumble - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: i have met him and he is for real!!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Grumble:

who r u?

where did we meet?
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

what other sources do u know?
Goucho on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Parrys_apprentice: I can't tell whether MS is for real, or whether it's a wonderful troll wind-up being executed at the expense of an awful lot of UKC folk - if it is, it's a classic!!!

However, if he's for real, then I really do want a list of where he's going to be climbing outdoors next year, because it's definitely going to be worth packing a soft chair and a cool box full of beer, and driving back over to the UK to watch him :-)
3 Names - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to All

Hi Guys

The OP is NOT a troll and he is very genuine. It might be a nice idea to use a little consideration in replying to him.

All the best Vince
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Goucho:

My fave place to climb so far is North Wales - Llanberis and Cloggy are the areas in N. Wales I want to climb the most!

Scotland joint in at a close second with The South West!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:

Namaste my friend.

I am 100% genuine!

thanks for your help and advice!
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Parrys_apprentice:

just looked it up

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turing_test
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to SteveSBlake:

Hi.

I have googled him and all I get is something about the famous Anchorman!

Have you spelt his name right?
JH74 - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You must be on drugs man. Really.
Mountain Spirit - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to JH74:

Y say I'm on drugs!

I don't even smoke fags and drink booze!
deacondeacon - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to all: Savvas is one of the keenest climbers I have ever met, and is constantly improving his game, training at most of the walls in London, ice climbing in Ellis Brigham and going to every lecture he can get to. Seriously, he comes on here excited about a lesson he's had and you guys just give him a hard time.
Give the guy a break.
Mountain Spirit - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to deacondeacon:

Thanks Deacon.

U r a true friend!

Saw Bee at The Castle on Fri!
alooker - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to deacondeacon: it's great he has a true passion for it, and all the best Savvas. Be careful though please, you do seem rather ambitious, for many experienced trad climbers/sport climbers/alpinists these would be life long goals, remember there are classics at every grade and it would be a shame for you to miss out!
JH74 - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to JH74)
>
> Y say I'm on drugs!


Because you seem like you're on drugs.
M0nkey - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Best poster since DJViper, whether he's a Troll or not.
Mountain Spirit - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Well this year it is just indoor climbing I think!
Mountain Spirit - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to JH74:

Doesnt each drug have its own effects and they each affect people in a different way?
MattDTC on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

This is a great thread!!!!!

Please start some more!!!

Congratulations!!??
John W - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Well yours seems to have affected your ability to use a f*cking keyboard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mountain Spirit - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to John W:

I'm not on nethin!


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