/ Climbing Trango Towers

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Nadir khan - on 03 Oct 2012
Please excuse me if the following all sounds unbelievably naive but I'm thinking of heading out to Trango next year or 2014 to climb/ photograph and film . what are my best options for getting the best info , not getting ripped off by tour operators etc . is there a rockfax guide ( kidding ) or any sort of guidebook with topos etc ? I've looked on summitt post but there's no route info or grades etc . Any help appreciated
Damo on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:

Climbing - depends if you're talking about Great Trango or Nameless Trango. The former has the huge walls and some big ridges (Azeem etc) and the latter is the more slender tower that most people thing of when you say 'Trango'. The former has a relatively straightforward snow and mixed route up the back, the latter has no easy route and is technical big walls (Eternal Flame etc) all around. If you want good shots of the main Trangos themselves, you may just be better off scrambling up some of the lesser peaks nearby, though in this area lots of the approaches and scrambling can be pretty serious.

Logistics - any of the main operators like jasminetours,com, atp.pk.com, nazirsabir.com etc can organise it for you. The Baltoro is technically a restricted zone so you need a registered guide for the trek, but you'd need one anyway.

If you can find them online, the DVDs 'Baseclimb' and the sequel 'Baseclimb II" give lots of footage of the Trangos, as part of the basejumps. They used the 'normal' route to get up the backside of Great Trango, so there's some climbing footage of that.

There was also a Mountain Profile of Nameless Tower in one of the earlier issues of Alpinist magazine. Also check out the archives of INFO at: http://www.climbmagazine.com//mountain-info and back issues of the AAJ at: http://americanalpineclub.org/site/aajsearch
Damo on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:
> ...I've looked on summitt post but there's no route info or grades etc . Any help appreciated

Grades and tech info will be the least of your worries if you're asking this question here. When Amical.de guided it they were saying it was UIAA V and 5.6 with 40 degree snow and ice.
Nadir khan - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to Damo: Thanks Damo , will check out the links . It was Nameless tower we have our eye on so will dig around and try and get some info on routes up this but I 'm assuming that they're all hard++
Al Evans on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan: This may be of interest if itworks, it was sent me by Leo Dickenson.
http://www.vimeo.com/50029357
Tom F Harding on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Evans:

Thanks for that.. A preview of climbing films in the future?
Nadir khan - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Evans: Thats great footage , and if it was edited into a film gives an amazing perspective , not sure how it wold cope if it got windy though
L.A. on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan: If you have a video player then I have Basejump on DVD somewhere at home if you want to borrow it
Big Lee - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:

I remember seeing a really good topo of the Trango routes in MountainINFO - maybe around 4 years ago. You could try emailing CLIMB magazine and see if they know which issue you need to order.
Nadir khan - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to Big Lee: Thanks , will give them a try
I like climbing - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:
I would definitely try and meet at least a couple of people who have gone there to do the same thing as well as getting hold of the most up to date guide info. There are a few well known people with websites who have been there so try and contact them. Good luck ! I want to go there one day.....
alpinebisou - on 06 Oct 2012
wilkie14c - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:
Nowt useful to add but I just wanted to say how much I love the header picture on your blog, the reds are stunning!
Damo on 07 Oct 2012
rockers - on 07 Oct 2012
there are many operators in Pakistan offering services, shop around and you will get better prices and services.
Nadir khan - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan: Thanks for all the info , for the last 20 years I've thought of heading to Trango Towers . My ancestry is from the NW frontier of Pakistan /Afghanistan so its a little bit of a pilgrimage to the home of my ancestors if that doesn't sound too pretentious ? planning it for 2014
Nadir khan - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to alpinebisou: Great , that was exactly what I was looking for , now to start saving some pennies !
alpinebisou - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:
haven't climbed there but spent a fair bit of time in the area. so let me know if you have other questions. it was a while ago though. you can organise yourself from skardu but a lot of hassle and probably not much if any savings over an operator. also there are various levels of service - for example, you could ask a company to do permit, cook/guide and jeeps and do the rest yourself (supplies, porters etc).

really amazing people and culture, as well as scenery. some pics here that will give you an idea of the immediate area. also some less full on climbing objectives and plenty of adventurous trekking in that area. would definitely recommend, especially if you have heritage there. might be worth going and getting the lay of the land before you commit to a single objective expedition though. depends how much time/money you have.

have wanted to go back on a climbing trip myself ever since i was there in 2000/2001.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fibonaccimoose/sets/72157627281842149/
alpinebisou - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Nadir khan:

just to add. not sure what your climbing cv looks like (so, sorry if patronising) but you would need a good foundation in big wall climbing as well as alpine climbing for any chance of success. except possibly the easiest route up Great Trango. had similar dreams myself.
Nadir khan - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to alpinebisou: great shots, thanks for sharing those . My big wall experience is zero , though I've done a fair few biggish rock routes in the alps . hoping to crank some time next year in prep for trango

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