/ Tower ridge

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dbell67 - on 03 Oct 2012
Anyone done Tower ridge this week ? If so what conditions like? Thinking of heading up there this weekend. What gear will we most likely need ?
AlH - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to dbell67: http://guysteven.blogspot.co.uk from yesterday. Al
dbell67 - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to AlH: Thanks Guy how much snow would we need winter gear?
Jamie B - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to dbell67:

Yesterday on the Tourist Track there was light snow cover from approx 1150m, but no sign of a freezing level. I'd speculate that there would have been enough to make the upper part of Tower Ridge awkward, but probably not enough to require crampons. If the temperature drops a little that may change however, and it's really quite hard with light cover and frosted rock.
AlH - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to dbell67: I'm not Guy, he's just a mate. But the frost this morning would have made the route tricky until it thawed today. Guy described them slipping bambi like on damp rock. This can be the toughest time of year if you get wet snow and a little freeze/ powder and verglas (not quite conditions for the latter yet). Much more tenuous than good winter conditions.
Like Jamie said, crampons probably not much use but expect it to feel very slidey.
Tiernan - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to dbell67:

I was on the ridge today and as Alan and Jamie warned, the route was extremely slippy throughout so care should be taken. There was quite an amount of snow from the Little Tower onwards, this makes many of the moves more difficult and some of the jugs will be hidden under the snow. I wouldn't say it warrants a use of an axe yet, but keep checking the forecasts.

Also a few pictures on my blog if you'd like to see how it was:
http://jordan-tiernan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/a-snowy-tower-ridge.html
AdCo82 on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to Tiernan:

When I'm full winter nick does Tower Ridge need two axes or just the one?
AdCo82 on 05 Oct 2012
in* apologies
Tiernan - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

You would be best off with two axes, the ridge in full winter conditions has some short ice pitches that would require the use of climbing tools. I've not done the ridge in winter myself but I'm sure it comes in at a IV 3 which for me would suggest the use of two axes.

Jordan
Jamie B - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Tiernan:

> I've not done the ridge in winter myself but I'm sure it comes in at a IV 3 which for me would suggest the use of two axes.

It would on most routes, but Tower Ridge is a little different. No real ice or front-pointing as such, but quite a lot of ground where you want to use handholds, or easier terrain where a second axe just gets in the way.

Good style would be to do the whole thing with a single axe, but it might be worth carrying (maybe on a holster or large caritool) a second for a couple of steps, particularly the steep section after the fallen-block chimney. I'd go leashless too, as you want to be able to swop the tool from hand to hand.

Kimberley on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Tiernan:

aye and when you've come up from the
Midlands and a are a student at Lochaber College you would believe that!

Quote:

You would be best off with two axes, the ridge in full winter conditions has some short ice pitches that would require the use of climbing tools. I've not done the ridge in winter myself but I'm sure it comes in at a IV 3 which for me would suggest the use of two axes.

I would prefer the evidence of those who live locally and have done for many seasons.

October rarely gives full winter conditions and on the numerous occasions I have guided the route one axe is not only adequate but also preferable as Jamie has suggested.

Maybe an informed comment when you have actually done the route would be more appropriate ):
Tiernan - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Kimberley:

An Triubhas asked me a question, I simply replied whilst stating quite clearly that I have not been on the ridge itself during the winter season and making mearly an assumption of what I thought would be the reasonable equipment for a climb of that grade (he did ask FULL winter nick, not early October nick)

Of course I will give more informed opinions when I have done the route in winter, till then, I will keep my mouth tightly shut in fear of causing any offence :)
Jamie B - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Tiernan:

You'll never keep all of UKC happy, I wouldn't even bother trying. Even if you announced a cure for cancer someone would pop up and flame you.

Good to see the recovery underway!
CurlyStevo - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to Tiernan)
>
> [...]
>
> It would on most routes, but Tower Ridge is a little different. No real ice or front-pointing as such, but quite a lot of ground where you want to use handholds, or easier terrain where a second axe just gets in the way.
>
> Good style would be to do the whole thing with a single axe, but it might be worth carrying (maybe on a holster or large caritool) a second for a couple of steps, particularly the steep section after the fallen-block chimney. I'd go leashless too, as you want to be able to swop the tool from hand to hand.

when i did tower ridge there was atleast one ice step where two axes were usefull. Also the crux step down two axes were handy as the snow placements werent very good.
Only a hill - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to dbell67:
At this time of year nailed boots are best.

(Only half joking! ;-) )
Michael Gordon - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

Definitely take 2 axes for Tower Ridge in full winter conditions. You'll almost certainly be glad you did - in the unlikely event you're not you can always strap it back on your pack.

(not a local but have done the route!)
Cameron94 on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to dbell67: I forgot you had to be local to offer good reliable information on a route...
Hope you havea good time if you go for it!
AdCo82 on 16 Oct 2012
Anyone got an up to date blog or report for Tower Ridge?
Jamie B - on 16 Oct 2012
AdCo82 on 02 Nov 2012
Does a detailed topo exist for Tower Ridge?
Only a hill - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:
You don't really need one to be fair.
creag - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to dbell67:
Here is a nice little 'story' by Roger Wild which was aimed to giver an insight to a typical winter ascent of tower ridge
http://www.mcofs.org.uk/jack-jill-climb-tower-ridge.asp

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