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Topic - Need help with endurance training

Stone_donkey - on 04 Oct 2012
I've read bits on ARC, IRC(?), AeroCap, AnCap and am getting more confused by the hour. Currently onsighting ~6a, redpointing/TRing no harder than 6b+ and looking for a first foray into periodised training. Planning 1 month endurance then 1 month speed/power and alternating thereon in. No definite timeframe or fixed goals, other than to improve to higher 6's. Only have access to a poor bouldering wall so all training will need to be on a lead/ TR wall (but understand this may be more of an issue when it comes to the strength/power phase than the endurance one, so I'll come back here and ask about that in a month's time).
Has anyone got some suggestions for endurance training - it's not clear to me whether I should be working towards lots of mileage on routes that give some 'effort' but no pump (I think this is the basis of ARC), or whether I should be working laps on harder routes to get a pump and keep climbing through it, or both. If both, on the same night or dofferent sessions? Any words of wisdom from the training experts out there?
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