/ Bolted routes near Dewerstone?

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andrewere - on 04 Oct 2012
I'm travelling down to Dartmoor with a group at the weekend and there might now be more sport climbers (inexperienced trad climbers with no trad gear) than trad leaders. We are camping near Dewerstone so I'd like to know if there are any bolted routes nearby so that we can have a plan B.

Many thanks.
nealh - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere:Best bet for sports climbing inland in the south hams would be Torbryn quarry, otherwise its off to Ansteys where things get a bit tougher and steeper enjoy
Phil79 - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere:

If you head in the other direction (Cornwall) there are some bolted routes at Cheesewring Quarry.

Note that theres not much easy sport at any of these venues, one 5+ and few 6a's at Ansteys, likewise a few 6a+ at Cheesewring, most of the routes are in the 7's.
Iain Peters - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere:
Or you could try Sheepstor. Short trad routes, nice spread of grades up to VS/HVS and a good pub nearby. Forecast is OK for Saturday.
GrahamD - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere:

If you lot are anything like us, one persons trad rack can happily be split into two perfectly adequate racks. Where nicer to get the experience ?
In reply to andrewere:

I would suggest the Dewerstone is one of the best crags in the UK for learning trad, the rock is great the setting is magical and many of the routes, even the easy ones, are great offering multipitch fun on lovely granite.

That or go clip bolts in a quarry???


Chris
hms - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere: Torbryan quarry, although it has some truly great routes, also has very bad seepage if there has been lots of rain. Do wonder how much would be climeable anyway on Saturday, given what's come down recently!
mkean - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I would suggest the Dewerstone is one of the best crags in the UK for learning trad, the rock is great the setting is magical and the squirrels are evil.

Fixed that for you.
fire_munki on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to mkean:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> I would suggest the Dewerstone is one of the best crags in the UK for learning trad, the rock is great the setting is magical and the squirrels are evil.
>
> Fixed that for you.

Much better, they are a seperate breed there!
Cheese Monkey - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere: There is one bolt on Central groove....

Watch out for the wildlife, they will be in your bag the second you step off the ground. Don't bother with Torbryan, its rubbish compared to Dewerstone imo. Might see you there Sunday
andrewere - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere: Thanks for your replies everyone. I'm driving down from Salisbury tomorrow morning. Never been to Dartmoor before so even if it's too wet for climbing I'm sure I'll enjoy trekking over the moor! We're staying at Langstone Manor near Tavistock and having seen the forecast I'm glad I ditched the tent in favour of one of their pods (posh heated shed)! A.
Motown - on 04 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere: Mostly supporting other comments - unless you climb in 7s sport climbing is not great in Devon. The suggestion for Sheepstor is good as the routes are good, but short so you can share out the rack and the Dewerstone offers great lower grade trad.

Some great walking to be had around Princetown and Merrivale, but perhaps some bouldering at Combeshead Tor, near Burrator. A bit of a walk but great rocks and a great setting.

If it's dry...
Phil79 - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to andrewere:

Langstone is a very nice spot (I live a few miles away). If the weather is crap a walk from there directly onto the moor is easy, you could go up to Pew Tor (a few good boulder problems if dry), across to Vixen Tor (off limits so you'll have to make do looking over the wall) up to Staple Tor, Great Mis Tor or Princetown from there. The Dartmoor Inn at Merrivale is good for a mid walk pint. Good walking around Burrator Reservoir as well.

Some very good bouldering around Burrator such as Cuckoo Rock/Comeshead and Lakeside (Lakeside will likely be wet as its under tree cover, the others dry fairly quick but seepage can be a problem). Easy trad at Dewerstone and Sheeps Tor and some classic routes. Sheeps Tor is quicker drying but higher up so can be windy and in the cloud when the weather's rubbish. Also Bench Tor towards Hexworthy, and more bouldering and routes towards Widecombe and Hay Tor (i.e. Hay Tor, Hound Tor, Bonehill, etc).

Good pubs - Peter Tavy Inn, Elephants Nest at Horndon, Plume of Feathers at Princetown, Royal Oak at Meavy, Rugglestone Inn at Widecombe. Tavistock is a nice market town for lunch or a wander round if the weather is really crap.

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