/ NEWS: Ondra makes FA of Change, 9b+!
I don't have any details yet, and I will update this post as I get them, but...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67488
Jeepers! looks amazing...
Wow, awesome news, congrats Adam! Looking forward to hearing more about the ascent.
I love his final comment in the video: 'I need to get a bit stronger'.
July: Gotta get stronger
September: Gotta get stronger (as reported on FB)
Presumably a few days ago: Fcuk this, let's come back in late October
Today: Ooops, NAILED IT
IMHO, he's been the embodiement of true progression in sport climbing since his 2 day repeat of La Rambla years ago. His ticklist through the years is so transparent and complete it's mind boggling.
Great; look forward to the video etc.
Spread on how long it will be before a repeat, anyone?
Superb idea. Only I don't think my memory is up to the task of remembering when it finally comes round to collecting my winnings.
Brilliant news, Well done Adam, History made
9b, Akira, France, Fred Rouhling, 1995, Unrepeated.
Is this really news?
Oh yes! ;)
Ah but is he having the MOST fun? Sharma was pretty miserable whilst working FRFM but seems to have perked up a bit since. I always think that Dave Graham seems to have a lot of fun in the vids & Daniel Wood's "psyche" is like an excited puppy....
The wide boyz definitely have a good crack......
> Ah but is he having the MOST fun?
I think he wasn't when he first attempted the project, but since then he's been intensively training to improve his belayer-banter.
(Amazing news by the way - that route looks insane!)
It's nice to see such a route on rock other than limestone. Stunning effort. wonder when the Reel Rock guys will devote some time to Adam?
> I always think that Dave Graham seems to have a lot of fun in the vids & Daniel Wood's "psyche" is like an excited puppy....
Yes, irritating isn't it. If they put a bit less energy into unnecessary jollity and concentrated on the climbing, they might be able to pull a bit harder.
> ... wonder when the Reel Rock guys will devote some time to Adam?
Erm, they have. The first film in this years reel is 'La Dura Dura', with him and Sharma.
Climbing at that level must require a mental effort which is probably impossible to explain or measure. God knows what the average 7a climber could redpoint or onsight if he/she had the "head" of an Ondra at his limit. But because of the impossibility to conceive of that level of focus, I am happy to cut all the slack in the world to top climbers.
I'm sure Adam has loads of fun when climbing in the 8 French grade...
I saw him for a day when he came to Malham. I've never seen focus like it. Not my idea of a good day out cragging for sure. However he must enjoy some aspects of it or else he wouldn't still be motivated enough to put all the effort in that it must take.
Balls. I was far more impressed with the FA of "The Midas Touch". That man had vision (albeit not 20:20).
Ben Nevis has been climbed without oxygen? Bloody Hell!! I'm going to have to get in to training :-)
I think one of the "problems" in watching someone like Adam Ondra climbing is that even at his limit he's so good it's not obvious just how hard the climbing is until he falls. It looks like these massive caves/grottes (or whatever the correct geographical term for them is) are the future of hard sport climbing and it's going to take us, the audience, a while to figure out all the angles of what's being climbed.
Not sure where that audience of RR is from. I have lived in countries where kids normally leave home at age 17. On the other hand, I can't remember many of these kids being able to speak 4 languages, to cook a meal that didn't make you think they were savages and to understand the importance of not picking your nose in public.
I've got tonnes of respect for Adam and his family. Despite his obvious and nearly infinite talent for climbing, they wanted him to finish school like any other normal person. Apparently he wants to go to uni too next year...
I think Sharma did Realisation around the same age he is now maybe a bit older. That was the first 9a+ and in his climbing career thus far he has been able to take it to upper 9b so who knows, I think Ondra can still climb a lot harder yet.
Sorry, undocumented and downgraded by Ondra himself in any case.
Catch Adam Ondra in Durra Durra with the London screening of Reel Rock 26 November. The first London screening sold out so this new London screening has been added!
Monday 26 November, Central London. Visit http://reelrock.co.uk for tickets.
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