/ Avon gorge climbing vid

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sjt_2010 on 05 Oct 2012 - cpc1-hawk10-0-0-cust830.aztw.cable.virginmedia.com
Hi guys, I'm trying to put a climbing video together and looking at locations at the moment. Ideally I'd like to shoot in Avon gorge as its pretty iconic. However I've not climbed there myself just yet, I'll be doing a proper recce soon to have a proper look.

I just thought I'd get as much info on the area as possible before I do this, so if anyones got experience climbing there and has suggestions on routes, access, kit etc it would be greatly appreciated! I didn't want to choose routes that were really high grades as the climbers will have to do the route a couple of times to get the necessary footage. Cheers guys, looking forward to some feedback.
Stone Muppet - on 05 Oct 2012
If you want iconic in terms of filming you're best off near the bridge. Any of the HVSs/E1s under the bridge, filmed from a distance with a big telephoto will give you opportunity to frame a shot under the bridge. However you're not allowed to top out onto or abseil off the bridge, so you'll have to climb the routes yourself if you want to film somebody on them close up. Suspense, Suspension Bridge Arete, Limbo and Baby Duck go almost right under the abseil anchor (35m-ish abseil) for the buttress which might make your life easier. If you want something harder then GT Special (E3/4?) is just off to the side.

Alternatively have a look at Giant's Cave Buttress (VS) which is the next thing seawards from the bridge. Again opportunity to have the bridge in plenty of your shots, plus belaying from a tourist telescope at the top adds to the Clifton ambience. Or you could do In through the Out Door VS or Dream of Brown Trousers E2 which both start with a belay on the railed off cave complete with tourists looking out scared from the inside. These routes are approached by a ~25m abseil from the top of the cliff.

There that's my 2p on fun locations for filming. Now you need to find someone willing to pose, try the bristol student club maybe?
Kemics - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to sjt_2010:

I'd shoot everything on the ramp. Easy access (for rigging), the rock is an amazing orange/texture and it's easy to frame a shot so you'd get the climber in the left hand side and the full view down the gorge with the suspension bridge in the background. Plus the gear is bomber so you can get some good shots of people falling/pushing themselves :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8HMD3o5B2A - check out the 1 min 58 mark in this vid
Stone Muppet - on 05 Oct 2012
I was kinda thinking of the ramp as well, didn't realise you could see the bridge from there though - bonus.
Stone Muppet - on 05 Oct 2012
Saying that here's a shot of the giant's cave
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Avon_gorge_and_cave_arp.jpg
Kemics - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to Stone Muppet:

Yeah giant cave buttress is a good shout. You cant see too much from the cave but I think you capture the crux move (which is the coolest bit) so definitely worth a look.
Stanners - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to sjt_2010:
Im planning on pushing myself on the ramp soon on some E3/E4's. Likely to take some big whippers, power screams the lot! Should be good footage! What camera are you going to use?
Dave 88 - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to sjt_2010:

On suspension bridge buttress there's a bit of a ledge system with good belays at the top of hells gate/ middle of heironymous etc. Could be ok to get close up shots of people climbing. Also the far side of the bridge with a long lense you can see pretty much the whole wall. I think it's where they took the guide photo from.

Stanners- Mirage is a really good route if you're good enough....I was not! Got absolutely spanked but there's some great moves on quite nice rock. Kemics was on about trying it again so he might have a bit of beta for you. The main problem with the ramp is there's nothing easy enough to warm up on!
Stanners - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
cheers dave
mirage is certainly on my wishlist. New horizons II is a good
warm up surely? Jugs and good gear :-)
Dave 88 - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Stanners:

That's exactly what we thought! Then I got pumped on the rightwards traverse, took what was supposed to be a slump onto the gear, only to have 2 cams rip and end up eye-to-eye with kemics back on the ramp! Kem got it first time and I seconded it clean but we both found it pumpy. In all seriousness, it is cracking, I'm just a bit shit and didn't realise quite how poor cams can be in limestone. The ramp does seem to be exempt from the usual Avon nightmares though; ie scary run-outs, peg lottery and polish.
Stanners - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
haha glad to hear you survived. Yea cams are useless in avon generally. That must have been a brown trouser situation, sounds like a monstrous fall !!!
sjt_2010 on 08 Oct 2012 - cpc1-hawk10-0-0-cust830.aztw.cable.virginmedia.com
Hey guys, cheers for all the advice its really appreciated! I decided I needed to have a proper look myself so went and did a few climbs on saturday, couldn't have asked for better weather!

After having a look round I've decided suspension buttress is the place, probably hells gate. The aim is to climb with both climbers and film along side them from the anchor points. If they've not had enough of the climbing by then (I'm sure a few beers will persuade them) then I'll get them to do the route again and film it from various angles (the road, bridge, and top of the cliffs) probably with a second cameraman at the top.

For the distant shots I'll use a Sony FS700 with a telephoto lens and I'll use a Nikon D800 when I climb up with them.

Thanks again guys, now I've just got to hope for the good weather!
Monk - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to sjt_2010:

> After having a look round I've decided suspension buttress is the place, probably hells gate. The aim is to climb with both climbers and film along side them from the anchor points.

I'm not sure you'll get much in the way of good shots. From the cave belay (which is right next to the crux), you can't see much of the route at all. You'd do much better to be well off to the side. Or have I misunderstood, and you'll be climbing an ab rope?

lukehodson on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
> (In reply to Stanners)
> The ramp does seem to be exempt from the usual Avon nightmares though; ie scary run-outs, peg lottery and polish.

You reckon?!? Other than the crack lines, it's pretty much all peg lottery
Chris Sansum - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to sjt_2010:

I would have a look at Pink Wall Traverse. It has some really nice camera angles, and some unusual stuff in the form of 3 quarryman's spikes which you climb up on a steep bit of the route. I took a few photos of it which you'll find on my FB gallery here: https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151091724840042&id=663820041&set=a.10150966188865042...

Not sure if that link will work as I'm posting from my mobile. Will check from a pc in a bit...
ads.ukclimbing.com
dbm on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to sjt_2010:

Are you aware of the ClimbBristol project?

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/climb-bristol-avon-gorge-restoration-project

Maybe contacting the team behind the project will be to mutual benefit depending what your intent for the video is?

David

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