/ Positive feedback wanted for Unconvinced Mrs

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yorkshiresherpa - on 05 Oct 2012
Hi, I recently got my other half into climbing and now she's hooked but she's still under the impression that she's completely useless at it(and she thinks being 5 foot 1 gives her a major setback). She's been climbing less than a month but in that time she has managed to climb a yorkshire severe at Brimham on a toprope (only her second outdoor route) and after about five visits to the wall in her first month she is already climbing 6a and has tried abit of indoor leading.

Whilst I know this isn't especially groundbreaking I was just hoping a few people on here could help me convince her that this is good progress and that she should be chuffed with how she's done. Any positive encouragement would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Howardw1968 - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:
Why is it that everyone else except for me is climbing 6a's indoors after a month and I'm still falling off them 6 months later!

Just get someone other than you at the wall to tell her how well she is doing.
Billy the fish - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa: Measuring progress and performance by how much you enjoy the climb, not how you grade it can help.
yorkshiresherpa - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to Billy the fish: Yes whilst I agree wholly with that point I was only referring to the grades as a useful basic measure of progression. Grades mean nothing to my missus, but if it means I can show her she's abit better than she was two weeks ago then theres nothing wrong with that. We all like to know we are seeing something for our efforts.
muppetfilter - on 05 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa: With her pushing up through the grades like this it won't be long before she annexes the Sudaten land, invades Poland and kicks off a war on two fronts after a fall out with Stalin.
teh_mark - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

I've been climbing three years now and I still regularly fall off of 6bs and haven't got past Severe (both on lead mind)...you might want to point that out to her!
Neil Williams - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

I've been climbing a couple of years and still can't consistently do all 6As, so I don't think she is doing badly ;)

Neil
doz - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa: I been at it fifteen years plus and still have plenty days where I wooble on v.diffs and I love it all more than ever...
Oh and I wish I was 5 ft- might stop getting my head jammed under those roofs
PixieNinja - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa: I've been climbing just under a year and was doing 6as in the first few months n then sometimes now fall off em!
And had real trouble with my confidence when belayling but I'm told that its improved massively.
I can understand if she's still a bit unsure about outdoors, it took me a lot longer than a few months to ever get used to it, sounds like she's doing really well.
Do you both go climbing with friends? I always feel like I'm not achieving enough because I'm the newby, maybe you can compare her achievments to some that have been doing it for longer n how well she's holding her own.
derryclimbs - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

Here's a comparison; My gf is a mere 5 foot and has now been climbing for about 2 1/2 years. In that time she's been confidently leading on outdoor sport routes, led a few easy trad routes, seconded me on exposed multipitch climbs, knows lots of rescue procedures, climbs with good technique and even put up a few new routes with me when we were travelling overseas. Yet she still classes herself as a beginner because she struggles on a 6a! Grades aren't everything.
Mostly I put it down to the fact she climbs with people who climb harder grades or have more knowledge and therefore classes herself as the most inexperienced in the group.
red.stiletto - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:
Get her leading! It's very empowering to be in charge and making the decisions not just doing what someone else does. Extra good for girls as often at the crag people are a little but surprised/impressed to see the girl lead not the bloke! ;)
ScottyB2021 - on 06 Oct 2012
Mate she sounds like she is doing well and I agree with that guy, what she gets out of climbing is the most important thing, I recently did my first indoor lead on a 4, totally rubbish climb for a top rope but best climb I have ever done when I lead it!!
Ciro - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

Everyone sees the "advantages" of being tall for climbing 6s when you're learning, what's not so obvious is the fact that being shorter you learn to use more technique to get up those routes sooner. It usually becomes apparent when you get to around 6c/7a and the short person begins to catch and then overtake her tall friends.

If she doesn't want to take my word for that, you can point out that being five foot one doesn't seem to have held Sasha di Giulian back much!
JonathanJones - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

Take her to Stanage to do some S's I found a lot of the ones at Brimham tricky - it might help up her confidence! 4 years on and still falling off 6a's indoors :)
needvert on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

So 6a is around a 24? Damn! Only just make it up 21s, if I'm lucky.
Mark Bull - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Ciro:

> If she doesn't want to take my word for that, you can point out that being five foot one doesn't seem to have held Sasha di Giulian back much!

Or Lynn Hill.

Neither plastic nor gritstone is the most forgiving medium for the short of stature as they tend to lack intermediate holds. Most likely she will find other rock types easier (though she is doing just fine right now!).
woodsy - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:
I am willing to loan her a number of my climbing partners- they will all make her realise she is an awesome climber by comparison :)
KiwiPrincess - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:

Take her away outside,
When you're short/ small All those tiny intermediates are super useful, unlike the gym where you have to do a set move. Small crimps etc are good for small hands.
When I went outside the guys who could haul up Jugs on the overhangs at the climbing wall that I couldn't do weren't as good as me on The Small holds and a face so you needed footwork for so it was really exciting.

I've been climbing A LONG time and I still only onsight 6a reliably. Its taken me to many awesome places around the world
Katherine Ross - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa: Isn't Hazel Findlay about 5'1"?
Dave Garnett - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa:
> Hi, I recently got my other half into climbing and now she's hooked but she's still under the impression that she's completely useless at it(and she thinks being 5 foot 1 gives her a major setback).

Admittedly my other half is a whole inch taller, but she used to lead E3 and second E5, so she shouldn't get obsessed about the height thing. What they lack in height girls often make up for in flexibility and footwork. Gritstone can sometimes be especially unforgiving to the short so make sure she tries mountain crags and limestone where there's almost always an intermediate hold you can use if you are good enough!

Jonny2vests - on 16 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Ciro)
>
> [...]
>
> Or Lynn Hill.
>
> Neither plastic nor gritstone is the most forgiving medium for the short of stature as they tend to lack intermediate holds. Most likely she will find other rock types easier (though she is doing just fine right now!).

Actually plastic is fine once you learn to climb dynamically. Gritstone is an arse though if your short.
Mark Reeves - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to yorkshiresherpa: Does she enjoy it? If so who cares what grade you/she/anyone climbs.

F6a in a month is not bad at all though. I have worked with many people who struggle to reach that grade after years of effort.

5 foot 1 gives her a massive advantage she is probably much lighter than most. If she complains she can't reach holds tell her to get her feet higher!


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