/ Climbing near Derby

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DreadyCraig - on 06 Oct 2012
One of my mates has just moved to Derby, so am planning to incorporate some climbing trips with visits to him.
Where is good to climb for low grade trad within a reasonable driving distance?
Calder - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:

You know that place called the peak that people are always banging on about on here?

Well that is right on the doorstep.
DreadyCraig - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Calder:
cheeky sod ;-)
yeah i know, but i've not really any experience of climbing locations in the peak and a search on here brings up literally hundreds, didn't want to waste my time in some chossy pit when I could be at a decent location.
NIGBEE on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:

You should be able to reach all Peak crags within 1.5 hrs drive most in about 1 hr

Just pick a classic and head there
Calder - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:

You'd have to try really hard to end up in a chossy pit in the peak district, especially so with the gritstone ones.

Certainly all the crags I've been to in the Rockfax guides have been good (I do live in Lancashire though so maybe my perspective has become a bit skewed!). Just get Eastern Grit, it has all you need. Western Grit covers the stuff around Leek which isn't too far either.

Specific suggestions? Stanage Popular and Birchen scream out at me, but there's plenty of stuff at those grades on pretty much every crag in the guide.
Jon Stewart - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Calder:

Isn't Staffordshire grit loads closer than Eastern? I'd go to the Roaches.
Gordon Stainforth - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:

Closest low grade climbing to Derby is Harborough, Black Rocks, Robin Hood's Stride, Birchens and Roaches. Closest in terms of time to get to, Harborough being the nearest, Roaches and Birchens the furthest.
Calder - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Dunno! Can't be too much in it, can there? Anyway, we got no idea what he considers reasonable driving distance, I suppose - but he's probably closer to all of them than I am so has no excuses for any of it!
Oo on 06 Oct 2012
So having just moved to Derby myself I'm a bit disappointed that you've got to drive all the way to the peak.

Does anyone know anywhere super close, not necessarily very good, but suitable for post work mid week climbs?
Si dH - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Black rocks 20 mins
Dovedale or beeston 30 mins
Matlock crags or cratcliffe 35 mins
Churnet 35 mins
Birchen area 50 mins
Froggatt area or staffs grit 50-60 mins
Cheedale area 50-60 mins
Stanage area 60-70 mins
Kinder area maybe 75 mins
In 90-120 mins you can be in yorkshire, cheshire or clwyd. Almost avon.
Loads ive forgotten!
Si dH - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Oo:
Loads around matlock
DreadyCraig - on 06 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Thanks for all the replies. I like the sound of the Roaches as my mates from liverpool could meet me there or Birchen as it has very low grades.
FYI, I regard a reasonable driving distance as an hour, as being from the South the nearest climbing to me is usually 2.5-3 hours drive.
Just need to decide which guide book to get now, east or west.
Aly - on 07 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:
I live in Derby at the moment and reckon that Si dH's times are all about right. If you're after good trad within an hours drive then there's certainly plenty available.

Leek is 45 mins which opens up the Staffs side of things and the Churnet bouldering is 35 mins (all in the Roaches guide)

Black Rocks and the Matlock crags are 30 mins away, Cratcliffe is 40 and Froggatt & Curbar are about an hour. These are all in the new Froggatt guide, as are lots of smaller crags a bit closer to Derby. There are crags worth going to in the Amber Valley area.

There's also lots of mid-grade limestone sport (of varying quality) in the Matlock/Cromford area in the new Peak Lime guide. It's also worth noting that Harborough is close to Derby, and Beeston Tor and Dovedale are both within 40 mins.
DerwentDiluted - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig:

Little Eaton quarry is only a minute or two from Derby, as are Anchor Church caves, both worth a visit. The purpose of that visit will be to assure you that driving for 30 minutes in anorther direction is well worth the effort!
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climber34neil - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to DreadyCraig: how about shinning cliff in the amber valley or beeston tor , should be near to you

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