/ How often to you give yourself a week off?
Please don't say 'listen to your body' because it lies all the time and wouldn't let me get out of bed if I did.
Generally, when life gets in the way of climbing and I have an enforced week off.
1) How hard do you train during your "on" weeks?
2) How old are you?
3) What are you training for? (I'd imagine the intense strains of constant bouldering would need a week off more often than mega-endurance training for climbing 1000m long easy big walls).
4) Which training pro you want to take advice from. As you pointed out, there are people at every point on the time off scale. And there are pro climbers who take lots of different points on this scale too.
If you want a personal recommendation (which will not come from me cos I don't know enough about it!), I'd include as much information as you have on the above points and also include how often you get injured, what causes injuries for you and whether you have any currently.
Ey up, I was not really after info for myself, just interested in how others approach it. I'm 27 though, boulder for a few hours 3 times a week and try to do some training in between. I haven't kept a diary for ages though so not really sure when my last full week off was. Probably last Christmas so one is well over due!
I sometimes have a few days to a week off immediately after a trip or after a big redpoint (maybe a week after the former, a couple of days off after the latter) to allow me to take stock, blow the diet control and that sort of thing. Sometimes I don't bother though. So probably 3-4 times a year or something, plus maybe one more when I just decide I can't be arsed for a few days.
I know some people do a 3-weeks-hard-1-week-easier structure, but taking a full rest week each month would feel kind of overkill to me.
I'll usually take between three to five days off after a big climbing trip, and the last couple of years I've taken four weeks off at the end of the summer climbing season, and found that to refresh me both physically (after the initial weakness is gone) and mentally before launching into an autumn of plastic pulling.
Elsewhere on the site
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more