/ Calling all North Devon and Cornwall Climbers.

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Mark Kemball - on 08 Oct 2012
The North Devon and Cornwall guide is now 12 years old and it's about time we started writing a new one. Iain Peters and I are taking on the project and are looking for helpers! How can you help?

1) There's a meeting to start the ball rolling at The Bush Inn, Morwenstowe http://www.bushinn-morwenstow.co.uk/ 10th November, 7pm - all are welcome. If you want to get involved but can't make the meeting, either contact us via this thread or email me.

2) UKC logbooks - please give feedback on any route you have done: Are grades and stars correct? What state are any in-situ pegs in? Are any belay or abseil stakes in good condition? Any new (or old) routes missing from the database etc?

With the above in mind, I'm working through the logbooks for the area adding as much info as I can to the database.
Iain Peters - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Just to add to Mark's post: we're particularly keen to receive feedback on some of the less popular crags, such as Carn Gowla, Pentire, Tintagel, and the more recently developed crags on The Culm.

Also, camping on the N Coast in November could be unpleasant, so if coming to the meeting involves an overnight, let me know and I can fix up something more comfortable for you.
AJM - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Mark,

As a random thought, and I don't know whether it's within your powers to adjust things now, that weekend doesn't look so great for the tides (the CC website suggests appledore tides at about 3pm high which is going to be pretty limiting). That could put off any non/less local culm aficionados who might want to lend a hand.

As one of those non-local aficionados (a day at Sharpnose not long back reminded me how many good days out I've had on that bit of coast), I was hoping to make it down one of the other, better-tide weekends in November for some climbing, but probably can't justify driving down on a bad-tide weekend just for the meeting.

Anyway, just a thought...

Andy

Mark Kemball - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM: Having set the date so it suits a bunch of folks, I'm reluctant to change it!

I've now entered all the routes I know of into the database for the Culm Coast (Sloo Slabs - Widemouth Bay). I've not put in route descriptions for any of the routes in the guides (too much like hard work), but, with Dave Henderson's permission, I've copied across new route details from his javu website. (There are also a number of phototopos on his site). http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/NorthDevonandCornwall/NorthDevonCornwall.shtml
Motown - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: Great inspiration to get on some North Devon and Cornwall obscurities. Thank you.
Stone Idol - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: Hi Mark - can't get to Morwenstowe (3 line whip from wife) but live near Pentire and happy to get involved.

Roger
Iain Peters - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Stone Idol:

Excellent. Thanks very much, we'll be in touch.
Skip - on 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

May be able to make the meet. Love to help out anyway. Have sent you mail.
Matt Vigg - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

This should keep you busy! Would be up for "helping out" by climbing a few routes with you when I'm back, but suspect the weather won't allow it at Christmas....
Dave Garnett - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Unfortunately I don't get down there anything like as much as I once did but if we move before it's out I'll be in touch!

Weren't you once a Bournbrook / Northfield / Redditch /Warwick wall regular? I'm sure we've met.
Mark Kemball - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> (In reply to Mark Kemball)

>
> Weren't you once a Bournbrook / Northfield / Redditch /Warwick wall regular? I'm sure we've met.

Back in the 70s, just the Redditch wall. - I was the guy who managed to set fire to a tent on a Ceunant club meet to Borrowdale.
Mark Kemball - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Matt Vigg:


We might be lucky with the weather, you never know. I'll be preparing a list for a Culm "dagger attack" - there are still loads of routes in the area which have not, as far as I know, been repeated since the 2000 guide, and probably some not since the 1988 guide.

Hows married life? Love to Lisa.
Dave Garnett - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:
> (In reply to Dave Garnett)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Back in the 70s, just the Redditch wall. -

That'll be it. Together with Ian Parsons, Jon de Montjoye, Brian Hannon et al.
Matt Vigg - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Sounds good, and yep all well ta, lots of people still talking about Solly's performance (and apparently it was all filmed, will try and bring a copy back!)
ROFFER - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Am I right in thinking that the previous NDC guide included the Exmoor Coast? Even the Somerset bits? Is it your intention to include it in the new guide?

Cheers
jon on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:
> (In reply to Dave Garnett)
> [...]
>
> [...]
> I was the guy who managed to set fire to a tent on a Ceunant club meet to Borrowdale.

I didn't know that Mark. I remember Roger Lavil telling me about it. Now I don't know how much Roger embellished the story... but having dragged you from the smouldering remnants of the tent in front of a crowd of onlookers he turned and said to you:
"Go on... tell them what you do."
"I'm a safety officer."
"Go on... "
"For the Gas Board!"
Please, please don't tell me it's not true. Please.

Iain Peters - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to ROFFER:

That's not been decided yet. Baggy and The Exmoor Coast and Hurlstone Point will be covered by a new guide, but possibly in separate volumes, given the large number of new routes put up all along the N Coast in the 12 years since the last guide.
Iain Peters - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to jon:

With that track record Jon (if true), I'm glad we're producing this guide electronically and not on paper!
Mark Kemball - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to jon: Well, I was working for the gas board, but not as a safety officer! No one was in the tent at the time and Roger was an amused onlooker who lent us a tent for the following night.
jon on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Hmmm, you must admit Roger's version has a certain je ne sais quoi, that yours sadly lacks.
Mark Kemball - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to jon: Well, you haven't asked how I set fire to the tent yet...
jon on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Well I did assume it was your stove...?
MGrock - on 09 Oct 2012
Hi there,
I have been climbing on this coast for about 25 years and have done a few new routes. I was speaking to Dave Hope previous guide writter about this just last month. Anyway very keen to help. I'll try to be there.
Mark
Mark Kemball - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to jon: Boiling an egg on my primus, bought the billy to the boil, put in the egg. Very strong smell of parafin, it was when the flames started coming out of the billy that I realised it was full of boiling parafin... (My parafin and water containers were almost identical.)
jon on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Classic Mark. Worth waiting 35(?) years for!
Skip - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Any one from West Cornwall traveling up for this meeting?
pete3685 - on 23 Oct 2012
Mark/Iain. Happy to help with the Stepper Point to Newquay section, as its in my back yard. Just need to finish working on the Chair Ladder script first
oakapple - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: Hi Mark, I do not think I will be able to make it up to the pub. I may be able to help with some of Cligga to Carn Gowla stuff.
David Hillebrandt - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Will not be able to attend but obviously happy to help. Have a lot of information. You know how to contact me and welcome to use my library.

Dave H
Tom Last - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Hi Mark.

Likewise, I doubt I'll make the meeting, but can help out with Penhale Camp if you want? Unless anyone else is desperate to do it... well you never know!

Just drop me an email if that's any use.

Cheers!
Tom
maxd - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Wow! What a great plan! Mark - would be lovely to come on 8th but prob wont be able to make it. I'll trawl thro my guide and comment on any routes as much as poss. I'd be keen to put in the DWS at Perranporth plus a few more gems!! I can work on Gowla if you want with James (oakapple).
Max Dutson
Mark Kemball - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread or contacted me. As far as I can tell, the logbook database now contains at least the names and grades for all the climbs on the Culm and the Atlantic coasts. There's bound to be errors and ommisions though - would be very pleased to hear of any.
Look forward to meeting you at the Bush on Saturday. (The beer is good!)
Mark Kemball - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: Bump, reminder! See you tomorrow night.
Skip - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Will anyone going to the meeting be climbing in the area on Sunday?
Mark Kemball - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Skip: Yes, in principle, weather permitting. The tides are naff though, so we'll have to pick somewhere non-tidal. Floor space is available if you need a doss.
Skip - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Is there anywhere non-tidal?
Should be okay for somewhere to sleep, thanks.
Mark Kemball - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Skip: Non tidal? Yes, on my doorstep (and I've not actually climbed there) Millook http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9389 then there's Kellan head http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=688 Com Head http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18348 (again I've not climbed there even though I'm moderating it!!), Rumps Point http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3039 and a lot of the upper cliffs on Pentire http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315
Mark Kemball - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: Thank you to all the folks who turned up at the meeting last night (about 20!) and to everyone who was unable to attend but has contacted Iain or myself offering help. I will be writing up notes from the meeting and circulating them in the next few days. Right now, the sun is shining I'm off out to check some Culm!
Al Evans on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Iain Peters: Do you remember the night I think i first met you? It was on these roustabouts at the Baggy campsite. John Barry, then director of Plas Y Brenin was there and instrumental for us getting thrown out of the bar because of some altercarion with the bouncer.
We all retird to the tents to carry on drinking and John said 'there is one thing all if you can do better than anyone else in the world, if you find out yours and can make it commercial you are lauging' He vowed to show us his 'one thing in the world' after a couple more pints.
Sure enough, come midnight we assemled to see Johns great feat.
He got his dick out, built up a head of steam and pissed completely over a car can't remember whose( without touching it). An amazing feat and the only thing I can remember about your last organised SW meet :-)
Iain Peters - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Al Evans:

I'm not sure whether I should be allowed to organize any meet! A couple of years back one of my "bright idea" little gatherings, this time in Greece, ended up with a German yachtsman almost being thrown into a harbour and some serious negotiations with the Greek police!

Last night was, of course, arranged by Mark, and therefore ran like clockwork with all of the great and good of D&C climbing on their best behaviour. We're even going to be allowed back to the same pub in March, when hopefully many of the 300 or so daggered routes in the region will have lost that symbol.

Thanks to Mark and all the others. I reckon the next guide to ND&C is going to be an absolute belter. Pre-order now!!!!
Mark Kemball - on 12 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball: I've just sent out an email to all the people who were at the meeting or who offered to help. If you don't get your email (because I've miss-typed an address), please contact me.
Cheers,
Mark.

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