/ European F8 slabs?

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ian Ll-J - on 08 Oct 2012


Thinking about a sport climbing trip this December and would like to have a go at red pointing any technical / crimpy slabs.

Any info on suitable destinations and specific routes would be appreciated.

Thanks...
ian Ll-J - on 09 Oct 2012
Bump...
robin mueller - on 09 Oct 2012
EddieC on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:

By F8 do you mean 8a and above? If so that's a bit above my grade range. La Pedriza near Madrid's an obvious choice for slab climbing at all grades although it's possibly a bit cold in December. Search for earlier threads on here.

I haven't been but I think there are meant to be some pretty tough slabs at Buoux.
ian Ll-J - on 09 Oct 2012


Thanks, looks great...though you may be right about it being cold in December.
Jon Read - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:
There are a few routes at the far left reopened bit of Buoux (Face Ouest) that have slab cruxes, only one is graded F8a though. You will have to cope with some non-slab work to tick them though!

Corsica may be worth considering. Several F8a-8b granite slabs established by the Petite brothers over the years, at Bavella.
http://unevieagrimper.blogspot.fr/2012/04/octogenese.html
(scroll down for the Roc n Wall article)
Carless - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:

Was there around Xmas once

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=22429

Varied from t-shirts in the sun to bitterly cold
robin mueller - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:
>
>
> Thanks, looks great...though you may be right about it being cold in December.

This from a local website:

Hello guys!
La Pedriza has one of the the best granite you´ve ever climbed, incredible! in a endless beatiful landscape. However, climbing here needs cold, the best season is from fall to spring.

http://entreansias-uk.blogspot.co.uk/
john arran - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:

There are several 8a routes on the Alliat crags here in Ariège with slab cruxes, albeit not necessarily slabby the whole way. On two of them I got through all the hard steep climbing to within a few metres of the chain, thinking I may be set for the onsight, only to end up unable to dog a reach move that still would have been desperate even if I could have reached it :(
ian Ll-J - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to robin mueller:
Does anyone know of any climbers accomodation near La Pedriza?
silo - on 13 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:
> (In reply to robin mueller)
> Does anyone know of any climbers accomodation near La Pedriza?

we elected to stay in the hotel in the middle of town!It was good value.
In reply to robin mueller:

Typical La Pedriza - the steeper the face the harder the routes:

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/57379077

Chris
RockShock on 15 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:

In the middle of La Pedriza you've got a refuge: http://www.refugioginer.com/ Plenty of places to sleep under the rocks as well. The refuge might be closed in winter outside weekends though...

Even if you stay in Madrid it's just an hour's trip in a bus to Manzanares El Real and then further two of walking to get you to the most of the crags...

Locals say the best temperature to climb here is between 5C and 10C, so December is not a bad choice - unless it will snow of course - the winters here tend to get relly random...
Fiend - on 15 Oct 2012
In reply to ian Ll-J:

Pedriza is brilliant but desperate, it will fit the bill as long as by "crimpy" you mean crimping on sloping crystals the size of a midge's bollox. There are even some F8b/cs to go at and given how shockingly undergraded the 6bs were I can only imagine the horror on the higher grades.

December probably isn't cold enough, ideally you'd want it well below freezing so the slightest hint of sweat would freeze and stick you onto the rock.

There is plentiful accomodation in and near the local town, we stayed in cabins at a campsite 15 mins drive away.

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