/ "Underhyped" Rock Climbing Areas

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alooker - on 09 Oct 2012
Places that you thought weren't going to be great but turned out alright in the end! (And why)
davidbeynon - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

East face of A'Mhaighdean. Nobody ever goes there and it's a big walk in so I was expecting it to be a pretty chossy but pretty venue. Turned out to be a spectacular place to climb with no people and solid rock.
alan moore - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:
That's surprisingly tricky. Rock climbing is rarely underhyped!
Hooo - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:
Southern sandstone! Admittedly it's not great, but it's not the unclimbable horror that the hype would have you believe.
Dan Lane - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Peak Limestone! It's a right good adventure!
r0x0r.wolfo - on 09 Oct 2012
I think the gunks is underhyped here, by underhyped I guess I mean its not really known over here. I just got back a few weeks ago and have mentioned going before and after to people in climbing shops and centres and they just smile and nod at me. Just thought more people would have, beautiful place. Some canadians drove 13 hours down just for labour day weekend, crazy.
deepstar - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: Sandford Quarry,Somerset amazing place.
Tyler - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Valle dell'Orco
mike kann - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: In total contrast to robert on the other thread, J Tree. I knew nothing about the place and only went because it was snowing in Yosemite, and Tioga pass was shut. As a result we went to the desert as we figured it couldn't be snowing there. We had a few days great climbing there, then went to red rocks and did some of the big trad climbing there... Tuolumne also plays second fiddle to Yosemite and it really really shouldn't - its amazing! I also think Cheddar in terms of the trad is underhyped. Its deeply unfashionable to do the big trad routes there these days other than Coronation street and some of the routes are just blinding. You always have an adventure there and it feels big, remote, the climbing can be quite wild and you always come away feeling like you had a worthwhile day!
manumartin - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: cow's mouth quarry......
davidbeynon - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Stannington Ruffs!

I haven't actually been there, but surely the place can't be as bad as they say. Can it?
Ava Adore - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Stanage

;-)
Goucho on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann: Completely agree with you regarding Tuolumne - magnificent place and a great contrast with the Valley - brilliant climbing, brilliant location, brilliant atmosphere :-)
Wolfy1987 NEWMC - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: clwyd limestone (especially worlds end to Trevor rocks. Plenty of routs for everyone in a stunning location. Never really that busy ether!!
Jamie B - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Neist. Everyone seems to think that Skye = Cuillins, but this is an extensive venue blessed with a great outlook and often favorable weather. If it was anywhere else it'd be mobbed, and rightly so.
robmack - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: ley quarry
Bulls Crack - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to alooker)
>
> Neist. Everyone seems to think that Skye = Cuillins, but this is an extensive venue blessed with a great outlook and often favorable weather. If it was anywhere else it'd be mobbed, and rightly so.

Favourable weather? Compared to where - Tierra del Fuego?
Jimbo C - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Hen Cloud. Probably something to do with being next to the Roaches and I'd heard it can be a bit green. It turned out to have some of the best routes I've ever been on - like mountain routes but on grit!
victim of mathematics - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to Jamie Bankhead)
> [...]
>
> Favourable weather? Compared to where - Tierra del Fuego?

Neist has saved many a day on Skye from being a washout. That place is magic :)
The Ivanator - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: Ogmore on the South Wales coast west of Cardiff is a wild and adventurous sea cliff that doesn't get too much attention, only done a few routes there but keen to return and explore further.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Robert Durran - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Goucho:
> (In reply to mike kann) Completely agree with you regarding Tuolumne.

Tuolumne is very, very good, but is it actually underhyped? I reckon it's reputation is about right.
Goucho on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: You're probably right, although in my experience, a lot of people seemed to go there when it got a bit too hot in the Valley (how I first went there too) as opposed to just going there for itself.

Nerve Wrack Point would be in my top 5 favourite rock routes in fact.
shantaram - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: Areas that don't have mass popularity, but are truly world class are:

Corsican granite multi pitch climbing eg Bavella, Restonica. The lack of good guidebooks are a major factor

Pabbay/Mingulay - would convince the most die hard gritstone addict, that gneiss is Gods own rock, if they could handle the abseils, and the effort of getting there

The Grampians - overshadowed by its more famous neighbour

Cedarberg, S.Africa - again overshadowed by a more famous neighbour Rocklands. Anybody climbed here? It's trad multi pitch heaven.



I like climbing - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:
Thanks for mentioning this. I am planning to get there and am really looking forward to it.
I like climbing - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:
A'Mhaighdean - don't know anything about Stannington Ruffs !
alooker - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to shantaram: cedarberg is awesome. Shame I couldn't spend more time there
saffy - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: ramshaw?
Alun - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
Ogmore is an amazing place that people go to once, tell everybody afterwards about how amazing it is, but never go back (I include myself in this description).

I'm not so sure that it's underhyped, rather than it just being too much hassle for most people.
John Stainforth - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Hooo:

I was born and bred on Southern Sandstone, so have a personal soft (no pun intended) spot for it. But it probably is overhyped. Certainly relative to most of the sandstone in other countries (e.g. "southern sandstone" of the US, which is vastly better in quantity and quality, and underhyped).

Personal votes here for Yosemite, Toulomne Meadows and Joshua Tree. In my view all three live up to the hype, and are not overhyped.
Calder - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Wilton.

Why? Cos it doesn't get hyped.......... and it's brill.

I went when I was a total newby, Lancs Rock in hand, mate dragged along. Looking around everything looked nails, I wanted something to warm up on. "This, it's Diff, got 1 star." Good god, horrific.

I went back when I knew which routes no-one ever did and found good, steep, manly, challenging climbing, which for a weakling like me is what I need a diet of. And then out of nowhere you find a lovely delicate gem of a route just to remind you it can be subtle.

For anyone who hasn't made this mistake yet - avoid the diffs altogether, and with the exception of Rappel Wall and possibly Orange Corner, avoid all the VDiffs. Beyond that most of the routes are great.
alan moore - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:
Gunks unknown here? I thought it was second to Yosemite in fame? It's not bad either; steep climbing on holds. A bit like a British crag.
alan moore - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Alun:
I loved Ogmore. A truly scary place!
paget - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: City of the rocks, a long drive, middle of nowhere! But once there awesome camping, climbing ten feet from your tent, bolts where it's blank, gear where there's cracks, hot springs and one bar that does steak an beer. Lots of coyotes to give it ambiance at night. Sweet.
jon on 10 Oct 2012
Robert Durran - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to alooker)
>
> Here:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=206445


Shhhhhhh

Robert Durran - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to paget:
> (In reply to alooker) City of the rocks.

Yes. Made Joshua Tree seem overhyped for me.
jon on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:

That was specially for you Rob. We've just had another four day visit... brilliant!
SARS on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Hong Kong - loads of great bouldering and sport climbing and even multi-pitch such as the fantastic Wards Groove on Lions Rock.

Japan and specifically the amazing sea cliff sports crag Jogasaki. On a quiet winter's day the sea side setting is probably one of the best single pitch sport climbing crags I've been to anywhere in the world. Overhung knarly routes in a location only accessible by climbers, looking out over the sea. Brilliant. Also, only 2hr away from Tokyo by Shinkansen, so easily accessible for the casual Japan visitor.
Red Rover - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker: Mont Aguile in the Vercors, I thought the climbing was a bit scrappy (but might be better on the steerper, harder routes) but the setting was great and the summit itself s brilliant, like the Inn Pinn but a couple of hundred meters high and room for a game of football on top.
Red Rover - on 11 Oct 2012
ads.ukclimbing.com
Al Evans on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Hooo:
> (In reply to alooker)
> Southern sandstone! Admittedly it's not great, but it's not the unclimbable horror that the hype would have you believe.

Speaking of Southern Sandstone I was well impressed by Under Rockes compared to what I expected.
Al Evans on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Evans: Another great place sadly underated and no longer accesible was Pant Quarry near The Gower.
http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Pant%20Quarry%20Main%20Wall.htm
A Gary Gibson site topo, huge sport climbs on good rock but the quarrymen are antsy these days.
James Oswald - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:

Diabaig.
James Oswald - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to alooker:
Loch Tollaidh Crags

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