/ Mow Cop Climbs
Have a look on the Logbooks section here. I know there are some restrictions as a number of the climbs are VERY close to local residents.
The 1975 peak Paul Nunn guide book lists 4 routes.
Spiral route S 4a and 3 x VS 4c's
Have a look here:
When I checked for the last but one guidebook the status was as EZ describes: climbing was prohibited everywhere except Millstone Quarry. My experience is also that the staff on site are really not keen and, to be honest, the climbing probably isn't worth getting into a big dispute about.
The Old Man is the big prize of course. Long reputed to be about to fall down but it was still there last time I looked. Dawn ascents in midsummer are rumoured but it would be embarrassing to be the one who ended up buried under the rubble...
Much better and equally rarely climbed things to do at Bosley Cloud.
Seconded. Bosley knocks spots off Mow Cop.
Bosley is best.
Did spiral route years ago, at dusk on a frosty march evening straight after work; outside cragging before the clocks change. Route was more like VS than S (although only about 4a) and very nice.
While on top of the old man an "official" appeared complete with alsation dog and stout stick, he waved some sort of card at my mate Dennis and told him the Police were on there way. He instructed me to come down immediately - my response was that I was in charge of safety not him and I would come down when I decided it was safe. He looked miffed but managed to intimidate my partner into not following. As I rigged the abseil I pointed out that when I got down I wanted to see the identification card that he claimed gave him the authority to hassle us and that I was looking forward to discussing with the constabulary his use of a large stick and big dog to intimidate us. With that I set off abseiling and he scarpered double quick. I later learned from a climber who lived up there that he was nothing more than the local busy body. Great evening, watching the sun set over the Cheshire Plain, nice route with extra fun factor free of charge, just a pity that Dennis (who was far too nice a chap) was psyched out of the route. Never had any problem bouldering in the quarries.
No doubt some will say that this is the sort of behaviour that causes access problems, in this case it can't as there is no official access to lose! We all have to remember that it wasn't that long ago that it was only only by breaking the rules and trying to evade land owners and their employees that anyone could climb on Stanage High Neb and beyond, Bamford, Froggatt or any of the Kinder crags. The acccess we now enjoy had to be fought for by people who just went out and did; climbing used to be anarchic.
I cant believe the forces relating to a climber are going to make such a beast as the Old Man of Mow fall over but if the engineers say its potentially unstable the NT have to formally ban climbing. I'm hoping for a dawn raid or similar one day. Spiral Route has been VS 4a for a while now.
I've climbed in the quarry with no hassle a few years ago, even cleaned what we did up a bit, en route, but its hardly inspiring. Bosley Cloud is lovely esoterica.
Spiral route was the first route I ever fell off - a week off work with a sprained ankle!
I agree with the view that it is highly improbable that the wieght of a couple of climbers will pull the thing down. The cracks do go all the way through but the blocks are huge and interlocked, it would take a fair old force to get them moving and I've never been that stong.
If NT are concerned about its stability we'd better not tell them about Napes Needle which is also on their land. The lovely crack that circumnavigates the tope block above the shoulder (and forms the line of the VS Girdle Traverse) goes right through the needle and if you sit on the top block and rock from side to side the whole thing will move - a very interesting feeling given the situation!
I have always thought it would be nice to watch the sun rise from the top of the old man of mow so a dawn raid sounds like a good idea.
Hope you get it done.
When he pointed out some of the other stuff he'd done with his brother at Mow Cop, Bosley cloud, Bollington quarry and so on I wasn't sorry that I hadn't been climbing with him on those occasions. Cojones like melons, the boy had.
I'm sure you could get up and down before anyone even noticed.
> Much better and equally rarely climbed things to do at Bosley Cloud.
I remember doing a route called Crystal Voyager at Bosley Cloud which was really good if my memory is correct?
> I remember doing a route called Crystal Voyager at Bosley Cloud which was really good if my memory is correct?
It's excellent, if you can find it!
I keep meaning to go back to the Quarry. Several things I haven't done there. There's the Couch Potato too, not that I intend going anywhere near that, but it would be interesting to know whether it ever had a second ascent.
I mean third ascent, ie has anyone done it since 2000?
Elsewhere on the site
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more