/ Mow Cop Climbs

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Lukecookie on 09 Oct 2012 - host-2-102-22-186.as13285.net
Does anybody know anything about a small hill N. Staffs / S. Cheshire called Mow Cop with some crags on it? and about climbing the crags as it is NT owned?
Rampikino - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie:

Have a look on the Logbooks section here. I know there are some restrictions as a number of the climbs are VERY close to local residents.

M
wilkie14c - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie:
The 1975 peak Paul Nunn guide book lists 4 routes.
Spiral route S 4a and 3 x VS 4c's
Rampikino - on 09 Oct 2012
Double Knee Bar - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie: I got turned away by the NT two years ago. Discussed with BMC and they say access is allowed by the NT. The wardens don't seem to agree.
Double Knee Bar - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Double Knee Bar: Ref EZ's comments on the link above.
Al Evans on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie: The Woodward brothers, Andrew and Jonny, Jonny did the f/a of Beau Geste among other classic hard routes, did some new routes there back in the 70's.
Dave Garnett - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Evans:

When I checked for the last but one guidebook the status was as EZ describes: climbing was prohibited everywhere except Millstone Quarry. My experience is also that the staff on site are really not keen and, to be honest, the climbing probably isn't worth getting into a big dispute about.

The Old Man is the big prize of course. Long reputed to be about to fall down but it was still there last time I looked. Dawn ascents in midsummer are rumoured but it would be embarrassing to be the one who ended up buried under the rubble...
Double Knee Bar - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett: Yeah, We were climbing on Millstone Quarry when we got turned away by the wardens. Not inspiring rock to be honest. I wouldn't bother going back even being relatively local.
Dave Garnett - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Double Knee Bar:

Much better and equally rarely climbed things to do at Bosley Cloud.
Jon Read - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Seconded. Bosley knocks spots off Mow Cop.
adam11 - on 09 Oct 2012
I remember doing an aid route at Mow Cop in the very early 80's. It was a bit like this 'Dry Tooling' m'larky that the yoof of today rave about.

Bosley is best.
Trevor Langhorne on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie:
Did spiral route years ago, at dusk on a frosty march evening straight after work; outside cragging before the clocks change. Route was more like VS than S (although only about 4a) and very nice.

While on top of the old man an "official" appeared complete with alsation dog and stout stick, he waved some sort of card at my mate Dennis and told him the Police were on there way. He instructed me to come down immediately - my response was that I was in charge of safety not him and I would come down when I decided it was safe. He looked miffed but managed to intimidate my partner into not following. As I rigged the abseil I pointed out that when I got down I wanted to see the identification card that he claimed gave him the authority to hassle us and that I was looking forward to discussing with the constabulary his use of a large stick and big dog to intimidate us. With that I set off abseiling and he scarpered double quick. I later learned from a climber who lived up there that he was nothing more than the local busy body. Great evening, watching the sun set over the Cheshire Plain, nice route with extra fun factor free of charge, just a pity that Dennis (who was far too nice a chap) was psyched out of the route. Never had any problem bouldering in the quarries.

No doubt some will say that this is the sort of behaviour that causes access problems, in this case it can't as there is no official access to lose! We all have to remember that it wasn't that long ago that it was only only by breaking the rules and trying to evade land owners and their employees that anyone could climb on Stanage High Neb and beyond, Bamford, Froggatt or any of the Kinder crags. The acccess we now enjoy had to be fought for by people who just went out and did; climbing used to be anarchic.
Offwidth - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Trevor Langhorne:

Nice story.

I cant believe the forces relating to a climber are going to make such a beast as the Old Man of Mow fall over but if the engineers say its potentially unstable the NT have to formally ban climbing. I'm hoping for a dawn raid or similar one day. Spiral Route has been VS 4a for a while now.

I've climbed in the quarry with no hassle a few years ago, even cleaned what we did up a bit, en route, but its hardly inspiring. Bosley Cloud is lovely esoterica.
Darron - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie:

Spiral route was the first route I ever fell off - a week off work with a sprained ankle!
Trevor Langhorne on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks.

I agree with the view that it is highly improbable that the wieght of a couple of climbers will pull the thing down. The cracks do go all the way through but the blocks are huge and interlocked, it would take a fair old force to get them moving and I've never been that stong.

If NT are concerned about its stability we'd better not tell them about Napes Needle which is also on their land. The lovely crack that circumnavigates the tope block above the shoulder (and forms the line of the VS Girdle Traverse) goes right through the needle and if you sit on the top block and rock from side to side the whole thing will move - a very interesting feeling given the situation!

I have always thought it would be nice to watch the sun rise from the top of the old man of mow so a dawn raid sounds like a good idea.

Hope you get it done.
Rob Exile Ward on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Al Evans: I climbed the Old Man and a few other routes thereabouts with Jonny in the late 70s, very pleased to get the ticks. I must go back to Mow Cop, I remember it being a very evocative place - and the source of the song 'One man went to Mow...' (or not, perhaps.)

When he pointed out some of the other stuff he'd done with his brother at Mow Cop, Bosley cloud, Bollington quarry and so on I wasn't sorry that I hadn't been climbing with him on those occasions. Cojones like melons, the boy had.
andi turner - on 10 Oct 2012
In reply to Lukecookie: I'm bloody keen for an ascent! I work nearby, I can't believe for a second that the police would entertain a call out knowing what they have to deal with locally!
Offwidth - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to andi turner:

I'm sure you could get up and down before anyone even noticed.
Christheclimber - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> (In reply to Double Knee Bar)
>
> Much better and equally rarely climbed things to do at Bosley Cloud.

I remember doing a route called Crystal Voyager at Bosley Cloud which was really good if my memory is correct?

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Lukecookie on 16 Oct 2012 - host-2-103-68-169.as13285.net
Thanks for the info folks!
Dave Garnett - on 16 Oct 2012
In reply to Christheclimber:
> (In reply to Dave Garnett)
> [...]
>
> I remember doing a route called Crystal Voyager at Bosley Cloud which was really good if my memory is correct?

It's excellent, if you can find it!

I keep meaning to go back to the Quarry. Several things I haven't done there. There's the Couch Potato too, not that I intend going anywhere near that, but it would be interesting to know whether it ever had a second ascent.
Dave Garnett - on 16 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I mean third ascent, ie has anyone done it since 2000?
andi turner - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett: Who did the 2nd ascent?

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