/ dmm fly advice

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mook456 - on 09 Oct 2012
hi all looking for a bit of advice please. i have a pair of dmm fly's (the now old ones) and was looking to mod them by adding a bottom hand rest for going leashless. my questions are is it worth going leashless for easy climbs up to grade III ish ? My reasons would be for less hassle when placing gear and i have never liked the feel of being attached to the axe by the wrist.
if so do you think it would be better just to buy new axes instead of messing around with mods? i do like the look of the new fly's and think they would suit me due to low grades etc. any thoughts welcomed.

cheers,
mark
edinburgh_man on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to markymark31:

If you want to use your Flys leashless then simply put a grip rest on the bottom of your existing axes (Petzl & Grivel make a version which will fit easily). The new model is just like the old model but with a grip rest at the bottom of the shaft anyway.

Regarding upto Grade III - if this is your aim then the Fly's are more than adequate.
wilkie14c - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to markymark31:
If you are going to swap now then you'll get rid of the old flys on here no problem as its the 'right' time of year. I went leashless with my flys 2 seasons ago and found it to be a revelation. Everything is just so much easier and hard moves are now much easier if change-overs are needed. I started with a springer type attachment and clipped the 2 strops to the bottom of the axes using tiny CAMP nano crabs. When arriving at a belay its simple to just unclip the axes, clip the ends of the strops together and put it over my head out of the way. I'll still use the springer on routes where dropping an axe whould be a disaster, on the Ben say, but bumbling about at great end and such like I'm quite happy totally leashless. I have the trigrests fitted to my flys, these are fitted at the top of the rubber handrest and provide grip via an index finger trigger hook. They 'unclip' allowing you to slide the thing up to the top of the axe allowing you to plunge the axe. You can pare away a bit of the handle rubber at the bottom of the axe to fit a trigrest at the bottom to work like a hand stop but I never found the need for it. I'm glad I adapted rather than go and buy back then as now I find it suits me I was more informed when I got my new vipers. Just like a fly but shaft is bent more, meaty adze and hammer head, top and bottom hand rests and can still use my springer. The biggest difference was to my hands, not had the screaming abb-dabs since leashless, obviously the leashes were restricting blood flow to the hands. Go for it, you have nothing to lose and perhaps a lot to gain.
mook456 - on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to blanchie14c: Thanks for both replies. I think i will give the petzl trigrest a try and save forking out on new tools. As mentioned the new fly's are virtually the same anyway and dont think i could justify buying anthing too technical for what i climb.

cheers
Milesy - on 09 Oct 2012
I am going leashless with my Flys this year. Even on grade II and III the wrist leashes are just an inconvenience to me now. Going to put 2 triggers on each tool.
Martin W on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to markymark31: This is what I did with my Flys: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127421 Fitting the Griprest required a bit of work drilling the web of the spike to take the fixing bolt - the steel is very hard so you need a heavy-duty bit to make reasonable headway (IIRC I actually sacrificed a tile bit to get the hole started). I have since cut & filed away the Griprest around the big spike hole so that I can use the axes with a Grivel spring leash. Worked like a charm in Rjukan the year before last!
smuffy on 09 Oct 2012
In reply to markymark31: Use the Petzl trig rests as they are far more comfortable than the Grivel ones. I use Grivel Matrix Lights these days but still have Petzl trig rests up the shaft in conjunction with the Grivel grip rests on the base of the shaft.
If you need to pack the trig rests then I used a piece of biclye inner tube that was a perfect fit over the axe shaft.

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