/ Arete Rouge Directe D+ Barre Des Ecrins

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sniffy - on 12 Oct 2012
Somebody out there must have done this route, can you give me any info on the walk in and the climb etc., Cheers Sniffy
Cardi - on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to sniffy: I was keen to do it when there 4 years ago, but a few days before some of our friends backed off it saying it was the loosest pile of chose they had ever been on, with a lot of rockfall. One, a geologist stated that he wasn't sure how the whole mountain was still standing! That was enough to discourage any further contemplation.
dan gibson - on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to sniffy: A local guide warned me to keep well away from this route about ten years ago.
I had a look at the start anyway, very loose and dangerous.
I retreated very quickly.
Martin Haworth on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to sniffy: I haven't done it but I've been on that face, it is a big traditional route(1100m) and you have to descend by the normal route. The lower easy sections have some loose rock but the main climbing is on good rock for 600m to 800m. The original line was prone to rockfall in one section but the usual line nowadays is to do Arete Rouge Directe (D+)and avoid the gully where the rockfall is.
The approach is relatively straight forward, if you want to do it in a single push then best to bivvy at the boulders at the end of the Glacier Noire footpath.
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jon on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to sniffy:

A couple of years ago I was keen to do the S Pillar but never did it for a variety of reasons. There might be some good info on the thread I started at the time: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=401786

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