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Topic - Portland rock warning

John Alcock - on 17 Oct 2012
Aside of the recent rock fall from Pregnant Pause described elsewhere on the site, there are a number of other routes whose stability may have been affected by the wet summer.
On our first visit to Portland for some months last weekend we noticed:
Blacknor South: Talk 6a+
The big ledge at three quarters height moved when we stood on it. It's got a sloping crack running under it and if it ever gets pulled off people will die. Be careful when mantelling on to it.
Blacknor North: Cinema Paradiso 6a
The bottom roof has cracks all the way round underneath it. We moved left under it without pulling on it, but it's clearly going to come down one day with horrible results. Some other holds were loose higher up. Take care. I've never pulled a hold off it, but I've seen East European climbers breaking multiple holds off as they climbed. I think they were used to climbing totally solid rock!
Cheyne Cliff: Drowning on Dry Land area.
As we walked past to Road Rage. it looked as if this area had suffered significant rock fall and parts of some of the first routes might be missing. We didn't have an up-to-date guidebook with us, so I can't be more precise.
Incidentally the fixed rope below Road Rage is badly worn. I'll replace it next time I'm there but that may not be for some months. If anyone is heading there soon and has a spare 15 feet of rope and a knife, it would be great if you could cut the old rope off and replace it.
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