/ The bible that is Yorkshire Gritstone has arrived

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chalkyjim - on 19 Oct 2012
Finally got my hands on the new grit guide and after all the hype I can only say it stands up as the forerunner of how it should be done. The YMC team has done itself proud with the quality of layout, the photos detailing the routes, the route description and the action shots are all really inspiring. Couple that with the history and what must have been an endless research project into the history of climbing in the area, this book isn't just a grit tick list, it's a to do list.
The divide between volumes was a scary proposition having to buy two guides instead of one complete guide but it is clear that with this level of detail to have a single comprehensive guide would be impossible and at £25 stands at amazing value for money. Climbers are famously tight non more so than myself but how many other books will you be referancing in 10-15 years time.

Good effort to all involved and I hope the second part of the guide stands up to this one.
Jim
adi3969 - on 20 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: I wonder if there's a pint for the first to complete all the ticklists , I've already done the brimham VS's , though the dyno list could be a bit tricky.
mark catcher - on 20 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: You do yourself a diservice Jim; Mally is tighter than you.
Offwidth - on 20 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

How Yorkshire!...is this the best value yet per route/problem of any published guidebook??

Its also seriously impressive that Robin and his team managed to get this volume out so quickly. It's no easy task to go to a colour photo topo layout and insert all the bouldering for the first time.
adi3969 - on 20 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth: i think grimers boulder Britain is definitely in the same ball park , although just bouldering the mileage covered and the info for all the venues is total value for money, welcome to the nu skool
Robin Nicholson - on 20 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth: We had a great team throughout, you guys included. That's what made the difference. We even had Lancastrians on the team. I'm putting us in for the Nobel Peace prize. If it works for the EU...
ERH - on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

It's just soooo pretty! I do have one problem with it, I have yet to have any damage to it, so I am paranoid about it getting ruined, and have been really over protective of it!
adi3969 - on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to ERH: Try backing it with your favorite wallpaper like you used to do with your exercise books at school. Mine's backed with Star Wars paper.
chalkyjim - on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Covers ibbo's ugly mug too
Paul Clarke on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to adi3969:
that's a really good idea! ....... And carrying it up to Simon's Seat could make me lose pounds in weight (and I need to).

Top effort Robin and the editorial team. Many thanks for the happy hours the guide will bring.

Paul
Paul Clarke on 21 Oct 2012
In reply to Paul Clarke:
Adi's good idea not chalky Jims!
P
chalkyjim - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Cheeky aren't I
crisp - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: Where can I buy a copy?
Robin Nicholson - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to crisp:
http://www.cordee.co.uk/Yorkshire-Gritstone-Volume-1---Almscliff-to-Slipstones-det-1-0-0-9800.html

And quite a few walls and outdoor shops had stock last week. Cheers
PaulHermes - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: Ive just got mine from Harrogate Climbing Centre.
Forget the job hunting today!!
nigel baker - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: The New Yorkshire Gritstone Guide....
An excellent job of work by all concerned. The next generation of guidebooks......Well done.....Just buy it!
OK, I am a bit biased!!!
Paul Clarke on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to PaulHermes:
Could be a sure sign of grit obsessive disorder Paul
debbien1 - on 22 Oct 2012
I'm backing mine with a carpet square. Extra protection and doubles as a shoe cleaner. Worth its weight in gold ;)
PaulHermes - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Paul Clarke: Too right Paul!! Now got to spend hours transfering all my ticks and its only volume one lol
adi3969 - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to PaulHermes: anyone spotted themselves on an aerial shot yet , the cliff and slipstones look good contenders
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Robin Nicholson - on 23 Oct 2012
Good news - the BMC now have them in stock: http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6667
chalkyjim - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Robin Nicholson:
Pics of your trip look good
unclesamsauntibess - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to PaulHermes:
> (In reply to Paul Clarke) Too right Paul!! Now got to spend hours transfering all my ticks and its only volume one lol

aye, it'll be hard work ticking all the severes (or lower).........
Robin Nicholson - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: Was awesome. Month in Squamish was ace. Come home psyched for the grit with some new guide that's out apparently then tweak a finger tendon day 1 back at the wall. Any suggestions for good reading material during the rehab? There's a photo of some wad cutting loose on Orchrist kicking about on a contents page somewhere.
chalkyjim - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to Robin Nicholson:

Gutted.
Pleased with the pic.
Going out tomorrow with the power dwarf if your free.
adam collinge - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: Excellent work on the guidebook , top pics and love the ariel shots.looking forward to volume 2.well done to the guide book team.the future of guidebook layouts is here.
BeckyPayne - on 26 Oct 2012
Love the new guidebook! Great to see my pic made the guide :D Cheers for the excellent photography Adi! :)
chalkyjim - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Has anyone got theirs from cordee yet?
Steve Crowe - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

I am very impressed. This is an excellent guide which includes all the routes and problems together. Clear maps, superb photo diagrams, excellent action photography (especially the shot of Karin!).

Font grades for the bouldering as is rapidly becoming the norm now.

Some superb esoterica included especially around Masham. Check out Roova on page 600...

Just buy it.
chalkyjim - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to Steve Crowe:

I had a trip up to Roova and was genuinely impressed. Nice walk in too.
PontiusPirate on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

I'd noted Roova as a possibility back in 1999 I think, but I was off bouldering at the time because of injury... hence the long walk in the middle of nowhere!
Foolishly never went back when I was better!

JR.
chalkyjim - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Well it's still there and I can't see it going anywhere!! I was amazed at how clean it was and probably always will be.
harry spotter - on 30 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

When is volume 2 expected to hit my shelves?
Lankyman - on 30 Oct 2012
In reply to Steve Crowe:
> Check out Roova on page 600...
>
Do you recall me sending you a picture a few years ago, Steve? That was part of Great Roova. I went back in autumn 2010 and did about a dozen lines on Great and Little Roova - rock was a bit damp and I was a lot weak so only scratched the surface (and a big flap off my shin). I've no idea if anything was a FA but the place looked excellent although you wouldn't want to be there on a cold, damp day (like I was).
In reply to chalkyjim:
Took my new guide for an outing to Brimham last weekend, and I must say it made the old place look like new. Though having climbed there for the last 'few' years I have a good knowledge of the lay out. But I'm sure if I were new to this Gritstone Mecca the guide would have been invaluable.

However there was one omission from the guide at the mighty Bas West Chevin. The glorious and unmissable West Face Traverse, one of the finest traverses on Grit was not accredited to my long term and great climbing partner Samuel Cartwright AKA Lemony. Please could those that have the guide add a note to the page, and your guide will be complete. Much appreciated.
Lemony - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: I'm naturally boycotting the guidebook as a result and organising massed burning outside Harrogate wall.
Lemony - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Lemony: And no Francis, that's not a massed bumming.
Bulls Crack - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

As with the Bible itself: don't believe everything you see...eg all those blue skys!
adi3969 - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Lemony: Please accept our apologies for not creditting you with the traverse but as with lots of problems there, there wasn't enough space on the page to add all those who have claimed a line since the dawn of time, however he who shouts loudest wins so consider is yours. And what a great traverse it is. Please don't burn any books as the blaze would be far too big given the size of the work.
Lemony - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to adi3969: Fortunately my mum says I'm not allowed to play with matches - otherwise I'd be right there.

As it is I shall just carry a biro and write my name in any copies I see before returning home and crying myself to sleep - weeping for the tattered remains of my pride. Fortunately having Franny's smiling visage to look at every morning keeps the worst of the darkness at bay.
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Offwidth - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack: I saw lots of blue skies on the days I was out (why go when its raining?). Or are you implying it rains more than elsewhere (eg lancs??)
adi3969 - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Lemony: Its a shame the shot of Fran at Brimham is the back of his head with the smile clearly there but not visible. Lets hope a frontal will be present for vol 2 to bring his happiness to the masses
In reply to adi3969:

The world now expects a full frontal and a cheeky grin, It'll be like Calendar Girls meets Victor Meldrew!

Lemony - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: A deftly placed chalk bag* all that stands to to preserve your modesty.

*Maybe just need a Lapis Brush eh?
In reply to Lemony:

That would please you and your Nullification Fetish.
Will Hunt - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:
> having to buy two guides instead of one


I'm afraid you've got that arse about face, Jim. It's actually 4 guides that you'll need to buy. Two for the crag and two to be kept in pride of place on the mantlepiece.
Lemony - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: I'll fetch the docking ring.
Robin Warden - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:
Yes it's a great read, the new place of Norwood looks cool, I was up there today!
My mate done Knapper at Dovestone a few months ago, we can't understand why it only gets one star in the new guide.
chalkyjim - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Grades and stars are always subjective because they are such a personal thing
Jordan on 02 Nov 2012
Got a copy of this today. Well done to all those involved, I know alot of hard work has gone into this and it really shows. Its top quality infomation provided in such a fresh way.
Opening my copy I immediately was keen for the grit again since I ve not really climbed much on it since April. This winter is going to be a good one for yorkshire once people get their copy of this.
Nice one Robin :)

Jordan Buys
Bulls Crack - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

£25 for volume 1 - so that's £50 for all of YG? Think I'll make do qith the old guide + the internet! (I'm not grit's biggest fan!)

Lovely guide though
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Fair enough what you said and you love the guide, but;

Considering the average YG guide lasts about 10 years and is a bit like paying Green Fees then fifty quid is for nowt

£50 = £5 per year
If you do 10 routes per year that's 50p per route

Harrogate Golf club fees per year = £857.
If you play 10 rounds per year that's £85.70 per round (or £4.76 per hole).

Cheap as chips.

Offwidth - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

Well said. I'd also add its not much different in cost from buying the bouldering guide(s) plus the last definitive (despite all the new stuff included). These modern guides are really cheap for the effort involved in producing them.
chalkyjim - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

It's an absolute no brainer if you climb in the area. The time you will save at the crag is precious with the detailed pictures showing where the routes go, the crags that are in there that maybe on your doorstep but didn't know about all for the price of a couple of entry's to your local wall.

It's an investment.
Jordan on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Dont know if you been to places like Roddellar and Catalunya and bought the new guides for there, although looking lovely and costing more than this volume one they dont actually have more info than the name, grade and length. No meat on the bone as it were. Im still reading the interviews and love the list on page 355 in this YG guide....
adi3969 - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordan: Its a good list , though just the obvious ones included. The Earl seat projects are strictly to be tried ground-up as they involve lots of pebble pulling,so get them mats out.
Jordan on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to adi3969:
> (In reply to Jordan) Its a good list , though just the obvious ones included. The Earl seat projects are strictly to be tried ground-up as they involve lots of pebble pulling,so get them mats out.

Yea James and myself scraped our way down the big earl seat project a few years ago ground up. Ground up is a great style but does actually involve more wear and tear on the lower sections....
chalkyjim - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordan:

Fair point
Will Hunt - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Having spoken to a couple of people re the Earl's Seats projects I've heard the accepted rule of engagement is to be ground up. Before hearing this I put a top rope on the wall left of Womb With A View and it is VERY pebbly. Also a difficult onsight as I seem to remember that a few of the foot placements were quite blind from above. Some of the crucial pebbles were looking fragile!

It became apparent that it was out of my league so I ceased trying fairly quickly. The Yorkshire Wad Squad are free to choose whatever ethical approach they please but my personal opinion would be towards a careful top rope practice ascent. My reasoning there being that, whilst ground-up is the more ethically pure approach from a style point of view, in the interests of preserving the rock, the fewer goes that are required then the better. I also seem to remember that I thought the crux would be the last couple of moves. You get to a chicken heady crimp and then there's a fair old way either trending left or going straight up to get to the top. With that in mind, there's great potential to have lots of repeat traffic over the fragile, pebbley moves lower down before unlocking the harder moves at the top.

Just my tuppence.
chalkyjim - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Good to see these projects getting a mention and being brought back to light. Wonder how many off that list will get done this winter.
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harry spotter - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim:

Is bridestones in the 2nd volume? It's not on the list of crags included.
Jon Stewart - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to harry spotter:
> (In reply to chalkyjim)
>
> Is bridestones in the 2nd volume? It's not on the list of crags included.

Yep, all the best crags like Shipley Glen et al are in the 2nd vol ;)
Paul Clarke on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Will Hunt:
Less pebbly than it once was Will. There used to be a very helpful pebble at the top and the problem was top roped using it (just). Unfortunately it came away when the solo was attempted.

The resulting two holes in the soft ground below were pretty deep!

Paul
bogster - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to harry spotter: No Bridestones
hokkyokusei - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to harry spotter)
> [...]
>
> Yep, all the best crags like Shipley Glen et al are in the 2nd vol ;)

Please tell me that include Baildon Bank?
Jon Stewart - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to hokkyokusei:

Do you know, I've lived in Shipley since the summer and unbelievably I haven't yet made to Baildon Bank, but I hear it is indisputably the finest crag on grit. Even Jamie's photo here hasn't enticed me 5 minutes up the road from my front door.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=65342

A mate who posts on here thinks it's so brilliant he never climbs anywhere else...
1poundSOCKS - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Not true, I love Horseshoe Quarry also!
adi3969 - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to hokkyokusei: Yes the much revered Bank is definitely included with lots of new stuff to see from previously unrecorded Iain Edwards routes to several new E6's. Some say it should be the new host of a four star route now GW's back to three, votes on an stamp addressed envelope to.....:)
chalkyjim - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to adi3969:

Best crag in the world innit?
Offwidth - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Stop being silly: BB is well worth a visit.
Jon Stewart - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Offwidth: I'm sorry for not exploring my local grotty quarry to the timescales you believe are appropriate, but when it was trad season there was always somwhrre far more appalling to try first. it might have some excellent routes, but a quarry on urban west yorks is a quarry in urban west yorks. as a lover of beautiful wild places away from the dirt and grime of daily life, do you really think I'm going to enjoy that place?

But in spring when there is warmer weather and light evenings I promise I will call in and tick the classics
chalkyjim - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: I can't fault that reasoning. Take it for what it is.
Jon Stewart - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to chalkyjim: Glad you could understand it through the predictive text ("appealing" not "appalling"...where is more appalling that BB by the way? West Vale looks pretty bad in books...).
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> where is more appalling that BB by the way?

If you think BB is anything close to the worst there is then you need to get out more. Ideally on a wet day when you can do a tour of dreadful quarries without actually having to climb in any of them.

BB is actually moderately splendid.
chalkyjim - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I assumed you were pissed. Predictive text didn't even enter my head.

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