/ Yorkshire grit: the best highballs, aretes and wall climbs
- Morell's Wall, Pebble Wall (some other stuff at Almscliffe too of course, but these are the ones that make the list)
- Horror Arete, Small Smart Wall,Cleopatra
- Most of what I can at Slipstones, it's a favourite crag, been a lot
- Millstone Grip, Manson's Wall, Daz, Vim
- Poetry in Motion
- Crease Direct
- Permutation Rib, Rabbit Paw Wall, Ripper Traverse, Otley Wall
Already on the list:
- Syrett's Roof
- Red Baron, Phil's Wall, Millstone Grit (somewhat aspirational!)
- Naked Edge, I'll Bet She Does, And She Was
And if you want to join in ticking the list of great problems that are proper little climbs, give me a shout!
In reply to Jon Stewart:hope you had a good day Jon
Add Bancroft's roof at the cliff to your list. Superb highball in my opinion better than Syrett's. I'm also looking at Barlew Mow as a possibility. Have you done pebble wall?
i'll be joining you for millstone grit and phil's
naked edge is not that hard but quite scary. i dropped off just short of the top in terror.
Have a look at Lord's seat too for good stuff and hen stones has some cracking rock.
Have a look at Brimham and earl for some quality projects too e.g. whiskey galore, anchor and lots more.
Have you checked yorkshiregrit.com out. I'll be out local again properly in a couple of weeks when i get over being at work and finish decorating the house.
A few more that fit the bill:
Brimham: Ritornal, Acme Wall, Arthur, Whisky Galore, Longbow - some of the outlying stuff looks great too.
Crookrise: The Sadcocs wall problems are brilliant, as are Pixie Tits (standing) and Troll Arete at the Fairies Chest.
Earl Crag: Andy Brown's Wall and Handy Andys (top of your grade range but both great problems!)
@GPN. Great stuff, thanks. Will check'em out.
cream egg eliminate, low pebble wall, forked lightening. the pinch. the few problems on block opposite
dont remember pebble or morrels being that highball in the modern sense.
Orchrist always appealed. syrrets, bancrofts and gypsy felt particuarlly fine at almscliff.
Clingen at woodhouse scar is something Im still brimming with pride about.
so many more!
Cheers - Clingen at E25c*** that sounds worth a visit to Woodhouse Scar.
They don't all need to be highballs, they just have to be not stupid, and go up. ('Stupid' includes stuff where you jump off from a break btw).
Red Baron is extremely good.
Ron's Arete at Earl Crag.
Boris or Bust and Licence to Thrill at Little Brimham.
Another 2 "Yorkshire" venues that have the types of problems that you seek are Goldsborough Carr and Barkers Crag, Scugdale (New Dimensions at the latter is brilliant).
First Arete, Ilkley (if that's what it's called. Anyway, some trivial-looking 6b arete in the middle of some sub-buttress somewhere).
At the same venue, Gnome.
Can often be sandy/scrittly though which makes it a lot less fun - worth giving it a couple of days of dry. Also, just to the right, Grandmaster Flash is higher, harder and better - one of the few things in the area which stands up favourably against the best stuff on the other side of the A1 imo.... If nothing else, scugdale can be a good alternative for this style of climbing when it's too hot for grit.
A couple of others which spring to mind:
Ron's crack II @ Crookrise. Good height and moves.
The problem just left of Wall of Horrors Start which slaps to finish on the same jug. About font7a.
Probably already on your list - Sulky little boys.
Clingen may be a bit full on actually. Intresting little crag worth a visit maybe piton crack is worth a look instead :)
> Clingen may be a bit full on actually.
There's a comment on the database about no longer being able to lead it, so maybe worth upgrading - sounds like a full-on solo rather than highball.
You also need to check out sypeland (in the whole) it has your name all over it!
Thruscross - Yarn Spinner is good, Laughter Lines and Rising of the Sap are all great matted solos.
Some of my highball/micro route favourites over the years - in no particular order and most not too hard by today's standards.
Almscliff - Blunt Edge, South West Face, Chastity, Traditional Eliminate with the jump start.
Hetchell - Crutch, Bell End, Livia.
Little Brimham - For Queen and Country, On Her Majesty's Secret Service, Boris or Bust, Licence to Thrill.
Lords Seat - Mantel Fantastic, Bulging Wall, Solitaire.
Simon's Seat - Naked Edge
Earl Seat - Pebble Pincher, Jams to the Slaughter.
Sypeland - Caught in an Eddy, Striding Edge
Brimham - Britt, Ritornal, Rotifer, The Arch.
Rylstone - The White Doe, Emily Norton, Slip Sliding Away, The Niche, High Flying Adored.
Getting bored now. When you've ticked all these come back to me and I'll think of lots more:)
Just looked it up on YG.com. Looks like exactly the kind of thing I was after...would never have found it without the recommendation, muchos thanks.
Brilliant. I'm in for a treat this winter. The guide's fantastic btw, but with so much in there, it's great to have recommendations.
To add to the many suggestions you've had:
Check out the problems on Roman Wall at Roundhill (p.628 of the new guide); higher problems but the landings are decent. Slipstones and Brown Beck have more good stuff than you can shake a stick at. Also, The Prince at Little Almscliff (p.538) is not be missed.
Brimham-Successor state,acme wall good highballs.
Almscliff- bancrofts roof, barley mow gypsy cracking highballs.
The Gypsy and Flying Arete - Almscliffe
Seven Up and Ripper - Slipstones
Boris or Bust and Cowboy Daze - Little Brimham
Cyclops and The Scoop - Hutton Roof
Vim and Daz - Shipley
Poetry in Motion and White Doe - Rylstone
The Wobbler and Derrick - Brown Beck
All top drawer IMHO
Chastity at Almscliff is good and relatively unkown considering it's location. I found it fine with a couple of pads.
Elsewhere on the site
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more