/ Yorkshire grit: the best highballs, aretes and wall climbs

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Jon Stewart - on 10 Nov 2012
Any connoisseurs of Yorkshire grit want to help me put together a ticklist for the winter's bouldering? Up to about 7a/+ and as the title suggests, I like doing proper climbs with a pad, not scrutting around under rocks, sideways. So, Pebble Wall = in, Virgin Traverse = out, Demon Wall Roof = borderline. You get the idea. A bit fussy I know, but if I want to do any old boulder problem with a sit start and using the polished footholds of a severe as handholds (mentioning no names) I'll just go to a crag with a guidebook. Obscure/long walk-ins are a good thing as they tend to go with beautiful crags and satisfying long days (so long as they're worth it, e.g. Poetry In Motion). Sit starts and eliminates don't make the list, sorry.

Done already:

- Morell's Wall, Pebble Wall (some other stuff at Almscliffe too of course, but these are the ones that make the list)

- Horror Arete, Small Smart Wall,Cleopatra

- Most of what I can at Slipstones, it's a favourite crag, been a lot

- Millstone Grip, Manson's Wall, Daz, Vim

- Poetry in Motion

- Crease Direct

- Permutation Rib, Rabbit Paw Wall, Ripper Traverse, Otley Wall

Already on the list:

- Syrett's Roof
- Red Baron, Phil's Wall, Millstone Grit (somewhat aspirational!)
- Naked Edge, I'll Bet She Does, And She Was
- Hovis/Direct/Superdirect

And if you want to join in ticking the list of great problems that are proper little climbs, give me a shout!
Mattyk - on 10 Nov 2012

In reply to Jon Stewart:hope you had a good day Jon

Add Bancroft's roof at the cliff to your list. Superb highball in my opinion better than Syrett's. I'm also looking at Barlew Mow as a possibility. Have you done pebble wall?

i'll be joining you for millstone grit and phil's
naked edge is not that hard but quite scary. i dropped off just short of the top in terror.
Have a look at Lord's seat too for good stuff and hen stones has some cracking rock.
Have a look at Brimham and earl for some quality projects too e.g. whiskey galore, anchor and lots more.

Have you checked yorkshiregrit.com out. I'll be out local again properly in a couple of weeks when i get over being at work and finish decorating the house.
Matt

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GPN - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
A few more that fit the bill:
Brimham: Ritornal, Acme Wall, Arthur, Whisky Galore, Longbow - some of the outlying stuff looks great too.

Crookrise: The Sadcocs wall problems are brilliant, as are Pixie Tits (standing) and Troll Arete at the Fairies Chest.

Earl Crag: Andy Brown's Wall and Handy Andys (top of your grade range but both great problems!)
Jon Stewart - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Mattyk: Had a look at Crookstones/Hellifield today - apart from a nice easy arete, one problem looked good but I couldn't do it (crap landing and undergraded). Unequivocally not worth the effort. Went over to Poetry In Motion - fantastic (even with the jug full of rather cold water). That was definitely worth the effort, stunning location and problem.

@GPN. Great stuff, thanks. Will check'em out.

Ian Broome - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

caley

cream egg eliminate, low pebble wall, forked lightening. the pinch. the few problems on block opposite
Ewan Russell - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
dont remember pebble or morrels being that highball in the modern sense.
Orchrist always appealed. syrrets, bancrofts and gypsy felt particuarlly fine at almscliff.
Clingen at woodhouse scar is something Im still brimming with pride about.
Acme wall.
so many more!
Jon Stewart - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Ewan Russell:

Cheers - Clingen at E25c*** that sounds worth a visit to Woodhouse Scar.

They don't all need to be highballs, they just have to be not stupid, and go up. ('Stupid' includes stuff where you jump off from a break btw).
JimmyKay - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Red Baron is extremely good.
Pagan - on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Ron's Arete at Earl Crag.
Boris or Bust and Licence to Thrill at Little Brimham.
Tony the Blade on 10 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There's plenty of fun at Caley, have a bash at Angel's Wall - listed as a trad route but more often climbed solo http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28660

*Don't forget to crank a 'one-armer' before pulling over the lip, the dog-walkers love it ;-)
Nige M - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: If Slipstones is a favourite, then you should check out Brown Beck Crag further up the valley - similar style and height with quality problems but much quieter.

Another 2 "Yorkshire" venues that have the types of problems that you seek are Goldsborough Carr and Barkers Crag, Scugdale (New Dimensions at the latter is brilliant).
johncoxmysteriously - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

First Arete, Ilkley (if that's what it's called. Anyway, some trivial-looking 6b arete in the middle of some sub-buttress somewhere).

At the same venue, Gnome.

jcm
Ram MkiV - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Nige M:

> .... Barkers Crag, Scugdale (New Dimensions at the latter is brilliant).

Can often be sandy/scrittly though which makes it a lot less fun - worth giving it a couple of days of dry. Also, just to the right, Grandmaster Flash is higher, harder and better - one of the few things in the area which stands up favourably against the best stuff on the other side of the A1 imo.... If nothing else, scugdale can be a good alternative for this style of climbing when it's too hot for grit.

A couple of others which spring to mind:

Ron's crack II @ Crookrise. Good height and moves.

The problem just left of Wall of Horrors Start which slaps to finish on the same jug. About font7a.

Probably already on your list - Sulky little boys.

Ewan Russell - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Clingen may be a bit full on actually. Intresting little crag worth a visit maybe piton crack is worth a look instead :)
Jon Stewart - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Ewan Russell:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> Clingen may be a bit full on actually.

There's a comment on the database about no longer being able to lead it, so maybe worth upgrading - sounds like a full-on solo rather than highball.
Mattyk - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: I'd be up for clingen. i reckon with a load of(4) pads it would be fine. count me in on that one too.

You also need to check out sypeland (in the whole) it has your name all over it!
Dave Warburton - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Panorama Crag above Pateley Bridge is well worth an afternoon of folks time. A few pads, chilled out approach with some good arete and walls on good, if slightly scrittly gritstone.

Thruscross - Yarn Spinner is good, Laughter Lines and Rising of the Sap are all great matted solos.
Dave Warburton - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Warburton: Oh yeah, never got around to going back but Needle of Dreams at Scout Hut Crag is good.
Dave Musgrove - on 12 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Some of my highball/micro route favourites over the years - in no particular order and most not too hard by today's standards.

Almscliff - Blunt Edge, South West Face, Chastity, Traditional Eliminate with the jump start.

Hetchell - Crutch, Bell End, Livia.

Little Brimham - For Queen and Country, On Her Majesty's Secret Service, Boris or Bust, Licence to Thrill.

Lords Seat - Mantel Fantastic, Bulging Wall, Solitaire.

Simon's Seat - Naked Edge

Earl Seat - Pebble Pincher, Jams to the Slaughter.

Sypeland - Caught in an Eddy, Striding Edge

Brimham - Britt, Ritornal, Rotifer, The Arch.

Rylstone - The White Doe, Emily Norton, Slip Sliding Away, The Niche, High Flying Adored.


Getting bored now. When you've ticked all these come back to me and I'll think of lots more:)

Dave

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Jon Stewart - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Warburton:
> (In reply to Dave Warburton) Oh yeah, never got around to going back but Needle of Dreams at Scout Hut Crag is good.

Just looked it up on YG.com. Looks like exactly the kind of thing I was after...would never have found it without the recommendation, muchos thanks.
Jon Stewart - on 13 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Brilliant. I'm in for a treat this winter. The guide's fantastic btw, but with so much in there, it's great to have recommendations.
John Hunt - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

To add to the many suggestions you've had:

Check out the problems on Roman Wall at Roundhill (p.628 of the new guide); higher problems but the landings are decent. Slipstones and Brown Beck have more good stuff than you can shake a stick at. Also, The Prince at Little Almscliff (p.538) is not be missed.
jas wood - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Brimham-Successor state,acme wall good highballs.

Almscliff- bancrofts roof, barley mow gypsy cracking highballs.
Climbster - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Some that I've really enjoyed recently are:-

The Gypsy and Flying Arete - Almscliffe
Seven Up and Ripper - Slipstones
Boris or Bust and Cowboy Daze - Little Brimham
Cyclops and The Scoop - Hutton Roof
Vim and Daz - Shipley
Poetry in Motion and White Doe - Rylstone
The Wobbler and Derrick - Brown Beck

All top drawer IMHO

ads.ukclimbing.com
madmats - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Chastity at Almscliff is good and relatively unkown considering it's location. I found it fine with a couple of pads.

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