/ Is this safe?
I think they're called Star Dryvins or something like that. Their strength seems to vary a lot. Better than nothing, though. Where was it?
I've clipped worse - but not fallen on them.
Thanks to jon for the info.
andyb211, wtf? The OP was a reasonable question.
The American Safe Climbing Association? I'm surprised that ever got off the ground.
I wish my eyesight was as good as yours to be able to tell that it is a sleeve and nail bolt, with a low shear strength from the picture.
The OP was entirely reasonable, I'd have asked what type of bolt it was if I'd encountered it.
It was absolutely not a numpty post by the OP, not everybody has your vast experience and flawless judgement to count on.
For the record, I wouldn't trust that bolt very much either, but I have rested (very gingerly) on much worse than it (according to appearances) in the past.
is it just me or does it look as if it has a crack in the top right around the bolt hole as well?
Yeah, I thought that too...
> The American Safe Climbing Association? I'm surprised that ever got off the ground.
An active and progressive organisation that has done a huge amount to replace all the dodgy rubbish the Americans have placed over the years, including the somewhat questionable StarDrives that are illustrated.
It´s their annual congress this weekend which is why I´m posting from a motel in Las Vegas. There is more going on than you probably realise in the world of bolting!
I'd echo what Jim has said. ASCA sponsors bolt replacement strictly on a bolt for bolt basis. As far as possible the old bolts are removed and the original holes drilled out and re-used. Out of interest, take a look at some of Clint Cummins SuperTopo threads on the subject. Two I can think of detail the re-bolting of the Yosemite routes Hall of Mirrors on the Apron and another long route on Middle Cathedral - maybe Space Babble? He documents with photos the removal and replacement of each bolt. As it's Yosemite, all the drilling has to be done by hand. Next time you clip any bolts in yosemite, look out for the ASCA stamp on the hanger.
Here, look at this: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hall-of-Mirrors-rebolting-October-30-2011/t11249n.html As far as I remember, this trip report just deals with the intial/part re-bolting, ie replacing one of the bolts on each belay thus making the anchors safe for the second and final round. Given a power drill, of course, (banned in the park) they'd have been able to easily complete this in a day.
And here's the Space Babble one. Just take a look at the old bolts that he's taking out. Having belayed off these things in the past, I find the photos quite sobering.
That's a great job those guys are doing.
The approach to Hall of Mirrors looked a right gripper!
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