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Topic - Beta, Your perspective.

Lukem6 - on 15 Nov 2012
What is your perspective on beta?

The way I see it anything can be beta other than walking up to the base with your eyes closed then putting hand to an unknown rock type and climbing an unknown route without really knowing there is a route. That would be purity of on-site nearly at its most extreme.

but if even following chalk can be Beta, then in turn reading the guide book and most definitely watching someone else climb the route.

Do you log as With Beta if you walk up to a route and spot someone else on it, you've seen a move after all.

For example; I've just watched Odyssey, and I saw the whole Strawberries piece and I've seen it on two DVD's now. Does that mean in years to come when I'm ready I have already lost the "on-sight".

If so I'm never watching another climbing movie again!!

Or do you class on-sight as your first try regardless of prior info.

Recently I was debating a route with a friend, Long tall Sally. On my first day out climbing an old friend introduced me to the route on top rope... 3 years later I lead it, Damn I could've remember the moves and I'm sure I used the "top-rop" hand holds as gear placements. Is this a first lead with beta or would it be a "retro-flash" AKA just a repeat ascent.
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