/ Which Climbing Shoe?
Recently a couple of people have told me it is time to get some more "aggressive" shoes so I can actually stand on small holds with the toe rather than the shoe bending down,
Problem is I have a resnably wide (E-F) and long (10-11) foot which is also quite flat.
So I need a "low-volume" shoe which isn't too narrow. I'm struggling to find such a model. Any ideas??!!
Thanks, I'll try them!
Last time I went into a shop I tried on probably 6 pairs and the ones that fitted length and width had gaps around the top of my foot./
I have similar size foot to you (although not sure about width). The five Ten Gallileo is a fantastic all rounder in my opinion. Those of us with big feet can struggle to concentrate all the power neccesary onto small footholds without some assitance from a stiff shoe and the Gallileo has a stiffer sole for that reason. The rubber is awesome so provided they fit width wise, my recommendation would be to try them out. They will certainly cope with everything as you get better and better (although they do suck on heel hooks!)
Good to hear you are concentrating on your feet rather than just wanting to get stronger at your stage of development as a climber.
the 5-10 lace ups tend to suit narrow feet (eg. mine) but my mate wears them and he has very wide feet so I'd suggest looking at them anyway even though they seem to bulge a bit on him. As they are lace ups they are quite adjustable, part of the appeal. The 5-10 green lace ups (the Verde) are a bit more an all rounder than the 5-10 whites (V2), slightly softer sole I think. The Galileo is a velcro and will almost certainly suit wider feet (as do most velcro versions).
I also get on really well with La Sportiva Katanas. Oddly for me I use the velcro version but I'm conscious my foot is possibly a little narrow for it ideally, but it still works very well for me, particularly on hot rock trips when my feet do swell up a fair bit. You could look at the velcro and lace up versions of the Katana which do have a different fit.
Thanks for all the suggestions, loads to try on at the shop!
Six pairs really isn't that many to try on. Any self-respecting rock shoe shop should have 20+ models and should be happy to spend as long as it takes.
More specifically, the Galileo is high volume, rather than wide, so unlikely to suit you I think. Katana Laces, Vapour Lace/Velcro stand out in my mind as being low-moderate volume but not narrow. Anasazi verde that was suggested above is also a fairly strong posibillity. There are probably many othes I've forgotten.
Bear in mind with all my (and others') suggestions, that they are just that. They're a good place to start trying but don't stop trying shoes, however unlikely-looking, until you've found perfection. (A tea break after the first twenty pairs is fair game!)
evolvs are low volume shoes.
depending on how serious you want and whether or not you have morten's toe
at the lower end, bandits or (super low volume) rockstars
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