/ Which Climbing Shoe?

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Rollo - on 16 Nov 2012
I've been climbing for a few years and have been using a La Spotiva lace-up shoe (Cliff-5 http://www.urbanrock.com/cliff-5 ) which is very comfy but doesn't give much support and certaily doesn't "crimp" up my toes.

Recently a couple of people have told me it is time to get some more "aggressive" shoes so I can actually stand on small holds with the toe rather than the shoe bending down,

Problem is I have a resnably wide (E-F) and long (10-11) foot which is also quite flat.

So I need a "low-volume" shoe which isn't too narrow. I'm struggling to find such a model. Any ideas??!!
ripper - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo: the only real answer is to try on as many different ones as you can. I have pretty wide feet too and get on well with 5.10 Anasazi VCS, in .5 size down from normal street shoes. To be honest I could almost certainly go down another half size in the big toe area, if there was a bit more room for my other toes, but they perform as well as anything else I've had and I'm now on my third pair. 5.10 Galileos are supposedly slightly wider but I tried a pair once there didn't seem to be any more room for my toes.
Rollo - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to ripper:

Thanks, I'll try them!

Last time I went into a shop I tried on probably 6 pairs and the ones that fitted length and width had gaps around the top of my foot./

Frustrating!
Guy T - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo:
I have similar size foot to you (although not sure about width). The five Ten Gallileo is a fantastic all rounder in my opinion. Those of us with big feet can struggle to concentrate all the power neccesary onto small footholds without some assitance from a stiff shoe and the Gallileo has a stiffer sole for that reason. The rubber is awesome so provided they fit width wise, my recommendation would be to try them out. They will certainly cope with everything as you get better and better (although they do suck on heel hooks!)
Good to hear you are concentrating on your feet rather than just wanting to get stronger at your stage of development as a climber.
Guy
ripper - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo: The Galileo is very similar to the Anasazi VCS but a bit stiffer, which as Guy says helps with edging (but inevitably means a little less sensitivity and 'feel'). Also supposedly wider but as I said I couldn't feel any extra width the one time I tried some - maybe it depends on your particular footshape. Try some on if you can find somewhere that stocks them, but try as many other makes/models as you can too.
Skyfall - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo:

the 5-10 lace ups tend to suit narrow feet (eg. mine) but my mate wears them and he has very wide feet so I'd suggest looking at them anyway even though they seem to bulge a bit on him. As they are lace ups they are quite adjustable, part of the appeal. The 5-10 green lace ups (the Verde) are a bit more an all rounder than the 5-10 whites (V2), slightly softer sole I think. The Galileo is a velcro and will almost certainly suit wider feet (as do most velcro versions).

I also get on really well with La Sportiva Katanas. Oddly for me I use the velcro version but I'm conscious my foot is possibly a little narrow for it ideally, but it still works very well for me, particularly on hot rock trips when my feet do swell up a fair bit. You could look at the velcro and lace up versions of the Katana which do have a different fit.
LJC - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo: Try some supposedly lower volume ladies shoes.
Rollo - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo:

Thanks for all the suggestions, loads to try on at the shop!
IainWhitehouse - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo:
> (In reply to ripper)

> Last time I went into a shop I tried on probably 6 pairs and the ones that fitted length and width had gaps around the top of my foot./

Six pairs really isn't that many to try on. Any self-respecting rock shoe shop should have 20+ models and should be happy to spend as long as it takes.

More specifically, the Galileo is high volume, rather than wide, so unlikely to suit you I think. Katana Laces, Vapour Lace/Velcro stand out in my mind as being low-moderate volume but not narrow. Anasazi verde that was suggested above is also a fairly strong posibillity. There are probably many othes I've forgotten.

Bear in mind with all my (and others') suggestions, that they are just that. They're a good place to start trying but don't stop trying shoes, however unlikely-looking, until you've found perfection. (A tea break after the first twenty pairs is fair game!)

Rich D - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo: I wear 10 1/2 sazi velcroes I wear size 11 street shoes and have wide flat feet. These seem so far to be the best fit, obviously try loads and loads o
ripper - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to prinkipas: yep just like me, wide feet and i wear anasazi vcs half a size down from street shoes and love 'em. just wish they'd change the colour from shit beige...
neuromancer - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Rollo:

evolvs are low volume shoes.

depending on how serious you want and whether or not you have morten's toe

at the lower end, bandits or (super low volume) rockstars

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