/ E1 at The Roaches

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tipsy - on 16 Nov 2012
Having, rather embarrassingly, never climbed at or researched the roaches, I'm currently in a car on my way up for the weekend. If there's a break in the weather I'd like to see if I'm still capable of a gritstone E1. Can you recommend a must do E1 on the softer end? I prefer technical slabs to thuggy overhang fests.

What else is a must do between HS and E1?

Thanks in advance. Hope to get replies before I lose signal.
spidermonkey09 - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy: Valkyrie, VS off the top of my head?
Duncan Bourne - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
Safety Net would get my vote as one of the best E1's at the Roaches. Not a terribly soft touch but very varied.
Thuggy technical start followed by interesting rockover.
technical slabby middle section with an "easier-for-the-tall" crux.
straightforward protectable overhang (though I have seen some come off on this) and a crack to finish. The whole gritstone experience in one.
mark20 - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
Another vote for Safety Net, a classic micro route
Duncan Bourne - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
Dorothy's Dilema is a reasonably low in the grade E1. 5a but only protected in the lower third.
James Oswald - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to mark20:
> (In reply to tipsy)
> Another vote for Safety Net, a classic micro route

+ 1
Jon Stewart - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to mark20)
> [...]
>
> + 1

+1

That means I agree that Safety Net is the best recommendation, doesn't it?

This internet thing's great isn't it. You don't even have to learn English.
GridNorth - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy: Hawkwing on the lower tier is very good.

John
Jon Stewart - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to GridNorth:
> (In reply to tipsy) Hawkwing on the lower tier is very good.
>
> John

Bit scary maybe? I don't find it a hard E1 as I like that style, but I think it's regarded as quite high in the grade. Agree it's a great route though, one of the best E1s there.
NIGBEE on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
> >
> What else is a must do between HS and E1?

The Sloth
Sauls Crack
Valkyrie
Rubberneck (on the clouds)
Damascus Crack
Jeffcoats Buttress

Lower tier tends to be a bit green at this time of year
Jon Stewart - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Since the OP likes slabs, they'll cruise it. It's all on the feet, eh?
Coel Hellier - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:

As said, Safety Net and Hawkwing are both mid E1s and good climbs. Alternatives are Kelly's Direct (often overlooked, worthwhile), Babbacombe Lee (but can stay damp), Humdinger (but only if you've a huge reach), Dorothy's Dilemma (a bit run-out, as expected for E1 5a) and Hypothesis (looks intimidating, but there is just enough good gear). For the run-out slab merchant, Enigma Variations is stiff-E1 but "ok".

None of those are really "soft" though, if you want soft-E1 you're better heading for Hen Cloud and trying either Bulwark or Slowhand (and if you cruise them try Solid Geometry, which is top of the grade). Encouragement first pitch is nice E1 also, though the 2nd pitch is a steep jamming crack.

But, if you're in the area, and you really want the softest E1 around, and you're good on slabs, and are ok a metre or so above grear, go to Ramshaw and try Louie Groove.

(Don't, whatever you do, go anywhere near Masochism, Teck Crack, Matinee, or any of the other local sandbags.)

Jon Stewart - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Coel Hellier:

I love Bulwark and Slowhand, but think Encouragment is tough, both on account of the bold, technical P1 and thuggy hard P2. A real test of grit E1 IMO.

I think Hen Cloud is a great place to go when you know you're going well and can cope with a thorough sandbagging - those thuggy HVSs are fantastic when you're in that mood, and the bold E1/2s offer welcome relief from the (unreasonably) hard work.
charley - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy: Another vote for Louie Groove at Ramshaw (5mins from the Roaches with a quick walk-in). Can't remember what the gear was like but very soft and short. One committing feeling move to get established on the slab/groove then another move or two to the top.
Si dH - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
I was going to suggest Humdinger or Teck Crack, but Coel has already spoilt the fun :)
On a serious note though I wouldnt go anywhere near Enigma Variations - it's dangerous and I would say solid E2.
Dorothy's is also bold but fair E1. Not soft.
I think the bets solution is Hawkwing - it suits your criteria, is middling E1 (not soft, not hard), is basically safe if you muck it up (assuming you're competent), and is really good.
mark20 - on 16 Nov 2012
Dunno about that Si, the traverse on Hawkwing is pretty thin and you'd take a bit of pendulum if you fluffed it, felt top end E1 to me when I did it. Quality route though.
Jonny2vests - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to charley:

Louie Groove is a classic example of a grit E1 that tested me (a borrower) but is supposed to be soft. Auricle is another.

In fact Traveller in Time gave me less bother.

Thought Hawkwing was good, although I never quite know where to top out.
Si dH - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
It is a bit runout but theres not much to hit?
I cant think of any safe e1s at the roaches that are entirely slabby. The start and finish of safety net are quite tricky. Maybe that thing just to its right, but then I cant remember it much at all so that definitely comes with a health warning...
Si dH - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
Auricle is e2!

Cant say I could recommend louie groove as a route to do on your first day in the area. If going to ramshaw its got to be about the cracks.
JJL - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> Auricle is given e2!

Fixed that. It's the softest e2 anywhere, ever.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Duncan Bourne - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Louie Groove is an odd one I didn't find it hard at all until the final moves then I backed off it three times (over a long period) before I committed to the moves. The gear is only just below you but the moves themselves are definitely the hardest on the route. One and a half moves if tall and about two if short. Nice and balancy and a cool head will see you through.
Duncan Bourne - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:
others to do:
Central Climb HS 4a is a must do at Hen Cloud. One of the few Gritstone multi-pitches that sees off some of those who climb a grade harder. Varied and interesting.
Saul's Crack HVS (as already mentioned)
Damascus crack HS 4a with the tower finish
Pebbledash HVS 5a A good contrasting route slightly thuggy crack and delicate slab halfway.
Looking for Today HVS 5b on the Skyline is a very good under rated route
Valkyrie VS obviously
Flaky Wall Direct VS 4b a cracking little route on Ramshaw
Black and Tans Direct at HVS 5a is well worth doing with good moves on the steep to slab start.
Via Dolorosa VS anotheer multi-pitch classic
Jonny2vests - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> Auricle is e2!

Oh yeah. Duhh.

Jonny2vests - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to JJL:

Done it recently? Bits keep falling off it and I simply can't reach anything useful. I think I'm a reasonable E4 climber these days...
Dave Garnett - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to tipsy)
> It is a bit runout but theres not much to hit?
> I cant think of any safe e1s at the roaches that are entirely slabby. The start and finish of safety net are quite tricky.

The nearest I can think of is Wild Thing.

Safe and mostly slabby, but there is that start. You need to have a long reach or be reasonably strong.
LakesWinter on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett: I onsighted Safety Net, followed Hawkwing alright and couldn't touch that start all within the same couple of weeks
JJL - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:

Ah. Not for perhaps 3 years.

Has the flake pocket gone then?

I'm not really even an E2 climber and I found it pretty straight forward (although I did use - and graze - my knee!).
Stone Idol - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy: Teck Crack - well, yes. I still have the scars from 20 odd years ago. But go to Hen Cloud and have a go at Bachelors LH. Solid climbing, 5b moves, never desperate but does not let up. A route to give confidence on the extremes.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
>
>
> The nearest I can think of is Wild Thing.
>
> Safe and mostly slabby, but there is that start. You need to have a long reach or be reasonably strong.

The day I led Track of the Cat, Wings and Willow Farm and I had a right tata on the start of Wild Thing!

Chris
andi turner - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to tipsy:

Brown's Crack at Ramshaw is a good one to go at.
Michael Hood - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to andi turner: You naughty man.
Jonny2vests - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to JJL:

I remember a flake but not a pocket.

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