/ UIAA falls
It's because there ropes are more like bungees.
depends on the design of the rope, have they been made to be lightweight or heavier durable 'gym' ropes or dry or ..
for example DMM produce a range of single ropes to meet different markets (happen to have the brochure here) with following number of falls
statement 10mm - 6
concept 10mm - 7
mission 10.2mm - 8
Prodigy 9.8mm - 7
Project 10mm - 8
New breed 9.4mm - 6
all from same brand. all manufactures have a range, Beal do some in the 8 falls range
It is correct that Beal ropes tend to have higher numbers of falls recorded and it is also correct that their elongation is greater but they are designed to do this resulting in the lowest impact figures which is ideal if being used on trade or marginal protection.
If you are thinking of buying a rope try and work out the activity that you are most likely to use it for and then try and compare the most relevant statistics.
If the main use is sport or indoor climbing then I would argue that impact forces are not too critical but if you are into trad and winter routes the the fact that Beal ropes have a low impact force and almost all of them pass the edge test makes sense.
The other factor that has recently been proven to give higher falls is the type and quality of dry treatments so once again this should be looked.
As I said not a simple subject.
Get back to work Neil!!
top gun 13-14
apollo gets 16+ falls
- look on beals website for others
and the UIAA is 1.77 Fall factor at 80kg for singles
What's the edge test?
The UIAA stopped using it in 2005 but Beal feel it is still relevant and as such still test most of their ropes in this way and list on the product information if the rope passes.
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