/ Top ten climbs in the southwest !

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Jordon Fleming - on 19 Nov 2012
so what are the best climbs ? wether its lands end area, culm coast, dartmoor, ect ect. just intrested cuz createing a bit of a ticklist !!!
Jordon Fleming - on 19 Nov 2012
il start off with the best routes ive done so far

hostile witness - bench tor
wreckers slab - cornaky cliff
sacre coure - black church
doorpost - bosigran
lands end long climb - lands end
aviation - haytor
outward bound - haytor
climbers club direct - dewerstone
mayday - torbryan quarry
eyefull tower - cheesewring
Mr-Cowdrey on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
I'v climbed Aviation and Outward Bound and would agree that these are awesome route. Climbers Club Direct gets my vote too, even just for the starting moves :)
Jon Stewart - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Haven't done a huge amount, but some of the best routes I've ever done include:

- Astral Stroll - phenomenal, and gives The Moon a lesson in what's still E1
- Something at Lower Sharpnose (they're a bit samey, but in a very good way)
- Desolation Row in the Great Zawn - scary and brilliant
- Rock Dancer

Can't come up with 10 of that standard, but there's no point in putting in fillers when others will be able to suggest more classics. Mercury Direct is high on my list.
Jordon Fleming - on 19 Nov 2012
atrall stroll is something that i want to get done
Matt Smith - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
A quick think of great SW routes would include (in no particular order):
- Moonraker (Berry Head)
- Lost Horizon (Baggy Point)
- Central Groove (The Dewerstone)
- Little Brown Jug and Anvil Chorus (just for top pitch)(Bosigran)
- Elysium (Boulder Ruckle)
- Diocese (Chair Ladder)

ones I haven't done but heard are great would be Wreckers Slab and Right Angle (Gurnards Head)
Duncan Bourne - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
Saxon - classic route
Right Angle
Most of the routes on Bosigran
Jon Didymus - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

10 of the ones I've done:

Sarcophagus, VS, Chudleigh
Questor, VS, Wyndcliffe

Lightning Wall, HVS, Swanage
Malbogies, HVS, Avon

King Kong, E1, Wintour's
Coronation Street, E1, Cheddar

Sacre Coeur E2, Blackchurch
Kangaroo Wall, E2, Wintour's
Run For Home E2, Shorncliffe

Moving Target, E3, Fairy Cave

The Ivanator - on 19 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: Some I've done that haven't been mentioned yet, but are strong contenders:
Benny VS (The Promenade)
Kinky Cowboy HVS (Baggy Point)
Hell Gates HVS (Avon)
...not forgetting that Sports climbs can be pretty entertaining too, try:
Stone Cold Fever 6b+ (Cheddar)
Pregnant Pause 6a+ (Portland)
Heady Days 6b+ (Ban-y-gor)
Cheese Monkey - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
Hells Gates HVS Avon
Thane E1 Kenidjack
Commando Ridge VD Bosigran
Magical Mystery Tour 6a+ Berry Head
Pregnant Pause 6a+ Portland
Tensor II VS Swanage
Spiders Web HVS Dewerstone
Little Brown Jug VS Bosigran
Wreckers Slab VS Cornakey Cliff
Sarcophagus VS Chudleigh
andrewwightman - on 20 Nov 2012
Is Wrecker's slab Britain's favourite two star route?
The Ex-Engineer - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: FWIW I've got to 8 'must haves' for the list (of which I've climbed around 5 1/2):

Empire of the Sun f7b, Anstey's Cove
Rainbow Bridge ~f7a, Berry Head
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5, Pentire Head
Fay E4, Lower Shaprnose
Bow Wall E2, Bosigran
Coronation Street E1, Cheddar Gorge
South Face Direct VS, Chair Ladder
The Devil's Slide HS, Lundy

To get to the required '10' I would imagine the other obvious contenders would be Infinite Gravity, one of the many and various *** E3s and/or one of the classic Diff/VD/Severe routes around.
Nick Saunders on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

I reckon Chudleigh warrants inclusion of one route - Inkerman's Groove, Combat, and Black Death are all top drawer in my eyes (at differring grades).

On the sport front, at Torbryan Thread Flintstone is much better quality than Mayday (which is pretty unbalanced - one hard move for the grade then easy climbing). Reckon Empire (OTS) needs to be on the list too.

Sharpnose definately warrants one route - lots of choice and pretty subjective as mostly similar style. I really liked Break on Through, but haven't done Pacemaker yet (which looks even better)

Cornwall - where to start! Think you have a few good suggestions but Stone Boom (Pordenack) and Demo Route or Samson Arete (Sennen - both best done with a big swell and a strong sea breeze when the location of both routes provides an amazing experience!) spring to mind as warranting consideration - just don't go expecting 'standard' E2 for Samson - the crux is as safe as trad routes come, but this is reflected by the grade.......
catt on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Based on very limited SW experience, but worth commenting that Empire, Thread Flinstone and Magical Mystery tour are at the top of the UK quality scale let alone SW.
victim of mathematics - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

The 10 best routes I've done in the South West:

Lunakhod - Lower Sharpnose
Supernatural - Carn Gowla
Formula One - Lundy (now rather fallen down)
Rock Dancer - Carn Kenidjack
Doorpost - Bosigran
Leviathan - The Dewerstone
American Beauty - Lundy
Bosigran Ridge - Bosigran
South Face Direct - Chair Ladder
Right Angle - Gurnard's Head

With honorary mentions for Satan's Slip, Pegasus, Inkerman Groove and Climbers' Club Direct.
Elaine Budden - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: Agree with most of the above, would like to add kinkyboots for the first pitch.
Pagan - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Most wanted:

America
Il Duce
Darkinbad
Dream/Liberator
Antiworlds

Most enjoyed:

Lunakhod
American Beauty
Little Brown Jug
Leviathan (far better than Central Groove IMO)
The Verger

Honourable mentions:

Formula One
The Exorcist
Wreckers Slab
Boulderdash86 on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: Would have thought Kinky boots would have been here - havent done it but know of it and know friends who have done it and have loved it.
John2 - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Pagan: I thought American Beauty was a bit scrappy - nothing like as good as Satan's Slip or Fear of Faust.
stevieb - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
Nearly everything I've done at Bosigran was great, Doorpost perhaps the best. Chair Ladder can be even better, but some routes are wet or dirty, Diocese was brilliant though.
Away from these American Dream at Zawn Kellys is a brilliant single pitch E1, and Helluva Slab was a lot of fun, though probably not remotely one of the best.
Jon Stewart - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Pagan:
> (In reply to Jordon Fleming)

> Most wanted:

Eroica
Dream/Liberator
Break On Through, Fay, etc
Mastadon

>
> Most want to avoid:
>
> The Verger
>
I've never seen anything that looks like such a heap of dirty pointless terrifying choss. Maybe it's better than it looks?
DJonsight - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Rainbow Bridge needs a class of its own. In the "best of the rest":

Interrogation is better than Aviation. I also love Suspension Flake at Hound Tor which is small and perfectly formed, also Toltec Twostep.

Should be something at Chudleigh, I'd say Black Death but Inkerman is a contender.

Arapiles oh Arapiles if you like them short and sweet, Call to Arms if you like a longer adventure.

Not Just Empire is even better than Empire, Avenged could be on the list too.

I've had real fun times on Eroica, but I know I ought to man up and get on Darkinbad so I guess that's Pentire's contribution.

Kafoozalem at Bosi. And as others have said, something at Sharpnose, or maybe everything.
beardy mike - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Coronation, the crow (although I haven't finished it yet), Consolation, Stone cold Fever - Street Cheddar
Doorpost, Little Brown Jug, or maybe Anvil Chorus - Bosigran
Climber Club Direct - Dewerstone
King Kong, or Surrealist, or Puma - Wye Valley
Ffoegs Folly, Malbogies, Giants cave Buttress, Hellsgates - Avon
Moonraker - Berry Head
Lightening Wall, Heidelberg Creature, Aventura - Swanage. If its not the ruckle its not right.
victim of mathematics - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to John2:
> (In reply to Pagan) I thought American Beauty was a bit scrappy - nothing like as good as Satan's Slip or Fear of Faust.

Bet you didn't do it properly, with the original adventure approach, and the tide cutting off all hope of a dry retreat!
victim of mathematics - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to Pagan)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Eroica
> Dream/Liberator
> Break On Through, Fay, etc
> Mastadon
>
> [...]
> I've never seen anything that looks like such a heap of dirty pointless terrifying choss. Maybe it's better than it looks?

From everything I know about both the route, and you, I'm going to suggest that you ought to steer well clear of The Verger! I'm quite keen though :o
Owen W-G - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

HVS-E2, done most of below

The Conger - Swanage
Behometh - Swanage
Sacre Couer
Crimptyphon
Four for Texas/Rainbow Games
Mercury Direct
Saxon/Rock dancer
Bishops Rib
Desolation Row
Bow Wall
Sharpnose - pick a route
Lost Horizons - Baggy
Berry Head big routes
Chudleigh - I've a soft spot for Combined Ops
John2 - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics: Original adventure approach? I abseiled in on two ropes tied together. Passing the knot was disappointingly straightforward since there was a convenient slabby ledge to stand on.
sebrider - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: Getting nostalgic reading this! I used to love climbing in the SW a lot, great bouldering, good sport and great trad :)

Like many others my favourites in the SW were...Barney Rumble, Mayday, Suicide Wall, Scare Ceure, Spiders Web, Out of the Blue (plus many others at sharpnose), Matchless, Avaition and Moonraker.

Fergal - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

What is the consesus grade for the Verger, it felt harder than Sacre Couer!

suprised no mention of Heart of Darkness yet.
The Ivanator - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Quagmire:
> (In reply to victim of mathematics)
> suprised no mention of Heart of Darkness yet.

It's a bit Welsh might be why. Unless you are referring to another HoD outside Pembroke.
The Pylon King on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:

According to weather forecasters its the SW of the country!
The Ivanator - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: Skeleton Ridge on the Needles hasn't had a shout yet, not done it, but high on my "most wanted" list and a memorable route I'm sure.
Fergal - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:

Ooops heart of the Sun!
Pagan - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to John2:

> Original adventure approach?

Down the opposite side of the zawn - you need a low spring tide to cross over to the bottom of the route. Sadly the new guide describes it as 'harrowing' - it really isn't, and it turns the route into a really memorable outing. To be honest, I can't imagine anything ruining the experience (that we had) more than having a f*ck off ab rope dangling next to me all the way up.

In reply to someone else: The Verger is probably about E1/2 ish. Catching it on a dry day when it's cleanish would help - I had to excavate the middle pitch on lead! Tremendous outing though - better (and more serious) than Mousetrap.
Iain Peters - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Quagmire:
> (In reply to victim of mathematics)
>
> What is the consesus grade for the Verger, it felt harder than Sacre Couer!
>
E1 5a. Probably only 2 moves at the grade: the first off the ground and then leaving the crack (and gear) on P3. I would give it 2*. It's a strong natural line, the top (3rd) pitch is magnificently exposed and the route epitomises adventure climbing on the Culm at a relatively amenable grade. Sure, the top slab is loose and unprotected, and therefore currently unfashionable, whilst SC could almost be given a sport grade with the amount of solid, easily placed protection available.

Whilst few would argue with the quality of most of the routes already listed, there are dozens of starred routes all along the Atlantic and Culm Coasts, not included in any selected guides, and therefore left to vegetate - literally. Hopefully more people will seek out Mark Kemball's long tick list of daggered routes at:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=49

There's a load of great climbing at all grades amongst that lot!



Dave Garnett - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:

In the spirit of sending more traffic to less populated and perhaps more adventurous routes:

Potemkin (Kynance Cove): a gentle introduction to climbing on serpentine. 'Only' VS but only one runner (a jammed wire from the first ascent, when I did it)

Black Widow (Dewerstone): I thought this was a nice, well-protected overhang, although quite steep, but according to the logbook it doesn't get done much.

Cyclops Slab (Brean Down): I don't know which I enjoyed more, the overhanging (and somewhat tidal) sand chimney at the start, or the overhanging bramble cornice at the top. However, the main event is a nice slab, with few runners, over a biggish drop.

The Quaker (Sennen): Harder than Smoke On't Watter, according to my notes.

West Face Direct (Chair Ladder): Harder than the Quaker, according to my notes.

Hot Sweet and Sticky (Baggy): Quite thin and with a scary pull onto a hollow block (with your gear behind it), which I'm pretty sure isn't there any more.

I've avoided obvious horrors like Hassle, Big Business and Krapp's Last Tape as too popular.

Jack_F - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
The Spider at Chudleigh cant be left out!
Black Death at Chudleigh
Combat at Chudleigh
The Spy at Chudleigh
Gagool at Chudleigh
Sly boots McCall at Chudleigh
Tendinitis at Chudleigh
White Life at Chudleigh
Obstreperous at Chudleigh
Army Dreamers at Chudleigh
Jordon Fleming - on 20 Nov 2012
wow their are soo many routes which are comining up a few times ! think i got a decent size ticklist for the next year now ! bring on some awesome adventures :)
Steph-in-the-West on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
Doorpost - Bosi
Little Brown Jug - Bosi
Ding - Bosi
Nameless - Bosi
Ochre Slab - the Severe Bosi
Demo Route - Sennen
Africa Route - Sennen (amazed no-one's mentioned it)
Double Overhang - Sennen
Land's End Long Climb - guess where that on is!!!!
Helluva Slab - Hella Point an expedition just to find it but the climb is worth it too!!!!!
tomrainbow - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming: Crikey...where to start? Of the ones I've done...

Trad:
Mercury (E2) - Carn Gowla
Xanadu (E2) - Great Zawn
Break On Through (E4) - Sharpnose
Interrogation (E3) - Hay Tor
Captain Swing (E3) - Avon Gorge
Who Can Wait (E6) - Lundy
Eroica (with the peg for aid) (E2) - Pentire
Behemoth (HVS) - Swanage
Ahimsa (E3) - Cheddar
Milky Way (E3) - Lundy

Sport:
Empire of the Sun (7b - definitely not 7b+) - Anstey's
Thread Flintstone (7a+ - definitely not 7b) - Torbryan
Psychokiller (7c+) - Cheesewring
Halfway to Heaven (7b) - Wallsend
Gubia (7b+) - Cheddar
Just Revenge (7c+) - Anstey's
Me and my Magnum (7a) - Exile Butress
Portland Heights (7a) - Blacknor Central
Mustard Custard (7c) - Long Quarry Point
Birth Pains of New Nations (7b) - Swanage

Deep Water Solo:
Rainbow Bridge (with Cauldron) (7a+) - Berry Head
Cavewoman (6c) - Berry Head
Once a Dogger (7b+) - Long Quarry Point
The Conger (6a+) - Swanage
Pumping Dancefloor Energy (7a+) - London Bridge
Hornier Than Thou (7b+) - Lulworth
Horny Little Devil (7a) - Lulworth
Once a Swinger (7b) - Long Quarry Point
White Rhino Tea (7a) - Berry Head
Animal Magnetism (7a+) - Lulworth

Bouldering:
Nether Edge (V7) - Bovey Woods
Rippled Wall (V4) - Bonehill
The Hanging Flake (V4) - Coombeshead Tor
Green Dot Traverse (V8) - Bovey Woods
Spiderland (V7) - Bovey Woods
Slotted Wall (V7) - Bovey Woods
Dancing Queen (V7) - Saddle Tor
Easdon Arete (V7) - Easdon Tor
The Jungle Room (V8+) - Bovey Woods
Devon Sent (V10) - Bovey Woods

There's a few to be going on with. Whilst writing this list it's made me realise just how many classics I haven't done (I cheated a bit on the boulder problems list as I haven't done them all, but I have been on all of them).

ads.ukclimbing.com
JJL - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

My faves:
Sacre coeur
Bishops Rib
Pregnant pause
Hell gates
Integrity
Rock dancer (sooo much better than Saxon)
At Baggy I would have gone for Pink Void until the first pitch fell down, so Pickpocket instead
Bow wall and commando ridge
Benny!


Must get to Berry Head
chris ebbutt - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Mars - Swanage
Coranation Street - Cheddar
Zig Zag - Sennen
Sacre Couer - Black Church
Doorpost - Bosigran
Crinoid - Telegraph Hole
Moonraker - Berry Head (No Abseil)
Smaug The Dragon - Goblin Coombe
Widecombe Wall - Chinkwell Tor
Mascon - Sharpnose

DWS
Magical Mystery Tour - Berry Head
Atheist - London Bridge

MOST WANTED
Spider - Chudleigh
Hostile Witness - Bench Tor
Sacrosanct - Sanctuary Wall
Matchless - Oddwells
Astroll Stroll - Carn Gloose
Scimitar Direct - Dewerstone
Seventh Dread - Berry Head
Eagles Nest - Luckey Tor
Rhinoceros - Low Man
Journey To Ixtlan - Carn Gowla

DWS
Rainbow Bridge - Berry Head
The Conger - Swanage





rustaldo - on 21 Nov 2012
Are you including swanage for a south west ticklist? Cos then you'd have to include Portland too..

Fay at sharpnose is epic.
Another vote for sacre coure.
Id have double agent over eyefull tower.
CC direct at dewerstone was memorable.
Last exit to torquay is good too.
White rhino tea and magical mystery tour both great.

Moonraker should probably make the list, not done it myself..

I didn't think aviation was that good personally..
pasbury on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:
> (In reply to Quagmire)
> [...]
Hopefully more people will seek out Mark Kemball's long tick list of daggered routes at:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=49
>
> There's a load of great climbing at all grades amongst that lot!

There certainly is but they're all a bit snowy.

I bet you meant these lists really:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=509

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=499
Iain Peters - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to pasbury:
How did that happen?!!! Thanks.
Kafoozalem - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

I'm not going to include silly grades because I have no knowledge of them and you are unlikely to add them to your ticklist.. I am also going to stick to Devon and Cornwall which seems to be your target area. So in essence we are looking for routes which are perfect in their way....

Darkinbad the Brightdayler Sustained elegant climbing up the SW's most perfect wall
Interrogation - Better than Aviation. Both thuggy and delicate. A sunny summer evening is recommended.
Wizard of Oz (inc Rainbow Bridge) Simply the best route in UK even Steve McClure is a convert in his blog http://www.steve-mcclure.com/blog/view/rainbow_bridge/
Little Brown Jug - Every pitch is a belter and it looks harder than it is
Supernatural Amazing crack in a perfect wall in an isolated position above the Atlantic breakers.
Moonraker Shitty yes but no-one forgets their first time.
Dream-Liberator Starts with a classic bottle test of a jump onto Green Cormorant ledge. Your prize is two pitches of the best positioned climbing in the UK.
Fay 5b/c all the way sounds easy but this is a classic stamina test. Tops out on a remarkable fin of rock.
The Cull No small holds but steep all the way. Speed seems the best approach.
Empire of the Sun Well I guess we had to allow a sports climb in to the list.
Jon Stewart - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Kafoozalem: err, isn't there an e3 at bosi you forgot?
Bulls Crack - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to tomrainbow:

Eroica (with the peg for aid) (E2) - Pentire

Not an option - and hasn't really been for ages?

But brilliant.
Kafoozalem - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Ha ha Jon - Well I stuck to 10 routes and whilst Kafoozalem is perfect it doesn't have the adventure component or postion of Dream -Liberator. It was painful crossing it off my list.
Wilbur - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

Moonraker is the best hvs I've done.

Also, not a 'route' but magical mystery tour at the same crag is f*cking brilliant
whispering nic - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Jordon Fleming:
Little Brown Jug
Diocese
Bishops Rib
Sacre Coeur
Heart of the Sun
Sunny Corner Lane
Fay
Eroica
Darkinbad
Black Magic

Could easily fit another 10 on there


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