/ Mexico rock

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huwlew - on 20 Nov 2012
Just moved to Mexico and am blown away by the quality of the climbing here. Based in d.f. (Mexico City), which is a hellish megapolis/mental playground, depending on which side your bread's buttered, and struggled to find climbing initially. There are a few walls (notably Levita, a bouldering wall in trendy Roma) but within an hour or two of the centre the potential is huge.

Jilotepec is the current favourite - hard solid conglomerate with an amazing amount of potential - already over a hundred routes, mainly 6a and upwards, with many 7a to 8c, up to 50 ms long. The thing is, the amount of clean, easily accessible prime rock would be inconceivable in Europe. What the (incredibly friendly and welcoming) local climbers need are a few visitors armed with hiltis, bolts, and a few spare weeks to help the development of the area. There are literally thousands of routes in this zone alone.

If that sounds like your cup of tea, drop a line on this thread - and editors - there's a free trip in this for a bit of publicity!
kamon - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to huwlew:

Hola. I'm DF based and keen to get out on the rock more. Been on the tacos a bit of a lot too much in the past year and a bit, plus way too much work and other distractions so I am currently at heavy punter level. I haven't really tried to hook up with local climbers as I usually climb with my missus. However, have car, rack, psyche and a few topos.

So far climbed in Mexico at:
-Potrero Chico (high quality limestone sports routes up to 1000m long up in bandit-land near the US border)
-Pena de Bernal near Queretaro (huge volcanic monolith. Some easy multipitch sport, lots of bouldering)
-Parque el Chico near Pachuca (easy conglomerate spires, lots of them, loads of bouldering)
-Los Remedios in DF (scraggy grafitti'd urban sports crag with lots of sharp pockets)
-Aculco (thousands of basalt columns in a canyon. Trad crack climbing under 90 minutes drive from town)
-La Chonta (HUGE limestone cave, site of the 2010 Petzl rock trip. Almost nothing at my grade!)

I haven't been to Jilotepec or los dinamos yet and would be keen to get outside in the next few weekends. Let me know.

huwlew - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to kamon: Hola! Heading to Levita tonight for a boulder - its on Yucatan in Roma...

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