/ Any conditions anywhere???
The past two days have been mild, wet and very windy, but things are looking to slowly cool down over the next few days. My only slight concern is that the icing in the cracks is only going build with the gentle freeze/thaw cycles happening between 800 and 1000m, not great for mixed climbing but this will help the ice climbs form.
Well Polar Circus is in good shape and I've been out 3 days and done 15 routes so far (though some were toprope laps). At the moment it's -13C and 20cm of snow is coming. Though this is probably not much help for Scotland, I just wanted to gloat.
I could see us falling out...
Saw Alex Roddie's photos showing Broad Gully still full of snow (although top reported as powder on rubble) surprisingly. Rest of SCNL area looked bare.
It's not all rosy. This weekend's conundrum is where to climb and not get killed in an avalanche.
Why refer to them as mixed climbs, then in the same sentence add there is unhelpfull ice in the cracks, par the course for the Ben, grow a pair?
Yup, Broad Gully surprisingly good fun on largely very firm snow, only the top few feet in questionable condition! It's complete from just beneath the bottom of Dorsal Arete.
Absolutely nothing else in the coire was in condition though. Have a look at my blog post for more info:
It was freezing today above 950m in Strathfarrar. The turf out of the sun was semi-frozen. Not that there was any snow.
yatsugatake is at its best too. had 5 days on ice as fat as it usually is a month from now.
from afar can see the big ice routes on the NE side of kaikomagatake are in, which is probably where im going next.
scotland? the usual rhime and slush from what i hear...
> scotland? the usual rhime and slush from what i hear...
it's all in the river at the mo.
Welcome back by the way. good to hear Japan ice is in nick and you're getting on the sticks
i dont know how you guys suffer it every year. more patient men than me.
all welcome to nihon any time. you know the girls wear mini-skirts year round over here...
Aye, it's not as bad as folk make out over here and if your flexible there is stuff to be done. Winter will be here very soon
You should come over - some of the girls in Edinburgh wear short skirts all year too, but it's usually not a good thing.
Nice pictures! Looks like a great day. Was looking over at the Aonach Eagach today from sncl. Went for a bimble over the top. Lots of fresh snow, deep in places. Soft looking cornices above the gullies west of dorsal.lovely day to be out!
Thanks for the link scottie390.
Any frozen turf anywhere in the West anyone? Or if not can any locals give us an educated guess when it will be?
When it gets cold...
Not sure when this will be, for the last 3 days/nights it's consistently been milder than advertised.
Went for a wander up Sron na Lairig this morning - plenty of snow, mainly powder with a wee bit of sun-crust. Some of the exposed turf is starting to freeze, though not much, and most of the snow-covered turf is still soft.
A few photos here:
> A few photos here:
Cheers James... That's a great blog and love your comment on the foreign visitors regarding respect.
Stunning conditions in the Cairngorms for ski touring and winter climbing today... :-)
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