/ NEWS/VIDEO: 10 Year Old Ashima Cranking V13

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC News - on 21 Nov 2012
Ashima Shiraishi, 2 kbIn this amazing video we follow the then 10 year old Ashima Shiraishi's trip to Hueco Tanks, Texas in March, 2012.


The video shows her climbing Crown of Aragorn (V13) and Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12) at the age of 10.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67626

Fraser on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Saw this earlier on DPM - damned impressive. She's absolutely tiny - doesn't look like she's grown much since that 'Insiders' movie.

Strongest person ever with a 'Mo haircut' perhaps?
In reply to UKC News:

OMG, that is seriously impressive. Font 8b/8b+!
Jonny2vests - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Bonkers.
royal - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Wow, amazing to watch. Kind of emotional seeing a 10yr old so focused? she seems really grouded still?
Marcusk - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News: Bloody amazing.
full stottie on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Hmmm, well. She's young, has all her hair, is talented, precise, flexible, focussed, light, strong, determined, confident, improving all the time, female, American, got a long future in climbing ahead of her. In other words everything opposite to me, although we do have one thing in common - she's short. But damn, now she's growing taller!
Offwidth - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Some of those US problems get real highball so some here might say maybe another case of a young talent being coached to potentially lure others into dangerous territory. I'd say sod that......very well done Ashima.
Quarryboy - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:
I think Ashima is amazing but the guy in the video just came across as a complete prat. He acted as if she couldn't say what she thought about the problems herself even though she was the one actually climbing them, and then telling her to press her foot harder on Crown of Aragon when doing that move as if climbing V13 doesn't qualify you to know when and when not to press your foot harder.
remus - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Quarryboy: He is her coach, kind of makes sense that he'd help her work hard problems.
Jonny2vests - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Quarryboy:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I think Ashima is amazing but the guy in the video just came across as a complete prat.

I love irony.

mattdebenham - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:
I had to turn this off! I'm all for getting kids into climbing and I cant wait to take my son when he's old enough, but this is something else. Pushing a 10 year old girl to do things that her body isn't developed enough for is damn irresponsible and a bit sickening to watch. She is a child and strangely enough she should be out there being a child, and having a childhood, not being groomed into what her parents want her to be. They guy in the video is clearly pushing her way too hard. UKC and other websites should not be promoting this.
Nath93 - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to mattdebenham: If you had taken the time to do some background checks, you'd realise that Ashima actually wanted to go climbing, not something her parents pushed on her. I thought being a child was about being happy doing what you want carefree ? That's certainly what it was for me and if she is enjoying what she does then why not ? Good on her !
AJM - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Nath93:

Indeed - the minifilm in last years Reel Rock Tour DVD was illuminating in that regard, she comes across as very mature for her age and in addition she's a keen and psyched climber with the same sort of ideas as us older folk in terms of having a wish list - there was definitely a clip of her going through the guide with the coach and picking out the stuff she wanted to try.
maxtheclimber - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to mattdebenham:
I would be so so happy if all my daughter wanted to do was climb AND she was really good at it. She climbs because she loves climbing.
tom_in_edinburgh - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Nath93:
> (In reply to mattdebenham)That's certainly what it was for me and if she is enjoying what she does then why not ? Good on her !

The potential issue is that she may be damaging her joints by training hard enough to get to V13. There is clear medical advice that growing children should not overdo finger training. Gymnastics had similar problems when young girls could win competitions but were left injured in later life.

Quarryboy - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Quarryboy)
> [...]
>
> I love irony.

That's contrast not irony.
Jonny2vests - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Quarryboy:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> That's contrast not irony.

You called Obe Carrion, a minor US legend, a prat. That's irony.
winhill - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to mattdebenham:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I had to turn this off! I'm all for getting kids into climbing and I cant wait to take my son when he's old enough, but this is something else. Pushing a 10 year old girl to do things that her body isn't developed enough for is damn irresponsible and a bit sickening to watch. She is a child and strangely enough she should be out there being a child, and having a childhood, not being groomed into what her parents want her to be. They guy in the video is clearly pushing her way too hard. UKC and other websites should not be promoting this.

Why is the guy in the video "clearly pushing her way too hard", is doesn't seem that clear to me.

She looks to me like she is having a great childhood, why is this not having a childhood?

Thinking around cranking hard early seems to be a movable feast, the BMC medical advice used to be no international bouldering competitions under 16, yet today they're posting about the formation of a GB Junior Climbing Team to take part in international bouldering competitions.

That change is in a couple of years, I think, maybe based on evidence from the US, where, I've been told, bouldering is much bigger as a kids sport than it is over here.

Any kid who is plugged into a coaching system that can get them this far is more than likely being looked after well. The kids who might be in more danger would be ones not good enough to get into a coached scheme but still over training and trying their best.
Robert Durran - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to mattdebenham:
> She is a child and strangely enough she should be out there being a child, and having a childhood.

I think the bit where she and her friend run away from a wild boar is supposed to show her being a normal child.
Jonny2vests - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to mattdebenham:

She loves climbing and wants to climb. Sounds like she's having a brilliant childhood. I'd swap it for my (fairly average) childhood any day. She still goes to school you know! Its not like she's living out of a van.

And what makes you assume her parents are pushing her into it? You just can't perform like that unless you want it, no matter how much pushing is done.
Stanners - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
The guy in the vid is a prat. End of.
Robert Durran - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to Stanners:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> The guy in the vid is a prat. End of.

It might just be a cultural thing.

Stanners - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
hahaha :)
Blue Straggler - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to mattdebenham:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> She is a child and strangely enough she should be out there being a child, and having a childhood, not being groomed into what her parents want her to be.

I suggest that you read up on Joshua Waitzkin

Enty - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to Stanners:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> The guy in the vid is a prat. End of.

I've seen lots of American climbing vids and believe me - Obe is way down on the prat list for this one. He comes across well.

E
Robert Durran - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Stanners)
> [...]
>
> I've seen lots of American climbing vids and believe me - Obe is way down on the prat list for this one. He comes across well.

As I said, a cultural thing. Most Americans are ok really.

Can anyone provide a limk to that video of the spotter going "tight, tight, tight, TIGHT, TIGHT......."; just to put things in perespesctive (and for a really good laugh).
Jackwd - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News: Yeah, but what's she ever done on grit?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Neil Morbey - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to Jackwd:

Is she going to screw her tendons / bones crimping so hard before everything if fully formed?

Impressive and she seems happy and loved. Bloody good effort. But hope she and her dad are looking after her long term health too.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.